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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Help , when looking at my CSC from the rear the right side is higher then the left , ( 1/2 in. higher ) each rear tire is 20lb . What should I look for .
THANKS
 

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Here is a site that has the install instructions that u can down load and read to see how it should be installed.

http://www.californiasidecar.com/service.htm

Hope this helps

CSC and my installer recommended 28lbs, just wondering why u are running 20lbs in the rear tires?
 

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I'm no expert but I would check the body mounting tabs. Check to see if they are adjustable, if they are not then you will probably have to use shims. Look at the pics in George Lewis post on the CSC and you may be able to tell. I think I see a pair of top mounts which are adjustable (sloted angle plates near top). Then check at the rear for other mounting tabs. Measure height from floor to fender on each side at the front of your fenders then do the same on each side at the rear and compare these two sets of dimensions in pairs to see if your 1/2 inch difference is uniform throughout length of body or just at the rear then adjust accordingly. I just adjusted my trike (Hannigan) and the heights at front of fenders were the same but at the rear they differed by 1/4 inch so I had to shim the low side to bring it up 1/4 inch (now level). Since you don't have separate side shocks to consider (ie. shock preload) it is probably the body mounts IMHO. I hope this helps. Doc


The post by George L is CSC Install part II (good pics)
 

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Help , when looking at my CSC from the rear the right side is higher then the left , ( 1/2 in. higher ) each rear tire is 20lb . What should I look for .
THANKS
First how many miles on your Trike now? All suspensions do settle after a while so this is common for most kits. Was it off when you first got it?

The Cobra has two drop links that we use to adjust ride height and create level during the install. They are pictured quite well in George Lewis's pictures from Ken Schrieber's shop a few threads over. If the level of the Trike HAS changed it could be as I mentioned just a settling effect and although not easy can be brought back to level by adjusting the Drop Links. The Jam nuts on the links (top and bottom) should have been blue loc-tited. If not they will loosen and the adjutment can change.

Is the whole Trike unlevel? What I mean is, is the tour pak also tilted or just the body? 1/2" is a fair amount and although most Trike bodies are shimmed to look level and straight it may require just changing the shims if any were used. Example: take out all shims on the high side and put more on the low side to bring that side up and level looking.

P.S. 26 to 28 lbs in your rear tires would be better.............
 

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The rear tires on a trike are made to carry 3500 pounds each. The trike might weigh in at 1100 to 1200 pounds.
If you put in 28 to 30 as some have suggested , the tires after a few thousand miles will become badly worn in the center of the tread. Been there and done that. I run 20 pounds in the rears and I get a better ride, a much better wear pattern and long life. They are after all radial tires. I also usually have a passenger and haul an Escapade trailer as well. Can't imagine why anyone would run 28 to 30 PSI on a trike. I might note here that the Motor Trike uses 235 size tires which are wider than most I have seen.
 

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Help , when looking at my CSC from the rear the right side is higher then the left , ( 1/2 in. higher ) each rear tire is 20lb . What should I look for .
THANKS

My comments were based on the assumption that your comments above referred to the right side of the body (CSC conversion unit) and not the tour pak but you can also look at the relation of both sides of the tour pak to the body to see if some difference appears there also (again check both front and rear of the tour pak in relation to the body).

In my case the front of the pak was the same on both sides but differed a little at the rear of the pak thus confirming my conclusions (body not level).

Lots of luck in finding your problem. If I can be of any further help PM me. Doc
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
( CSC and my installer recommended 28lbs )


My installer said 20lbs . Iwill try 28lbs and see how it rides . Rides great now .
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My comments were based on the assumption that your comments above referred to the right side of the body (CSC conversion unit) and not the tour pak but you can also look at the relation of both sides of the tour pak to the body to see if some difference appears there also (again check both front and rear of the tour pak in relation to the body).

Your assumption is correct .
 

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Catfishman, I see you are close to Murray, Ky. I'm going to ride up to the Hannigan Factory at Murray as soon as I get back to Bama in March. I'm going up to see their operation. Maybe we could hook up for coffee or something. It's a 278 mi. trip one way for me. If your interested I'll PM you when I get back. Ride safe. Doc
 

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My comments were based on the assumption that your comments above referred to the right side of the body (CSC conversion unit) and not the tour pak but you can also look at the relation of both sides of the tour pak to the body to see if some difference appears there also (again check both front and rear of the tour pak in relation to the body).

