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Discussion Starter #1
I started to change the coolant on my 2010 Wing. I watch Fred's video and the first step is removing the lower front fairing. I think there have been some changes because
my fog lights don't come out with the lower fairing. This is interfering with removal of the lower fairing. is there a separate set of mounting bolts that hold the lights in place?
I haven't found anything in the manual about the fog lights.
 

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Shouldn't have to remove the fog lights. But it does take some work to get it in and out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I suspect I will have to remove the upper trim panel in order to have enough room to remove the lower front fairing.
 

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Sounds like you have the Honda OEM fog lights. When I had them, I was able to work the lower cowl off with them on. No need to remove any other parts unless you want to.
 

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Sounds like you have the Honda OEM fog lights. When I had them, I was able to work the lower cowl off with them on. No need to remove any other parts unless you want to.

Right!

Just pull (gently) the lower part of the black upper cowling far enough forward to get enough room, for the lower cowling to clear.
 

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The coolant drain is easy to access without removing the lower cowl. Use a 8mm socket and a 6 inch extension.
 

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The coolant drain is easy to access without removing the lower cowl. Use a 8mm socket and a 6 inch extension.
I agree but I figured he had not done it before and it might be easier to see if the cowl was out where he could see in there better. Good point though.:thumbup:
 

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Nothing to remove..

Changed mine a few months ago without removing any plastic stuff...just pulled the plug, drained and refilled. Just make sure you remove the correct plug.
 

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The coolant drain is easy to access without removing the lower cowl. Use a 8mm socket and a 6 inch extension.
:agree: Just changed mine a little over a week ago and didn't remove anything. Now the clutch fluid? that's another story!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
True...

If I were removing the cowling just to drain anti-freeze, then I would also flush the clutch hydraulic system as you would be half way there already.
Thanks for mentioning that. The plastic came off and the new coolant is in. All I have left is to install the expansion tank and the lower fairing. And one ther thing
I have to reinstall the belly pan.

Now that I have do it I don't see the need to remove the lower fairing.
 

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If you do remove the lower center cowl, the center cowl is supposed to be removed first, according to Honda. Most of us finagle the lower center cowl out from behind the center cowl and then finagle and cuss a bit to get it back under there with the layers oriented properly.

prs
 

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I got the lower cowl off last week and never could remove the upper cowl. I had all the fasteners off for the upper to come out but it just couldnt get it at the right angle to get it out. I dont want to ever try to get the lower cowl off again.

Shag
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Shag,

I am glad I wasn't able to remove the upper cowl. And as for the lower cowl I don't think it is necessary to remove it in order to drain the coolant
and I don't plan on removing it again unless its in the way. It does make it easier shine a light in there and reach in to bleed the clutch. Jobs like that make
me wish I had a lift.
 

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I got the lower cowl off last week and never could remove the upper cowl. I had all the fasteners off for the upper to come out but it just couldnt get it at the right angle to get it out. I dont want to ever try to get the lower cowl off again.

Shag
Actually it is very easy if you know the tricks. The longest task is putting 3" wide strips of low tack 3M painters tape on the rear of the front fender to prevent scratching. Also some on the lower cowl as necessary to prevent scratching.
Once that is done I can have both cowls off in under 5 minutes. Here is my trick. Get two ropes (1/8" Dia. is plenty) . Put a small loop in each. Slide each loop over a handlebar grip. Pull the ropes criss cross across the seat and tie them to the passenger hand holds to keep the front wheel straight. Make (2) (1/8" ropes about 4 feet long without loops. Remove all the plastic pins & shoulder bolts from the upper center cowl. Pull the cowl down carefully to get the top in front of the turn signal stalk (Looks like a lever). The top of the upper cowl can now be pushed forward slightly. Drop the two ropes you just made down the two openings and tie them on each side to the outer lower holes where the shoulder bolts were removed. Gently lift the center cowl until the top of the lower cowl is exposed and tie the other ends to the handlebar grips.
Now we can easily remove the lower cowl. If you have driving lights have two 12 " or shorter x 1/4" bungie cords handy. Hang the lower cowl through the two holes in the center and hook the other end to the large diamond radiator covers. You may need to add knots to the bungies to get it to hang straight :shrug:.
Remove all remaining lower cowl fasteners. The lower cowl should be hanging only by the bungies.
Remove the lowest cowl side panel rivet or screw on each side. The lower cowl can be pushed to the left a bit (as you are in the front looking at the cowl in all cases). Next the right side of the cowling needs to be pulled gently just a bit in the opposite direction for it to come out from behind its retainer (Don't go wild, just enough for the cowl to slip by or plastic can crack). Removing the lower side cowl rivets or screws aid in flexing the side cowl). You can do it in reverse but this is how I do it.
You can release the criss-cross ropes so the front end is free if you like. Unhook the bungies and lower the front cowl off over your fog/driving lights.
If you want to remove the upper cowl, untie the 1/8" ropes at the two lower holes and move the front wheel slightly for cowl removal clearance. If it hangs up on brake lines etc just insert a piece of thin cardboard and it will slip by easily. You need to do it once to find the magic position it slides out. Not hard after you do it a couple of times.
To reinstall always put bolts in stationary thread mounts first and flexible mounts last (helps prevent cross-threading). If you have trouble lining up holes a tapered drift punch or nail set tool and a forehead light work great.
Good luck. I will be removing mine in a couple days to add vent LEDs.
 

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Ropes. Pictures please.
Just ordinary 1/8" nylon rope (Actually it is braided Nylon & Polypropylene rope that has a working load of 40LBS) found in Lowe's or Home depot in the rope section. It is way overkill for strength. I purchase it in a bag containing 48 feet (Model # 65225). $3.92 + Tax for the rope in Home Depot. Also great for hanging front brake calipers for cleaning and servicing (it keeps the weight of the calipers off the brake hoses). Not rocket science. You are only tying light loads. No fancy knots :lol:. I will post a photo in a couple of days as Rocketman911 will want to grade me :bow::joke:.
 
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