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Discussion Starter #1
I've asked this on one of the other forums. Was wondering if any different idea's over here.

I'm still breaking my new 2018 Tour DCT in. Got 830 miles on it now or so.

I have recently noticed that the walking mode does not want to go forward when it is cold or rather setting over night. It will back up without any issue but not forward. Once warmed up a little it goes both forward and back. Also it will go forward if it has been sitting in the parking lot over the day at work. I work 12 hour shifts so the time it is sitting is the same , the difference is it is a bit cooler at night vs day.

I re-did the DCT calibration but no change in behavior.

I think tomorrow I will try to remember to try to rev the engine a bit to get all the oil moving around before trying to put it into forward walking mode to see if it makes a difference.

Any idea why it does this or how to correct it ?

Addendum:
I tried to rev the engine as mention with no measureable difference. I also added just over a cup of oil, bringing it back to full. It made a very slight difference but not enough to actually make it work when cold.

Strange thing is it works flawlessly when the engine has been warmed a bit or in the evening after work after sitting in sun for 12 hours.

I will change the oil this week and plan to put a slightly heavier oil in to see if it makes a difference.

Suggestions?
 

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On my 2018 DCT, when cold, it may take 3-4 seconds before the ECU computer starts to adjust idle speed until the walk mode engages. When cold, my reverse walk mode seems to kick in a bit quicker and backs up faster than the forward mode. Have you tried holding the shift paddle down longer periods of time and waited for the ECU to adjust engine speed, thereby engaging the walk mode?

Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
On my 2018 DCT, when cold, it may take 3-4 seconds before the ECU computer starts to adjust idle speed until the walk mode engages. When cold, my reverse walk mode seems to kick in a bit quicker and backs up faster than the forward mode. Have you tried holding the shift paddle down longer periods of time and waited for the ECU to adjust engine speed, thereby engaging the walk mode?

Just a thought.
Yes at best it may roll a few inches on a flat surface.

No movement with any incline at all. I feel it engaging and the idle does go up a little but never over 1100 rpms. It will idle up then back down. And as stated reverse is flawless.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My normal routine in the morning is to start the bike and let it run minute while I put on my jacket, and helmet. Then saddle up, kickstand up. and drop it from Neutral to walking/creep mode then back up out of garage.
As I understand the Forward/ Reverse are controlled by the 1/3/5/&7 gear clutch for forward I think then the Reverse is controlled by the 2/4/6 clutch.

So I am wondering if maybe going from Starting motor in Neutral to Dropping it into 1st gear in Tour mode, then back to Neutral and then Walking mode rather than straight Neutral to walking mode.

I wonder if that would make a difference.??????
 

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I consider the "walking forward" redundant as 99.99% of the time I would just put in "D" and ride out of my driveway.
So next time you are taking the bike to the dealer for other reasons I would mention this problem.
Definitely I wouldn't change oil for this issue.
 

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I just started my bike after it has been in the garage since last night. Started and immediately put it in Walking mode and backed up with no more than a 2 second delay. Then went forward with no more than 2 second delay.
 

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I've asked this on one of the other forums. Was wondering if any different idea's over here.

I'm still breaking my new 2018 Tour DCT in. Got 830 miles on it now or so.

I have recently noticed that the walking mode does not want to go forward when it is cold or rather setting over night. It will back up without any issue but not forward. Once warmed up a little it goes both forward and back. Also it will go forward if it has been sitting in the parking lot over the day at work. I work 12 hour shifts so the time it is sitting is the same , the difference is it is a bit cooler at night vs day.

I re-did the DCT calibration but no change in behavior.

I think tomorrow I will try to remember to try to rev the engine a bit to get all the oil moving around before trying to put it into forward walking mode to see if it makes a difference.

Any idea why it does this or how to correct it ?

Addendum:
I tried to rev the engine as mention with no measureable difference. I also added just over a cup of oil, bringing it back to full. It made a very slight difference but not enough to actually make it work when cold.

Strange thing is it works flawlessly when the engine has been warmed a bit or in the evening after work after sitting in sun for 12 hours.

I will change the oil this week and plan to put a slightly heavier oil in to see if it makes a difference.

Suggestions?
Here's a thought from a # 2 mechanic ( me ) and long time rider. ( 30 years ) ( .......almost 1/2 million miles at this point )

Maybe it's just inherent in these bikes of which I also have one. 2018 DCT Tour. Mine acts pretty much exactly the way you describe yours acting.

