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Not sure, but...

I know that on my '03, on the inside of the lid, are two "U" shaped pieces that pertain to the latch mechanism. Perhaps the one on the right needs readjusting so that it isn't pulling that side done so far. I know if you loosen the two screws holding it, the right one in your case, it can be moved so as to alter how it latches. However, I'd wait for a couple of other words of advice in case I'm wrong. NO need to remove the "U" shaped part, just loose the two screws, move it a little, retighten screws, close lid and see if things improve. If not good enough, try some more...
 

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latches

Yup, definitely check the latches.

If you or lets say a dealer ever take them off for whatever reason also make sure they do not get flipped around 180 degrees or else you will be sending a photo like this off to whoever flipped them around and tried to pretend that is how the trunk is supposed to look when shut.

Did you put a spoiler bar on lately?
 

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I agree with tfdeputydawg about letting the dealer look at it first. They should be able to help, but most folks on here just take it upon themselves to work out a "fix". If you are still not satisfied with the fit when the dealer looks at it, then there are alternatives out there. The Rubber Baby bumpers are one, running a piece of rubber hose inside the existing trunk seal is another, and there is also a company that makes an adjustable stop that is another remedy. You can also apply the fuzzy side of Velcro to trunk lid to help soften the fit and provide some additional support as well. I think you can see that there are several different "fixes and repairs" for this item. The trunk lid issue has been around as long as the 1800 has.

I just couldn't bring myself to drill 4 holes in the top of the sealing area for the lid to install the Rubber Baby Buggy Bumpers, so I opted instead to use the "wingrider" support brackets(http://wingriderproducts.com/) to help support the lid at rear and also have applied some Velcro strips along inside of trunk lid to help prevent additional chafing where the raised alignment tabs touch the trunk lid.

You can find plenty of reading material on this subject by searching for "trunk chafing" in the tech section.

Here are a couple of threads that you might find informative.

http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233193&highlight=trunk+rubbing

http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=231536&highlight=trunk+rubbing

Stay Well and Ride Safe,
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I adjusted the latch hoops/hooks (for want of a better word). Gap is almost even now. It appears that the right hand latch was pulling down more than the left. Not a big deal, just two phillips head screws adjusting the amount it extended down. The paint chaffing is bothersome and I may look at that thread to find a remedy. Amazing to see that occur on a $28K motorcycle.
 

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Same problem here but I waited way too long to address it. I used vacuum hose inserted into the trunk lid seal, aquarium tubing is very thin and collapses quickly. But after using the vacuum hose, I had to remove the latch loops and file the oblong holes slightly longer so the trunk lid would close easily again. The rubber bumpers will mash down over time as others mention so the vacuum tubing/latch fix seems the way to go, working great for me. Though it looks like I still need the velcro felt on the very back lower trunk area where the locating nubs are. You would think Honda could have come up with a fix for this on a $20,000 +/- motorcycle but decided to carry the problem over to the 2012's.
 

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I adjusted the latch hoops/hooks (for want of a better word). Gap is almost even now. It appears that the right hand latch was pulling down more than the left. Not a big deal, just two phillips head screws adjusting the amount it extended down. The paint chaffing is bothersome and I may look at that thread to find a remedy. Amazing to see that occur on a $28K motorcycle.
Toywiz, there are many things to help with the chaffing as I am sure you have read. I am cheap so I put a strip of the soft, fuzzy side of self-stick velcro along the inside edge of the lid. It works for me and has not fallen off in the last three years or so (I think). Just a thought.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
$28K ?!?!

woof

Base is $19,9xx.xx

Do some searching --- tons of info to fix chaffing issue.
Yeah, I know that's a lot of $ for a bike. The ABS model lists at $27+change. The dealer gave me retail book for my FJR and knocked a xxxx off the 2012. Still, by the time you get it out the door and pay the State it's a big chunk of money for a motorcycle.

