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I had the outside trunk tail light go out & took it to dealership to get it replaced.

There are 3 nuts to remove and 1 would not loosen. I was told this is very common and the only way to get light bulb in was to break tail light lens and go at it from outside. The dealership said this happens on most 1800s.

My question is, is there anyway to get at this without breaking lens and secondly, has anyone heard of this issue with replacing burned out bulbs?

Ron
 

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My question is, is there anyway to get at this without breaking lens and secondly, has anyone heard of this issue with replacing burned out bulbs?

Ron
I read about the problem on this forum when I first bought my bike', fortunately I had no issues with mine when I changed out to the Euro lenses. If you do a search, I 'think' I recall reading where a high speed screwdriver (drill) was used along with pulling of the bulb housing which melted and freed up the screw. Do a search on the proper technique because my memory on it is vague.

here is one post about the problem but there are more.
Good luck
 

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Ron, I guess it depends on who is paying for the new taillight assembly--you or the dealer. This should be a warranty item, if a warranty exists. There is supposed to be a trap door on the bottom of the light housings (inside the trunk) that can be removed to access the bulbs. I've never been able to remove mine so I don't know whether this feature is for all year models or not. What year do you have?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Tail light iss

I have on 02
 

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I have on 02
Ron,
If you are just changing the bulbs, you can get to them by a panel under the lights inside the trunk. It snaps down and off and the bases are there and available to be removed. You may need a light to see the panel clearly.
Good luck and don't worry about removing the entire light assembly.
 

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Read about this a couple of years ago.
I went out and made sure all mine would come loose, then just slightly snugged them back.

Search the Tech Forum..This has been an ongoing problem. Maybe you can find the solution that will work for you.
 

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Take off the 2 that will come off first than use a high speed air gun or drill and turn the nut and pull the housing at the same time so the heat will melt it out of the housing or try the trap door under the light in the trunk.
 

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I read about the problem on this forum when I first bought my bike', fortunately I had no issues with mine when I changed out to the Euro lenses. If you do a search, I 'think' I recall reading where a high speed screwdriver (drill) was used along with pulling of the bulb housing which melted and freed up the screw. Do a search on the proper technique because my memory on it is vague.

here is one post about the problem but there are more.
Good luck
That is what happened to mine..I am suppose to see the dealer about getting things fixed under warranty.after the nut would not come loose put a power to it & pulled on the lens it came out but melted the housing.
 

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BEFORE you break the housing try grinding the back off the acorn nut!!
 

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BEFORE you break the housing try grinding the back off the acorn nut!!
:agree: Last thing I would do is destroy the light housing. Two bolts should still hold the light housing. You can also try to grind off the whole acorn nut with a dremel tool and see if you can grab the screw with something.
 

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There are 3 nuts to remove and 1 would not loosen. I was told this is very common and the only way to get light bulb in was to break tail light lens and go at it from outside. The dealership said this happens on most 1800s.

My question is, is there anyway to get at this without breaking lens and secondly, has anyone heard of this issue with replacing burned out bulbs?

Ron
Happened to me when I was modifying my lights, thankfully I had purchased the extended warranty and it was replaced under the warranty. Not sure how they eventually got the old light off but I know a quick burst with an air gun didn't break it free.
 

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I had the outside trunk tail light go out & took it to dealership to get it replaced.

There are 3 nuts to remove and 1 would not loosen. I was told this is very common and the only way to get light bulb in was to break tail light lens and go at it from outside. The dealership said this happens on most 1800s.

My question is, is there anyway to get at this without breaking lens and secondly, has anyone heard of this issue with replacing burned out bulbs?

Ron
This happened to mine ('07 with xtended warr) last summer when dealer was removing assy to add turnsignal function. He showed me what was happening and I suggested putting pressure on the assy to catch a thread, but as others have stated, it resulted in the threaded stud melting and pulling out of the assy. Dealer said no problem, 2 studs are enough to hold it in place. I replied with 'that's why Honda designed it with 3, because 2 will work'. They replaced the whole thing under warranty.
He does a lot of accessory business and stated he's had a few do this, but he didn't act like it was all that common. But who cares when yours is the one bollixed up.
As for just replacing bulbs, I was unaware it could be done without removing the assy, so good info there.
 

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Interesting and varied responses:roll:
My Wing must be different than some because,
1. I can not access the bulb sockets of the trunk lamps by removing the trunk box lower panel.
2. There are no trap doors on my trunk box, the lower panel is one piece!
3. There is no need to break the lens and completely ruin a lamp!
Now, to address the "frozen" nut phenomena.
Reason it happens:
1.Excessive torque and rpm of the driver used to install the nut, locks the nut on the stud and causes the stud to spin in the lamp housing thereby stripping out the housing boss and "welding" the stud to the housing when the plastic cools.
OR
2. Use of a high speed "gun" to remove the nuts can cause an instant of break away torque required to loosen the nut to exceed the strip torque of the stud into the housing mounting boss to cause the stud to spin and again "welds" it to the plastic as it cools.

Removing the nuts that will come loose and then have an assistant pull reward on the lamp as you use the high speed gun, will usually loosen the stud allowing it to unscrew from the lamp. Then one can grip the stud, with vice grips for example and unscrew the nut from the stud.
One may then, using any one of several plastic/metal "glues or "expoxys"
available secure the stud into the housing.
Now you can reuse the same lamp and attachments with no damage to the components.
 

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My 06 has the covers under the taillights that can be removed, but it's still difficult to replace the bulbs through them it takes a lot of pressure against the o ring seal. I also found it to be a real pain to replace the cover, had to do a little trimming on one of the tabs.
Jakec
 

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Dawg, the "trap doors" we talk about are on the backside of each taillight housing, inside the trunk. The trunk floor is not involved. Surely someone could post a pic of these things so you could readily see them, or just look inside your trunk with a light. You'll see them on the back side of each housing.
 

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Dawg, the "trap doors" we talk about are on the backside of each taillight housing, inside the trunk. The trunk floor is not involved. Surely someone could post a pic of these things so you could readily see them, or just look inside your trunk with a light. You'll see them on the back side of each housing.
Wow! Thanks! Love this board. Looked found the "doors". I am used to working on cars/trucks that the lamp must be removed to access the bulb sockets/bulbs. Never thought to look closer!
 

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The next trick will be to get your stubby little fingers into those doors, grasp the offending bulb, remove it, then replace with a new one without cutting your fingers. Those little doors sure look small. Good Luck!
 

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You know gang,
I guess I must have got real lucky on mine. I went to convert my existing upper taillights to brake lights and the nuts came right off. However, in the light of consistently cutting cost and materials, Honda only allows about a half inch of extra wire in each of the wiring harness's for manipulation for what ever purpose you may need. Talk about being tight wads, geezze!

Anyway, knowing the potential problem of the acorn nuts, I put a tad bit of anti-seize on them for when they need to come off in the future.
Scott
 

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"Honda only allows about a half inch of extra wire in each of the wiring harness's for manipulation for what ever purpose you may need. "

I totally agree. When I switched brake and turn signal plugs in the trunk to have the TS on the outside, I really had to work to get the plugs in place. I was almost ready to lengthen the wiring but the plug finally seated.

Also, when I was recently getting my state inspection, I watched the tech's eyes to see if he would say anything about the difference in TS location but he never looked at the trunk lights, nor my spoiler light. My lucky day, I guess.
 
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