NOT being a wise-guy.............................so what ?? So, it acts a bit differently when it's cold.............and hot........etc. So what ?? Nothing, I'm sure, you haven't dealt with in one way or another on EVERY single bike you ever owned/ridden. Right ?? Yes. Just ride it and enjoy it !!!! You KNOW, as I do, that there is nothing "wrong" with the bike. That is just one of this ( 2018 Wing ) bikes inherent qualities ..........flaws ??

Just ride and forget about that tiny nothing of a "problem." To date, the "perfect" motor vehicle has NEVER been made. Someone's 'nothing' ( to me ) might be a 'problem' to others.
 

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I consider the "walking forward" redundant as 99.99% of the time I would just put in "D" and ride out of my driveway.
So next time you are taking the bike to the dealer for other reasons I would mention this problem.
Definitely I wouldn't change oil for this issue.
Check my reply on this post. It's NOT a 'problem.'
 

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FWIW, with some practice, you can learn to use just enough throttle to slip the clutch like with a manual.
Pretty much what the computer does when running walking mode. (limit the throttle and slip the clutch)

Unless I need to use both forward and reverse walking mode to get out of a jam, I use the 'gentle on the throttle' method to avoid having to enable walking mode at all.


Since I don't use it much, it took me quite a while to figure out about keeping walking mode engaged when it slips and stops after encountering resistance to give it time to make the adjustments to overcome whatever stopped it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I consider the "walking forward" redundant as 99.99% of the time I would just put in "D" and ride out of my driveway.
So next time you are taking the bike to the dealer for other reasons I would mention this problem.
Definitely I wouldn't change oil for this issue.
I'm not changing the oil for this reason . Although I know it is no longer necessary due to higher manufacturing standards and machining etc to change the "break in oil" but this is my 1st new vehicle since 1984. So the change is strictly to make me feel better that there are no little metal floaty things in my in my oil. I then plan on changing it at 5000 then every 5000 mile vs the recommended 8000.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the responses. Just for general information I am not overly concerned about the issue as I don't rely on it to get out of my garage or anything like that. I can see occasions when traveling / camping that it would be needed or helpful but those are rare and nothing that I couldn't warm the bike up a minute to make it work.

I bring the question up strictly because I want to understand how and why things work the way they do. What is causing this anomaly not that it is a major problem. It/my research may be helpful to someone else out there at some point.

With that said I think I may be on to a possible source.

I have relatively large hands. I am also getting a bit of arthritis in them and due to some spinal problems I have a bit of neuropathy in my hands. So I have put some larger grips on the bike and readjusted the brake lever.

On my ride home last night at first it wasn't working , so I tried it a each red light for a few blocks. No response for a few attempts the then next it was there pulling strong. The only difference was that I had pulled the brake handle harder...?

I know it is electrical and it is either on or off , connected or disconnected unless there is a rheostat of some sort which there isn't in this case.
But it does not change the fact that pulling the brake handle harder made it engage and when it engaged it engaged with more force.

I tried it again this morning and it worked fine.

Very odd behavior.

Thoughts?
 

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Thanks for all the responses. Just for general information I am not overly concerned about the issue as I don't rely on it to get out of my garage or anything like that. I can see occasions when traveling / camping that it would be needed or helpful but those are rare and nothing that I couldn't warm the bike up a minute to make it work.

I bring the question up strictly because I want to understand how and why things work the way they do. What is causing this anomaly not that it is a major problem. It/my research may be helpful to someone else out there at some point.

With that said I think I may be on to a possible source.

I have relatively large hands. I am also getting a bit of arthritis in them and due to some spinal problems I have a bit of neuropathy in my hands. So I have put some larger grips on the bike and readjusted the brake lever.

On my ride home last night at first it wasn't working , so I tried it a each red light for a few blocks. No response for a few attempts the then next it was there pulling strong. The only difference was that I had pulled the brake handle harder...?

I know it is electrical and it is either on or off , connected or disconnected unless there is a rheostat of some sort which there isn't in this case.
But it does not change the fact that pulling the brake handle harder made it engage and when it engaged it engaged with more force.

I tried it again this morning and it worked fine.

Very odd behavior.

Thoughts?
Instead of using the hand brake lever, use the rear brake pedal. Either one will work. In your case with some neuropathy in your hands, the rear brake pedal may work better for you.
 
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