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Discussion Starter #1
I will set the scene.

On October 16th I decided to go ground instead of air to DC, so I could attend the Goldwing Gathering in Arkansas on the 17th, 18t, 19th. and my meeings in DC on 21st, 22nd, 23rd, and 24th, then meet with Closetchef on the 25th. I got my 29 year old camping trailer out and put new tires on it and unloaded the gear, then hooked it on my new 04 bike that had 1700 miles on it Thursday night. The old trailer had not been used in 12 years. I worked all day Friday the 21st and left at 8:30 pm. I rode 692 miles and arrived at Harrison at 8:30 the next morning, Saturday.

I left the Gathering in Harrison, Arkansas Sunday morning the 19th, stopped in Murray Kentucky to see a friend who was not there, checked my oil. The oil was fine but the cover was loose. I took it back off and a grommet was missing. There was no grommet on the ground and I assumed it was left off at the dealer or factory.

Some town in Virginia had a dealer and I bought a set of grommets and installed the missin one.

I attended my 3 days of meetings in downtown DC at Dupont Circle and Friday eveing joined thousands leaving DC for a long journey in a 30 mile parlking lot.

On Saturday October 25th I stopped to say hello at Closetchefs in Hendersonville, NC and he phoned a customer to ask if he would change my oil, since I now had 4300 miles on the new bike.

I left the area north of Asheville Sunday morning and rode home, crossing Tennesse in the rain as always. I rode 1221 miles that day. The cruise control got balkier.

I led a ride the following Saturday and everyone commented on the new bike and how bright the tail lights were. They complained that I was pulling an unpainted aluminum trailer insted of a matching system as I always had.

I had a business trip to Houston the following week and the cruise control got worse.

Last weekend, I rode to the Dallas Bike show and on the way home, again because I had no time to sleep, was trying to get the cruse control to set because I kept creeping up to 90 mph and thought the big trailer would reflect a pretty good radar signal. It ws dark, but there was no mistaking that I was the only bike on I-35 pulling a 10 foot long camper. I was slowing through 80 for the umpeenth time when a Navigator passed me goinng about 85. It was dark plus 2 hours. I thought that if I could just get to Seguin, I would be on Texas 46 and it would be crooked enough to wake me up.

With one eye open, I could see the sign saying next town Seguin when I was passed by a car doing about 125. I was going 80. It was a DPS going after the Navigator. Woke me sufficiently to get home at the speed limit.

This morning, I led a small group to lunch in Mason to Coopers. (Don't waste your time). When I got there, one rider said my right trailer light was out.

I snapped the lens off and the bulb had exploded. The first I had ever seen.

When I got home, I put a new bulb in and found I had been driving with the stop lights not going on and off, either with the foot brake or hand brake. I pulleed every fuse in the bike and none were blown.

What do you think is the problem and how would you fix it?

I know there is a little technical content and will move to the tech board but there are a lot of smart readers who don't go there much and I don't either.
 

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stop lights

if the lights work without the trailer pluged in then i would venture a guess at the trailer wiring.seeing the system may be different that what it was orginally wired for or was it wired for this bike? does the trailer have running lights and do they work? from the bike green is ground,brown with a white tracer is tail lights,green with red tracer is stop lights,light blue is right turn,orange is left turn.if that is all good then i would look at the relay they can be funny ..i have the schematic if you want it but if the trailer was not wired wrong then possible moster in the socket caused it to cross and both elements were light up causing it to over heat the bulb and also ruining the relay ..ive seen the wrong bulb in the right socket if you get my meaning and that could cause all of the lights to light thus ruining the relay and the bulb.ive even seen some brand new bulbs wired wrong in side causing all of the above problems.....
 

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One of the bikes we ride with had a faulty foot brake switch which kept the brake lights on almost all the time.


Harvey
 

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trouble

now that i take the time to read what you said .it also could have been the trailer was not grounder properly . and sending the power through the tail light socket searching for ground thus causing the trouble .with out being there and having my test light .im just farting in the wind as you can see ...i love electrical challeges
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Solved!

I knew I had a spare 1157 bulb, so I replaced it. That made no difference. I unplugged the trailer. That made no difference. Neither foot or hand brake would make the brake lights go on and off.

