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Discussion Starter #1
I just registered today and I am hoping to tap into all the Goldwing knowledge here on this forum. Thanking you all in advance for any insight to my problem. I have a 2001 Goldwing Trike that I rode yesterday from Key Largo to Marco Island, Fl. In Miami we topped off with 1/2 tank of gas along with 8 other riders. No problem crossing through Tamiami Trail since we were doing 60mph but once we hit the traffic lights in Marco Island my bike started misfiring and turning off. The F1 light came on. I believe it to be bad fuel since the same thing was happening to the only other person that pumped from the same pump. We filled it with premium 1/2 tank and put some STP water remover. Continued to have the same issue 120 miles back home. Only have a 1/8 of gas tank left. Fine running at high speeds- once you decelerate the bike turns off- will not idle. F1 light still on. We were thinking of emptying the gas tank with a electrical pump and putting recreational gasoline in but PLEASE what else should we do before giving up and taking to the dealer?
 

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IronMan
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read what the f1 is telling you . suck the bad gas out and put some good in -wouldnt fill all the way up case you have to tank off.
 

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The original kickstand wiring had to be configured so the ECU thinks the kickstand is up. It's just a matter of figuring out which wires to plug or unplug to make it think the kickstand has been put down. What make trike is it, maybe someone with the same brand will be able to assist.

OR we can always wait for TechDude to come to the rescue.

I found an older thread that indicates the kickstand wires are connected for normal use. So to get the codes out, you would need to disconnect these two wires while the trike is running in neutral, if I'm thinking correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My trike kit is a Champion. I was able to find the kickstand switch - they left the switch, positioned it in the up position and tie wrapped it in place. I will try get the code on Saturday.
Meanwhile is there anything else I should do besides replacing with fresh gas ie. additive like seafoam, STP to clean injectors, etc.
 

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New gas and either Seafoam or Chevron Techron would be a good start. Without knowing the code, it's hard to say where to start. Since your friends did the same thing, I would say it was bad gas.

Like was previously mentioned, pump the old gas out, put in new gas, but only a gallon or so. Add some FI cleaner and run it through. If it solves the problem, fill it up and ride on. If not, then get the code and we can go from there.
 

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Mixing something both soluble with gasoline as well as water would be a good start. As Bart mentioned, I believe seafoam will do that. That will disperse the water... if that is the problem.
 

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1.
If FI (Fault Indicator) light comes on pull over but DO NOT shut bike off. Put in neutral and put side stand down, RPM’s below 1500. This signals the ECM to send the error code to the
FI light. Count the number of long and short flashes. This will give you the error code. Also known as Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL)

If you shut the bike off the error code is lost - sort of. It will be retained in the ECM but it is harder to get out. If the bike stops and the will not restart you can get the FI light to flash the error code by cranking the engine for 10 seconds. The
FI light will then flash the error code.

Long Blink = 10 Short Blink = 1
i.e. long long long short short short = 33 check error code 33

Number of MIL blinks .Symptoms
.Cause

0 No blinks • Engine does not start

• Open circuit in the power input and ground wires of the ECM: • Faulty bank angle sensor
• Open circuit in bank angle sensor related wires: • Faulty FI IGN relay: • Open circuit in FI IGN relay related wires
• Faulty engine stop switch: • Open circuit in engine stop switch related wires: • Faulty ECM: • Blown FI IGN fuse (20 A)
• Blown ST. KILL fuse (10 A):

0 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty combination meter: • Faulty ECM


0 Stays lit • Engine operates normally
• Short circuit in service check connector wire: • Short circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty ECM


1 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected MAP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in MAP sensor wire: • Faulty MAP sensor


7 Blinks • Hard to start at a low temperature (ECM controls using preset value; coolant temperature: 85° C/185° F)
• Loose or poorly connected ECT sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in ECT sensor wire: • Faulty ECT sensor


8 Blinks • Poor engine response when operating the throttle quickly (ECM controls using preset value; throttle opening: 0° )
• Loose or poorly connected TP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty TP sensor


9 Blinks • Engine operates normally (ECM controls using preset value; intake air temperature: 28° C/82° F)
• Loose or poorly connected IAT sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty IAT sensor


