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OK, another post requested info about luggage racks, I gave my opinion...little that it is.

I installed a luggage rack myself ( first mistake) anyway the trunk cracked around the bolt holes...I need to repair this or replace the trunk...I would like to repair it, less cost.

So, what would be the best repair material, ABS plastic lid...what would I need to get ( hoping someone has done this) I know I'll need paint, sandpaper etc...I wondering about the ABS material.
 

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Frank, when you find out what it is going to cost to paint the lid, you will faint :shock:

I have used ABS Cement found at Home Depot to fix small parts, it seems to work good. It is the black stuff in a small can with a swab in the plumbing area for ABS Pipe.
 

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http://www.plastex.ca/
This is what I have used to fix my 1500 trunk and have used it in alot of other places its 2 part stuff 1 powder 1 part liqued
it worked for side panels to make new post to go in the grommets , even used it to fix the vaccum cleaner
 

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Greetings!

KY, you might want to keep an eye out on E-Bay. I see trike removals and salvage parts for the Gold Wing there all the time. If you don't have an unusual color code and can afford to wait a bit, you might find an outer trunk lid that you can just pop right on.
 

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If the cracks aren't to long you could put the risers on which have a larger base to cover them. Or you could get a stainless acorn nut , take the rack off and use the nut on top and a bolt through the bottom to close the holes. I seem to remember a post a while back about a bolt kit made by someone similar to what I am referring to but I can't find it now. The paint and labor will probably cost you more than a new lid. There are 3 or 4 Salvage yards in Tennessee if you want to find a used one.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks all
If I can get the right material, I will fix and paint it myself...have some friends that are good with paint....
 

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Friend of mine made the same mistake. He took the inner liner panel off the trunk lid and patched the outer layer from the inside with a fibreglass patch. He actually fibreglassed most of the interior of the outer trunk lid. He then reinstalled the rack with the washers and put in a spacer between the two layers of the trunk lid so the outer layer could not compress anymore. It ahd actually crcked when he overtightened the bolts and the two layers had compressed. Didn't have this problem with the gl 1500's as the trunk only had one thicker layer of material.

My buddy found both the cost of a new lid and the cost of color matching and painting the repaired one were too high. Fortunately unless you are actually looking for the cracks the washers hide them pretty well on his bike.

Good riding
 

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ABS Cement works very well if you prep the broken piece properly. First make sure there isn't a lot of grit in the cracks, if so blow it out with an air hose then use some PVC type Cleaner to prep the joint.

At this point you can either use fresh ABS Cement to fill the crack from the back side or try some with a little Cleaner in it to thin it down for better flow.

Depending on the length of the cracks you may be able to cover the painted side, which will have some paint damage and leak through of the ABS Cement, with one of those 1 1/4" diam chrome plated mounting washers made for spreding the load.

On the other hand if the cracks are rather long and you are lucky with some Clear Packing Tape you may be able to tape over the painted side before applying the fresh ABS Cement to the back side and flex the lid just enough to force some deep enough to fill the crack without oozing out on the painted side enough to damage the paint. Kinda tricky but it can be done sometimes with little or no black line in the paint.

In any case with ABS Cement allow a week or more for it to set up fully in a warm room. You can also add an extra layer or two to the back side for strength which will add to the time needed for it to harden properly.

If you are going to re-paint then don't worry too much about the ABS Cement seeping through from the back side to the painted side but try to keep it minimal to make the following Paint Prep easier.

Another method of repair is the Hotcha Repair Kit that was sold to repair the Vetter Fairings early on and is still available from various sources including Craig Vetter via;

http://www.craigvetter.com/pages/Online_Store/Replacement_Parts/Details.html#Anchor-Hotcha-60133

I have used this kit on various ABS parts for the past 30+ years and it is the quickest way to repair parts or make attachments to ABS. However it is kinda expensive $$$$ which is why ABS Cement is the prefered method for those on a budget.
 

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....Another method of repair is the Hotcha Repair Kit that was sold to repair the Vetter Fairings early on and is still available from various sources including Craig Vetter via;

http://www.craigvetter.com/pages/Online_Store/Replacement_Parts/Details.html#Anchor-Hotcha-60133

I have used this kit on various ABS parts for the past 30+ years and it is the quickest way to repair parts or make attachments to ABS. However it is kinda expensive $$$$ which is why ABS Cement is the prefered method for those on a budget.
Yep, having used it myself years ago on a few different Windjammer fairings, I can vouch for the effectiveness and quality of the Hotcha Repair Kit. I'm pleased it is still available.

What I would do is get you a few pieces of flat ABS scraps. I'd take the inner liner out of the trunk lid, heat a slab of the ABS scrap, and apply it to the inside of the trunk lid as it cools. You now have a piece of shaped ABS material to "glue" to the inside of the trunk lid with the Hotcha cement. That should be plenty strong.....you can even drill through it again if you want to re-mount the luggage rack.

Bottom line: The Hotcha Repair Kit rox!
 

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$500 mistake

another reason I would not have a rack on my bike
 

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when I installed my rack I was concerned about cracks... I drilled through the lid and inner lid and then removed the inner. I used 1 1/4 chrome washers with a neoprene washer under it on the lid and a neoprene washer and fender washer underneath the lid. The bolt I used was long enough to go through the inner lid for additional support. Between the two I added spacers so the fit was solid all the way through


Mark
 

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when I installed my rack I was concerned about cracks... I drilled through the lid and inner lid and then removed the inner. I used 1 1/4 chrome washers with a neoprene washer under it on the lid and a neoprene washer and fender washer underneath the lid. The bolt I used was long enough to go through the inner lid for additional support. Between the two I added spacers so the fit was solid all the way through


Mark
I did the same and there is no flex on the trunk lid with 15 pounds on the rack. Ive run over 20,000 miles with the rack loaded and no cracks. The washers between the lid and inner liner make the lid and inner linner work as one strong support base for the rack.
 

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Yeah, had the same problem, only got there differently. I had a rack on the bike when I bought it. was moving it and started losing control. Grabbed the first think I could get my hand on....the rack. Broke the trunklid at the posts where the screws held in the metal latches...$350 later, had a new trunk lid. Didnt put the rack back on....any takers, its for sale!
dave
 
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