Then I remembered the guy's comments last Saturday about my new bike having brighter taillights than the old one, so I looked at the filiment of the new 1157 bulb and sure enough, the high filiment would come on with the ignition switch.

I moved around to the other side of the bike and pulled the right lower side cover to expose the brake switch. No amount of tweeking would get the stop lights to go off.

I removed the foot brake switch bracket and, lo and behold, there was the grommet that I lost in Murray, Kentucky. It kept the striker from hitting the switch actuating shafts properly. Apparently, it had progressively worked farther between the switch striker and the switches, which is why the cruise control got progressively worse, since half of the dual switches were vor the curise interrupt and the other half is for the stop light.

The bright lights were from the stop light switch staying on and it is also why an 1157 bulb exploded. They are not meant to have both filiments stay on.

However, the stop light half was inoperative. After manipulating the foot brake stop light switch many times, I decided to give it the shock treatment. I rapped the assembly with the shank end of my number two Phillips screw driver with the switch shaft alternately depressed and not depressed as I did.

After doing this for a while, the snap action of the switch began to work again. I reassembled everything and put the bike in position to go on the Bandera Brakfast ride in the morning.

I usually make an effort to operate the brakes at night on a dark stretch of road so I can see the stop light reflection off the asphalt as I am riding. I can see both the bike stop light reflections and the trailer stop light reflection in the rear view mirrior at night. I will make sure that this practice is done at every tank full of gas from now on.

It is dangerous to not have stop lights working.
 

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here's a guess

Since the missing grommet has little to do with the story I have to think that is has something to do with the problem. So did you find the missing grommet stuck by the brake light switch or rear brake lever? :wink: :wink:
 

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Re: Solved!

Tom Finch said:
However, the stop light half was inoperative. After manipulating the foot brake stop light switch many times, I decided to give it the shock treatment. I rapped the assembly with the shank end of my number two Phillips screw driver with the switch shaft alternately depressed and not depressed as I did.

After doing this for a while, the snap action of the switch began to work again.
Maybe a little WD-40 would help that switch keep working... And it looks like you need to silicone seal those grommets on to keep them in place. :tools1:

Ride Safe !!
 

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switches

The switches down by the brake peddle have been a problem for me since about 20,000 miles I have 39,000 now. About all it takes for me is a trip down a gravel road and the cruise will start acting up and who knows if the brake lites are working at this point I stop and spray the switches off with the small bottle of WD-40 I carry with me and they will work again for a while.
 

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That switch on the brake can be adjusted. My dealer told me it was a faulty switch, but I fiddled with it and finally got it set correctly. Some 20,000 miles later it is still working just fine. I think (if I can remember correctly, and that isn't a sure thing anymore) that there are one or two Phillips head screws down there that will allow a small amount of adjustment. You need to adjust it so that the switch is not depressed when the pedal is in the normal (non-depressed) state. Hope this helps someone.
 

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U solve it-

I had the same problem with the cruise not working. It is just like the cruise on a car if the brake lights are activated the cruise will not activate. The problem on mine was the switch by your right heel behind the side cover you take off to check the oil. It sometimes sticks and you need to check it to be sure it is hitting square on both micro switches that are together. Sometimes the metal tab gets bent and don't make contact on both switches.

Best of luck, Don [/url]
 

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Discussion Starter #12
How many foot brake switch failures? Probably a lot.

These switches appear to be well built and have snap ring installed seales over the operating plunger. Spraying the switch will do no good, unless you lift off the snap ring and pull off the boot.

I did just that, this morning, and used liquid wrench, which is Teflon in a solution.

AT this point, the switches are working, but time will tell. The switch acts like it has a high resistance arc path inside, and probably that is what it is. Teflon should be a good insulator. In my case, the stoplight switch failed in the on (relaxed) position. No amount of depressing the switch would make it snap over.

Apparently, this is going to be a troublesome switch, although my 01 had 90,000 on it when I had the crash, and up until that time, it had no cruise or foot brake light issues.

When I stopped at the dealers on Friday, they showed me a foot brake switch they had just removed and robbed a new switch that had been ordered for still another bike with a failed switch.
 
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