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I brought a new 2008 Goldwing home yesterday and noticed that the idle seems unstable. When you stop at a stop sign, for example, and the engine drops to idle, the rpm increases an deceases as if it were hunting for the proper setting. I will bring it to the attention of the dealer when they do the 600 mile service, but I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this.

Also, should an iPod cable been supplied? I didn't get one.
 

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Your ECM is not yet programmed cprrectly. Its EZ to remedy. With the bike fully cold and parked in a safe outdoor area and on center stand in neutral, keep your hands OFF of the throttle and start the engine. Let it idle until it reaches full operating temperature without any disturbance to throttle. Once the temp needle hits its steady spot on the gague let the engine continue to idle for several minutes to be sure it is in normal range for temp and then turn the ignition switch off. Now it will start and idle smoothly without tht hetrodyne.

prs
 

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The thing that Pigeon Roost suggests evidently works on some bikes but not all of them, mine being one that still idles wildly. If I pull up to a stop, my idle is all over the map.

I took it to the dealer and they said a "rolling idle" is normal and could not be fixed.

You may have to live with it if resetting the ECM does not help.

See this thread for more info:

http://208.43.95.107/forums/showthread.php?t=192123&highlight=idle
 

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Reseting the ECM did nothing for mine. I don't see it on the tach, just hear it.

The dealer owes you an AUX cable. They are shipped in the owner's manual.
 

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My 08 surged some for awhile and then went away. I think it was gone within 4 months.
 

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My 09 does it...
 

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My 08 did it at first. Ecm resets seem to help. Now its got over 11,000 miles on it and its settled down, been sitting since october, back problems and can't ride right now, besides to damn cold anyway.:-(
 

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unstable idle

My '08 idles at 2000 rpm cold in neutral. Idles down to 850 when warms up. When I put in gear it goes up to 1200 rpm. put in neutral goes back to 850. Does any one else have this problem. George
 

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You forgot a step -- you have to wait for the bike's fans to kick on and then off. Once that is done, wait about 30 sec's and THEN shut the bike off.

If the fans do not cut on and off, then all you are doing is warming up your bike.
 

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ECM reset has to fix this, if not the dump the bike on the dealers door and tell him not to call you until it's right. It's worth noting that in some cases you might need to do the ECM reset a couple of times for it to be effective and the point about fans kicking in should also be heeded.
 

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My 05 does it, but it doesn't seem to be a safety issue, dependability issue, or performance issue, so I don't worry about it.
 

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You forgot a step -- you have to wait for the bike's fans to kick on and then off. Once that is done, wait about 30 sec's and THEN shut the bike off.

If the fans do not cut on and off, then all you are doing is warming up your bike.

No, I did not forget a thing. Waiting for the fans to come on is folly!

prs
 

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miss-post --- delete please
 

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George,

My 08 does the EXACT same thing as the examples you gave...:shrug:
 

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No, I did not forget a thing. Waiting for the fans to come on is folly!prs
Obviously, you know more than I do.

This has come up numerous times with the same end.

To be fair, why do you feel that the fans kicking on is irrelevant?


btw -- this is directly out of the service manual...

IDLE SPEED
• Make sure that the charging system is in good condition before proceeding.
1. Stop the engine and allow it to cool until the coolant temperature gauge needle moves below the “C” line.
2. Start the engine and let it idle. When the radiator cooling fan comes on, stop the engine and restart it. After 10 – 20 seconds, check the idle speed.
• If the idle speed is within the specification, the system is OK.

IDLE SPEED: 700 +/- 70 rpm

• If the idle speed is higher than the specification, GO TO STEP 3.
 

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In most cases it is not the Idle, it just sounds like it.
You will not see it on the tach, you just hear it. resetting
the ecm does not change it. It is the whine of the alternator drive
that you hear when coming to a stop, it takes a few seconds for
it to stabilize after you stop. It will not make this noise if you start the bike cold or warm, when parked, you can blip the throttle all you want and the noise will not be there. Take it for a ride and after it warms up, it will be there with a surging whine, when you come to a stop. Have heard this on 07 and 08's.
 

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Naw -- that's a different issue.

When mine acts up - it is VERY visible on the tach and it's not a whine. The motor is speeding up and slowing down by itself.
 

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DJ; Excellent question!

It is not that the instruction you prefer is wrong, it is just wasteful of your time and gasoline! The procedure I described for the reset of the ECM will work just fine. I believe the procedure for initializing the ECM is outlined in a service bullitin that is avaialable on this HDL web site if you scroll down through the choices (you may have to get permission from a moderator to view that section) The bulliten is the one that has to do with the over heating issue where the ECMs of '01's and '02's were replaced with the dummied-down units from the "improvement campaign". The section of the manual you quote deals with a slightly different problem (over rev or under rev at idle), but the same procedure - a reset of the low speed ECM data). The method you cite will work fine, and I suppose Honda included the fans turning on as a method to assure that their time conscious mechanics did no stop the procedure too soon. (Speculating as to why Ma Honda specifies certain things can be an exercise in futility -- why remove the front center cowl to to change the oil filter, why remove the mirrors to change the wind screen, etc, etc, etc,,,,!)

But, in reality the fans have nothing directly to do with the reset. Once the coolant temp sensor hits a pre-determined level the data collection stops. When the igniton switch is then turned off, the data is stored. The problem with waiting for the fans to kick on is that you can be waiting a VERY long time. In cool weather you could be waiting for over 20 minutes. That's nuts! Watch the temp gague. It will rise to its "plateau" just below mid range and stay there. Let it reach that point and then give it another couple or few minutes to be sure you are at operating temp and then switch off the ignition to store the values. This takes less then 10 minutes depending upon ambient temps and you get the same end result -- a nice smooth idle with no hetrodyne (hunting). Irrelevant may not be the correct term for waiting for the fans to come on, maybe unnecessary fits better.

In the past, when this issue came up, many people insisted that you had to dump the stored data in the ECU by disonnecting the battery and shorting the disonnected cable ends prior to re-setting. Some people calim it will re-set all by itself from just driving (it won't). I have seen others suggest turning on the high beams and other accessories to load the motor a bit through the alternator in hope of geting better data stroed - I dunno about that one.

Thanks for bringing up section 5-75 of the manual, I had not read those sections previouisly. But, no need to give me that "know more" routine; we are all in this together.

prs

Obviously, you know more than I do.

This has come up numerous times with the same end.

To be fair, why do you feel that the fans kicking on is irrelevant?


btw -- this is directly out of the service manual...

IDLE SPEED
• Make sure that the charging system is in good condition before proceeding.
1. Stop the engine and allow it to cool until the coolant temperature gauge needle moves below the “C” line.
2. Start the engine and let it idle. When the radiator cooling fan comes on, stop the engine and restart it. After 10 – 20 seconds, check the idle speed.
• If the idle speed is within the specification, the system is OK.

IDLE SPEED: 700 +/- 70 rpm

• If the idle speed is higher than the specification, GO TO STEP 3.
 
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