I take it you have checked figures and know that some inlets require adjustment ?? (If not - check first)
Valve adjustment
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I wonder where Chuck learned that trick.I used a short screwdriver and a hemostat instead of the custom tool for relaxing the cam chain. Worked great. Screwdriver to release the tension and the hemostat to lock the screwdriver in place. My buddy Chuck told me about this and it worked great.
Ok, for the DYI'ers here's a couple of tools I made myself. The cam chain tensioner tool works particularly well because unlike the expensive ones it stays in place under the left cylinder head.
So, I cut these shapes out of some sheet steel about 1.4mm thick:
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I had to file the tip down to about 1.0mm to fit the screw in the tensioner. All you need to do is insert into the screw slot, rotate clockwise against spring pressure as far as it goes then ease it back while pushing in until the wider part of the tool engages into the slots of the tensioner housing. Spring tension holds it there.
This is the right side:
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This is the left side - yes some oil will dribble out:
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This is a tool I made for adjusting the exhaust valves. I got sick of messing about with a small adjustable wrench (a shifting spanner in UK/Aussie).
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It's similar to the Honda one or any others you can buy online but I made it compact enough to suit my dirt bikes as well.
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The square on the adjuster is 3mm and the lock nut takes an 8mm wrench. The adjuster thread pitch is 0.5mm so you can mark the tool (at 158°) to get close the correct clearance in one move.
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I'll be following up with a little caution about setting the exhaust valve clearances. Stand by...
So, I cut these shapes out of some sheet steel about 1.4mm thick:
I had to file the tip down to about 1.0mm to fit the screw in the tensioner. All you need to do is insert into the screw slot, rotate clockwise against spring pressure as far as it goes then ease it back while pushing in until the wider part of the tool engages into the slots of the tensioner housing. Spring tension holds it there.
This is the right side:
This is the left side - yes some oil will dribble out:
This is a tool I made for adjusting the exhaust valves. I got sick of messing about with a small adjustable wrench (a shifting spanner in UK/Aussie).
It's similar to the Honda one or any others you can buy online but I made it compact enough to suit my dirt bikes as well.
The square on the adjuster is 3mm and the lock nut takes an 8mm wrench. The adjuster thread pitch is 0.5mm so you can mark the tool (at 158°) to get close the correct clearance in one move.
I'll be following up with a little caution about setting the exhaust valve clearances. Stand by...
I had some difficulty when adjusting the exhaust valves on my 2019.
The 2019 service manual says you can measure the clearance at either the roller end (between the roller and cam lobe) or you can measure it at the valve stem (between the valve stem and the tip of the adjuster screw). It gives clearances for both methods. The clearance at the valve stem is double that at the roller because there's a 1:2 ratio in the rocker arm. So it should be more accurate to measure at the valve stem, obviously.
But I just couldn't get a consistent result measuring at the valve stem (and this isn't my first rodeo). When I got to what I thought was a nice drag on an 8 thou feeler gauge, I could tell immediately that the rocker was way too loose. Plus the carefully calculated mark on my adjuster tool (see above) just didn't come close to working.
After much re-checking and comparing with roller end clearance, I discovered the cause...
The end of the valve stem (red arrow) is actually about 5 thou below the surrounding valve spring retainer (green arrow).
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(The wider disk looking bit is actually part of the adjuster. You have to measure behind that.)
Normally, the valve stem is proud of the retainer. Because if this issue, there is no way to use a conventional feeler gauge between the valve stem and the adjuster. I ended up setting the valves by measuring at the roller and all is good but I wasted a good hour or two figuring it out.
So, just letting you know that if you can't get a good solid and consistent result at the valve end of the rocker, then do it at the roller end.
The 2019 service manual says you can measure the clearance at either the roller end (between the roller and cam lobe) or you can measure it at the valve stem (between the valve stem and the tip of the adjuster screw). It gives clearances for both methods. The clearance at the valve stem is double that at the roller because there's a 1:2 ratio in the rocker arm. So it should be more accurate to measure at the valve stem, obviously.
But I just couldn't get a consistent result measuring at the valve stem (and this isn't my first rodeo). When I got to what I thought was a nice drag on an 8 thou feeler gauge, I could tell immediately that the rocker was way too loose. Plus the carefully calculated mark on my adjuster tool (see above) just didn't come close to working.
After much re-checking and comparing with roller end clearance, I discovered the cause...
The end of the valve stem (red arrow) is actually about 5 thou below the surrounding valve spring retainer (green arrow).
(The wider disk looking bit is actually part of the adjuster. You have to measure behind that.)
Normally, the valve stem is proud of the retainer. Because if this issue, there is no way to use a conventional feeler gauge between the valve stem and the adjuster. I ended up setting the valves by measuring at the roller and all is good but I wasted a good hour or two figuring it out.
So, just letting you know that if you can't get a good solid and consistent result at the valve end of the rocker, then do it at the roller end.
Your videos did the trick Fred...I wonder where Chuck learned that trick.
. Thanks for those!
I can't really tell you how deep the slot is in the tensioner screw or the slots in the body. I took these photos with an endoscope camera which might give you an idea what it looks like after removing the sealing bolt and washer...
There is no spring visible, that is inside the tensioner. To slacken the cam chain, you have to rotate that internal screw clockwise about half a turn against the spring. If you let go of your screwdriver, the screw will simply rotate itself back to the original position. So you need to lock the tool into a pair of those outer slots. It turns quite easy. Just insert the screwdriver end of the tool into the screw but just enough that the wider part sits above the outer slots, turn all the way clockwise and then allow it to spring back just enough until the wider part of the tool aligns with a pair of slots and push it in. The tool locks into the outer slots and the internal spring pressure holds it firmly in place. The internal screw head is deeper than usual so the tool can move in deeper to engage the outer slots. Hard to describe in words.
Here are the dimensions of the tools I made...
All measurements are in millimetres. You can convert to old school imperial yourself! Best to make two tools because then you can do the valves on both sides at the same time. If you can find some steel 1mm thick, that would be perfect and save some filing.
By the way, if you buy a new cam chain tensioner for a Honda dirtbike, it comes with a tool very similar (but different dimensions) to what I made. I don't know why they don't do the same for the Goldwing. I guess they want you to spend $100 each for something more cumbersome.
As for shims, I haven't bought any. A mechanic mate of mine has full sets of shims which he has offered for my use. But so far, my intake clearances have been in spec. But he said while the full sets are expensive, you can buy aftermarket shims in packs of ten (of one size) cheaper than a single one from Honda.
Hope that makes all sense and is of some help.
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