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Discussion Starter #1
I want to test a heat troller off the bike before I go to the trouble of installing. If I pull the battery (its just too darn cold to work in the garage right now), can I hook it up directly to the battery for the testing or do I need to have a 10 amp fuse inbetween? Second question, when I go to put it on the bike, will the posts off the fuse box be adequate(are they fused at a high enough amp?) or do I need to tap into something else. Would be nice if I had something that would turn off when I shut the bike down in case I left it on…

Thx

Dave

 

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Rather than than unhook the battery, just install the controller harness to the battery posts, with the supplied inline fuse, if your brand does not furnish one, then also install an inline fuse. Only takes seconds to install the harness rings to the battery screws. Or just shadetree it, have someone hold the ring or wire ends to the battery posts while you use a meter to see what voltage passes through the controller.

Sorry the wires and such for the AUX post are not big enough to carry the current load for heated gear.

Most of us do not worry about it, as when we get off the bike we unplug the wire in any event, or one is supposed to, sometimes I forget........;) What I am saying is when you get off the bike you have to unplug yourself, so it would be hard to leave it on.
 

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I'm getting ready to install one for my GF. Most will do like Kit says. However for me, I'm installing a perminate controller in the RR compartment. In there as well will be a aux. fues box that'll be wired to only have power with the ing. switch on. The reason for the aux. fues box is because I'm not one to have more then 1 add'l wire at the battery post. The 1 wire at the post now is for trailer wiring. That too will run to the new fues box.
 

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I hooked one to my lawn mower last winter worked well for a while until it pulled the battery down the alternator couldn't handle it, but it would work for a test.
 

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I'm getting ready to install one for my GF. Most will do like Kit says. However for me, I'm installing a perminate controller in the RR compartment. In there as well will be a aux. fues box that'll be wired to only have power with the ing. switch on. The reason for the aux. fues box is because I'm not one to have more then 1 add'l wire at the battery post. The 1 wire at the post now is for trailer wiring. That too will run to the new fues box.
Greg, Use a wireless controller from Warn N Safe. I have a dual controller and use one control for my heated stuff and one for my seat. I don't miss all the wires. Just have one now.
 

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What cold??? It's 75 here. Oh wait, you're in Wisconsin. Sorry!!!! I sure don't miss Chicago.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Folks,
its about zero degrees in my garage right now, actually its -6 outside right now. So I dont feel like testing and splicing and all the stuff i need to do to finish what I am working on in that temperature.

that all being said, it takes about 5-10 min to get my battery off and into the house so i can test the controllers. It appears that the name of the game is to get an inline fuse to add to the positive and then i can test it against the battery.
Also, for those that said the aux posts might now work, I once had a heated seat hooked up to them previously and didnt have any issue with getting heat to the seat. But I dont know the actual fuse size that is attached to those posts...someone with knowledge of such? Techdude, you out there?

thanks
dave
 

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Greg, Use a wireless controller from Warn N Safe. I have a dual controller and use one control for my heated stuff and one for my seat. I don't miss all the wires. Just have one now.
Sure like mine. Beats the dual Gerbing I originally purchased by FAR!!!
 

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You really do not need an in-line fuse just to bench test the heat troller. I understand why you prefer to take out your battery and work where it's warm. Just hook it up to the battery and turn it on. If you turn it up to full, you will get a steady 12 volts from the connectors. The way these units work is by Pulse Width Modulation....In other words it always puts out 12 volts but only in pulses. The amount of time that the unit is on depends on how high you have it set. In a very low setting it may only be "on" for 1/10 of a second per second. At half setting it may be on for 1/2 second per second etc. This is not possible to measure with a digital VOA meter because it takes time for the meter to stabilize. Easiest way is to use a digital meter to insure that you are getting 12 volts steady at the full on position. If you want to see the pulsing, hook it to a small 12 volt light bulb and you can see the pulse widths at the various settings. An LED would work better than a light bulb but either would work.

Jeff...
 

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Greg, Use a wireless controller from Warn N Safe. I have a dual controller and use one control for my heated stuff and one for my seat. I don't miss all the wires. Just have one now.
Thanks ... I didn't know about that product.
 

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It seems like you will spend more time out in the garage if you plan to remove the battery, test the controllers inside. You will still need to go back outside and install the battery and the controllers on the bike.

To be outside a shorter amount of time I would use clamps (jumper cable) to hold the leads to the battery still installed on the bike to test. This would take all of two minutes. Then if you want to install the controller, just remove the battery leads and put the controller lead on. This shouldn't take more than five minutes.

OR

Why not wait until it warms up some.

The accessory lugs in the fuse box is fused at 5 amps. If you had a seat heated attend there before and you didn't blow that fuse you must have been under five amps or had a different fuse installed. I wouldn't put a heat controller on those lugs.
 

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Can you check it with an ohm meter? No battery required.
 

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Why not use a 110 AC volt to 12Volt dc power supply then ya don't have to go out in the cold.
 

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You really do not need an in-line fuse just to bench test the heat troller. I understand why you prefer to take out your battery and work where it's warm. Just hook it up to the battery and turn it on. If you turn it up to full, you will get a steady 12 volts from the connectors. The way these units work is by Pulse Width Modulation....In other words it always puts out 12 volts but only in pulses. The amount of time that the unit is on depends on how high you have it set. In a very low setting it may only be "on" for 1/10 of a second per second. At half setting it may be on for 1/2 second per second etc. This is not possible to measure with a digital VOA meter because it takes time for the meter to stabilize. Easiest way is to use a digital meter to insure that you are getting 12 volts steady at the full on position. If you want to see the pulsing, hook it to a small 12 volt light bulb and you can see the pulse widths at the various settings. An LED would work better than a light bulb but either would work.

Jeff...
You can also use an old Dwell Meter. On the 6cyl Scale 0 Degrees Dwell = 0% Duty Cycle, 30 Degrees Dwell = 50% Duty Cycle and 60 Degrees Dwell = 100% Duty Cycle. Or if you have a good Fluke DVOM it will have a Duty Cycle selection that will read percent directly.
 

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By your profile you have an '05. Your acc posts are as below. On something that runs 30 odd watts, the posts are not the way to go. Now, if you are just testing the controller with no load at the other end, you can use anything. But if you are going to load it, directly off the terminals with an inline fuse is a must.

 
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