Your assumption is correct .
If the body appears to be uneven in relation to the tour pak it is a body shimming problem that would have been there from the time you picked it up. If the Trike has settled to one side or the other it is a Drop Link or suspension settling issue. The position of the front of the body on both sides is determined by sidecover fit. There is some room to play with but on Goldwing sidecovers not much or they will not fit properly. You make the Trike look level from behind only.........in some cases we have actually shimmed the tour pak also.

Find a very level place to park your Trike. Stand way back and look at the rear of the Trike. The Tour Pak should look straight in relation to the handle bars / dash area (which should be as straight as possible.) Drop your eye down to the Trike body. If it leans it needs shimming or unshimming as the case may be. Don't look at the ground in relation to the bottom edge of the Trike body.

It is true that the rear tires are run a bit under inflated and are designed to carry much more weight than it does as a Trike tire but it is sidewall strength you're trying to maintain. My first Trike a Motor Trike Spyder had 77,000 miles on it when I sold it and the rears looked like new. The only time I have ever seen abnornal rear tire wear was from under inflating. 30 is too high I think 24 to 26 is about perfect depending on passenger weight, trailer, what's packed in your trunk etc. If you prefer a lower pressure then a lower pressure it is.
 

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Gary, why would you shim the tour pak assuming it was properly mounted from the factory? Just curious or was it your point that the tour pak mounting frame top plate surface was not perpendicular to the center plane of the bike resulting in the tour pak not being level when bike is perpendicular to the horizontal plane (ie. level floor)?
 

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Doc1, I toured the Hannigan plant a couple of years ago. It is a nice plant with good folks. The owners were gone on a rally sales trip. If you are not "locked in" on a date, I suggest you call ahead and make sure the owners will be on site. They are great folks I hear, and I am sorry I missed them. Their very nice son-in-law showed me around and I rode a demo. When I win the lottery I am gonna get me a tri-car.....please overlook the stupid look on my face, I was not ready when they took the pic.




 

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Gary, why would you shim the tour pak assuming it was properly mounted from the factory? Just curious or was it your point that the tour pak mounting frame top plate surface was not perpendicular to the center plane of the bike resulting in the tour pak not being level when bike is perpendicular to the horizontal plane (ie. level floor)?

Doc all Trikes are not created equal. All bikes are not created equal either. For some odd reason there are subtle and not so subtle dimensional differences. Very rarely do any two line up the same way. Main reason is the fiberglas bodies warp during the curing process. Some are seamed together and are hand layed which creates variations. Even wheel wells can be off and this is not just one manufacturer. This is just the way it is, not like a stamped steel panel for a car door etc.

The tour pak shim trick comes to play when everything else is as close and lookin' good as possible. Us Trike guys (and I'm with all of you) are very, very did I say very picky and if we as an installer don't do everything in our power to make them as perfect as we can we get tagged bad installers. A simple thin or thick washer or two on either side of a tour pak can mean the difference between a happy customer and unhappy customer. I come from a background of building showcars and have many trophies for my building and paint expertise but sometimes just the slightest thing will be the only thing anyone notices.

BTW if the front wheel is not straight when looking at the rear end of a Trike it will make it look unlevel.
 

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George Lewis said:
please overlook the stupid look on my face, I was not ready when they took the pic.
But George that is your normal face :shock:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks to all , I will put on my heating gear and take it to my installer . My wife's rear end looks great , on her trike I mean .lol
 

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Leave me alone, Patrick.....I was born ugly.....:eek:4:
 

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Gary, as an old Tool and Die Maker (many yrs ago) I always measure and check the items on the bike then move to the conversion so that I can determine the culprit. As you say many of us are very particular and want things the way we want them. I think Catfishman has the right idea by taking the trike back to the Dealer. However the suggestions I gave of taking the four measurements will give an idea of whether the body may be warped or twisted as mine was. If an arm or frame member is welded it might be sightly off and if the mounting point is at some distance from the weld it can cause the mounting point to be considerably off be it from heat warpage or loose jig. In my instance I do not blame the Dealer as I'm sure this was the case. Cheers :thumbup:
 

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