10 Blinks • Engine operates normally at low altitude
• Engine idles roughly at a high altitude (ECM controls using preset value; barometric pressure: 760 mm Hg/1,013 hPa)
• Loose or poorly connected BARO sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in BARO sensor wire: • Faulty BARO sensor


11 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected vehicle speed sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in vehicle speed sensor wire: • Faulty vehicle speed sensor


12 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 1 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 1 injector wire: • Faulty No. 1 injector


13 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 2 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 2 injector wire: • Faulty No. 2 injector


14 No blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 3 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 3 injector wire: • Faulty No. 3 injector


15 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 4 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 4 injector wire: • Faulty No. 4 injector



16 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 5 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 5 injector wire: • Faulty No. 5 injector


17 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 6 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 6 injector wire: • Faulty No. 6 injector


18 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected camshaft position sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in camshaft position sensor wire: • Faulty camshaft position sensor


19 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected ignition pulse generator connector:
• Open or short circuit in ignition pulse generator wire: • Faulty ignition pulse generator


21 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


22 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


23 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


24 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


25 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected right knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in right knock sensor wire: • Faulty right knock sensor


26 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected left knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in left knock sensor wire: • Faulty left knock sensor

29 Blinks • Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Loose or poorly connected idle air control (IAC) valve connector: • Open or short circuit in IAC valve wire: • Faulty idle air control valve


33 Blinks • ECM does not hold the self diagnostic data
• Faulty E2-PROM in ECM • Engine operates normally


41 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected connector in gear position switch related circuits
• Open or short circuit in gear position switch wires: • Faulty gear position switch: • Faulty clutch switch: • Faulty side stand switch

...................

Engine cranks but won’t start
• No fuel in tank, • No fuel to injector, – Clogged fuel filter, – Pinched or clogged fuel feed hose, – Pinched or clogged fuel tank breather tube, – Faulty fuel pump, – Faulty fuel pump circuits, • Intake air leak, • Contaminated / deteriorated fuel, • Faulty fuel injector, • Idle air control valve stuck closed, • No spark at plug Faulty ignition system

Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Restricted fuel feed hose, • Contaminated/deteriorated fuel, • Intake air leak, • Faulty idle air control valve, • Restricted fuel tank breather tube, • Misadjusted idle adjusting screw, • Faulty ignition system

Afterburn when engine braking is used
• Faulty pulse secondary air injection (PAIR) system, – Faulty PAIR control solenoid valve, – Faulty PAIR check valve, – Clogged hose of the PAIR system, • Faulty ignition system

Backfiring or misfiring during acceleration
• Faulty ignition system

Poor performance drive-ability and poor fuel economy
• Pinched or clogged fuel feed hose, • Faulty pressure regulator, • Faulty ignition system

 

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I would get rid of the fuel. Easier said than done though. With the inboard tank it may be a challenge.

Water in ethanol fuel becomes dispersed throughout the fuel mixture. ("Free-phase" is the terminology for this). It is one of the many downsides of ethanol blended fuels.

A few options:

1) Siphon or pump out as much fuel as you can with a hose or cheap plastic siphon pump/bulb from an auto parts store. (Easiest)
2) Disconnect the fuel lines at the fuel rails and let the pump evacuate the tank. (Harder)
3) Remove the tank and drain it. (Hardest)
 

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Vendor
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If the problem persists after removing the old fuel and running fuel cleaner through the bike, then the dirty fuel may have clogged up the filter screen on the bottom of the fuel pump. I have successfully removed fuel pumps on other brand bikes and cleaned out the filter and put them back together and fixed them. I haven't done this on a GoldWing fuel pump, but I suspect it could be done if needed.

I would probably first remove all the old fue and refill with fresh. And in the future, if you think you get a bad load of gas in your bike, don't continue to ride it. You need to siphon it all out and refill with fresh fuel as soon as possible. Continuing the ride the bike with dirty fuel will make things worse, as the dirt will get into the fuel pump, fuel lines, injectors, and fuel pressure regulator. It's best to remove it before it goes through the entire fuel system.

I have a friend who filled up with bad gas from a gas station and siphoned out his tank. This is what it looked like when it came out. Would you want that going through your fuel system?

 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you all for the wealth of information- will get fuel out and see what happens this weekend- will update with results on Monday.
 
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