I'm guessing there are just these issues that I'm going to have to deal with on the Wing, like having to remove the front lower cowling to change the oil and the "shelter" to get at the air cleaner. I always heard the raves about the GW that it was the finest cruising bike out there, never guessed that owning one meant attaining the same level of knowledge as a Honda assembly line mechanic. :joke:

I'm enjoying the ride and that's the main point. The Wing is fun and smooth on the road, no issue there.
 

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Toywiz ... DON'T take off the lower cowling to change the oil filter ... absolutely NO reason to do so ... and the more you remove, remount that piece of plastic ... the more chances to ruin a wire nut or the push pins.
The only time I ever remove the lower cowling i swhen I burn out a running light.
The filter is VERY easy to get at and remove/install with one of those flat filter wrenches. I've been changing the filters on my bikes since '02 without removing parts!
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Looks like you are right about getting at the oil filter. Thanks for the information.:thumbup:
 

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I adjusted the latch hoops/hooks (for want of a better word). Gap is almost even now. It appears that the right hand latch was pulling down more than the left. Not a big deal, just two phillips head screws adjusting the amount it extended down. The paint chaffing is bothersome and I may look at that thread to find a remedy. Amazing to see that occur on a $28K motorcycle.
Toywiz.Spend the $50 and get a product that does as it says. http://wingriderproducts.com/

I had my bike custom painted in Jan/10 and I wasn't about to watch the trunk chaff my new paint.So I installed the kit and no chaffing yet.The best part is,The kit is adjustable.
RBBB will squash out in time and need to be replaced,but you'll only notice this AFTER you paint is damaged,same goes for the hose tubing trick.
 

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Trunk Scuffing and Baby Bumpers

I hate to bad mouth any product so I'll just relate my experience with this product and let you draw your own conclusions:

After reading the posts, I bought the Baby Bumpers. I installed as per the directions. I aligned the template, drilled the holes using three differnt size bits so as not to stress the ABS, etc.

Problem one: They were too big. The trunk lid did not close properly. I assumed that they would compress and packed up for a weekend trip with my buddies.

Problem two: Forget the bumper that fell out because it stuck to the lid. I now have cracks from the drilled holes to various points on the trunk basin.

Problem three: I need to repair the cracks and then solve the original problem.

I think I can ABS weld the cracks and then install a foam weather strip over the entire lip where the lid and basin meet, thus avoiding replacing the trunk basin or having it professionally repaired.

Please consider my experience before buying this product.
bbc :cry:
 

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i hate to bad mouth any product so i'll just relate my experience with this product and let you draw your own conclusions:

After reading the posts, i bought the baby bumpers. I installed as per the directions. I aligned the template, drilled the holes using three differnt size bits so as not to stress the abs, etc.

Problem one: They were too big. The trunk lid did not close properly. I assumed that they would compress and packed up for a weekend trip with my buddies.

Problem two: Forget the bumper that fell out because it stuck to the lid. I now have cracks from the drilled holes to various points on the trunk basin.

Problem three: I need to repair the cracks and then solve the original problem.

I think i can abs weld the cracks and then install a foam weather strip over the entire lip where the lid and basin meet, thus avoiding replacing the trunk basin or having it professionally repaired.

Please consider my experience before buying this product.
Bbc :cry:
try using the velcro soft side strips next time............ Works perfect and no chaffing or wear on the paint/plastic!!!
 

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Try this stuff for your ABS repairs... Basically it's just liquid ABS plastic...
http://www.lowes.com/pd_22380-138-31800D_0__?productId=3151717&Ntt=oatey+abs&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Doatey%2Babs&facetInfo=

If you really want a strong repair then get some spare ABS and cut out a splint to glue to the underside of the repair area... If you use a heat gun you can form ABS (the splint) to the shape desired prior to gluing it... Once you get it to its flexible state there is about 30 seconds of work time before it gets hard again... Use a glove to prevent burning your hand while holding it in desired shape (just hold it against the area to be repaired)... I use a rag and acetone to prep the area to be glued (be careful not to get it on any other areas)...
Once it's shaped and glued, you'll find it to be stronger than it was before the damage occurred...
I have some scrap pieces from an old cowling that I glued together and I ask non believers to try breaking... No one has been successful as yet...
 
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