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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2001 GL1800 79k
I have replaced the fluids and 2x bled the rears according to the VERY LONG AND COMPlICATE OEM manual step-by-step process.
While my brakes are performing superbly, the front suspension behaves like it's in 100% anti-dive mode, I don't seem to have the front suspension travel I was enjoying. I Put 130 pleasurable miles on this week with "plenty o binder action" with good feel..., but I continue to feel I maybe.....introduced XXX into the system, air or ? and causing this "lockdown". of the anti dive valving? Did I miss something?

Advice from the audience?
 

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2001 GL1800 79k
I have replaced the fluids and 2x bled the rears according to the VERY LONG AND COMPlICATE OEM manual step-by-step process.
While my brakes are performing superbly, the front suspension behaves like it's in 100% anti-dive mode, I don't seem to have the front suspension travel I was enjoying. I Put 130 pleasurable miles on this week with "plenty o binder action" with good feel..., but I continue to feel I maybe.....introduced XXX into the system, air or ? and causing this "lockdown". of the anti dive valving? Did I miss something?

Advice from the audience?
If you get on the bike and get a good hard grip on the front brake, you should be able to push the front suspension up and down a couple of inches.
If you have a lesser grip and allow the front wheel to creep a bit while pushing up and down, after a while it should engage your anti-dive and lock up, with no travel.
Can you duplicate both of those conditions?
 

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Try taking the top of the anti-dive valve off and going for a ride. Get back to us.
Billy
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I took a spin with the AD bleeder open with some heavy front brake etc. My rear pedal faded predictably. Back in the shop, I closed the bleeder and pumped the front a bit,..... no appreciable change. IE top of wind screen dips about 2 inches....

Clearly, there's now air in that line that might respond to bleeding. The suspension troubleshooting page states a hard suspension is possibly caused by a "blocked Anti Dive orifice"... So how do I service this? Bleed, refill the rear reservoir, then what?
 

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Not what I meant you to do. You should just have removed the two allen head bolts and tried back that part out of the way. Now you do have air in the system. Tell you what, let's try talking on the phone and we can get this fixed. I see you are in Wisc, I'm in Illinois close to O'Hare Airport. 708 898-8234 after 9am or text me when it will be good for you.

Billy
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
this tutorial emphasized that the upper plunger sometimes sticks. antidive by fred harmon

So I'll inspect, clean, and lube that and see what I get.

I bought the bike with recently replaced front struts, so my first impulse is to service the JUST recently working perfectly AD. Bought it with brown fluid, so a blocked orifice or "cruddy" plunger may be my ticket.

I've read several threads about the AD being a last-minute Honda fix etc. bypass it etc with the same weather eye I apply to diatribes about why linked brakes are for bad P word people... I don't buy it.

I'm certain that someday there's a Traxxion upgrade in my future but with a VFR in the garage, I REALLY like how this monster corners. Dragging knee this beast seems to sit planted neutral while charging at a 40-degree lean. Stiff works too, but that's not why I coveted and bought the world's greatest $4300 tourer. Thanks for all the input...I'll update soon
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Not what I meant you to do. You should just have removed the two allen head bolts and tried back that part out of the way. Now you do have air in the system. Tell you what, let's try talking on the phone and we can get this fixed. I see you are in Wisc, I'm in Illinois close to O'Hare Airport. 708 898-8234 after 9am or text me when it will be good for you.

Billy
I get it billy, I'll try that now. cell 6087261554...but I follow now that I've seen the tutorial video I just posted... cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I get it billy, I'll try that now. cell 6087261554...but I follow now that I've seen the tutorial video I just posted... cheers.
a few minutes later...so I found one of the 4mm torx stripped so I'll buy that before I lop off the culprit. Billy come ride SW Wisconsin Hollows!!!
 

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Not what I meant you to do. You should just have removed the two allen head bolts and tried back that part out of the way. Now you do have air in the system. Tell you what, let's try talking on the phone and we can get this fixed. I see you are in Wisc, I'm in Illinois close to O'Hare Airport. 708 898-8234 after 9am or text me when it will be good for you.

Billy
You're an adult and do as you wish but I don't believe I would be posting my phone # .... send it in a PM
 

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Ratster, have posted my cell # on this forum and others for years and have never had an issue. To me it's not a dark world I need to hide in. I post pictures with my license plate showing and the town and state I live in. You do as you wish.
Billy
 

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a few minutes later...so I found one of the 4mm torx stripped so I'll buy that before I lop off the culprit. Billy come ride SW Wisconsin Hollows!!!
Have been in that area on the bike many times since the mid-70's. Friends would get up to Dodgeville area an tube the river, swing by House on the Rock or take that way up to LaCross. I think the mini Wrigley Field is up that way too. It is a fur place to ride with the rolling hills and twisty roads. Call me if you get in a bind and I will try to help. Can't beat Fred's videos.
Billy
 

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2001 GL1800 79k
I have replaced the fluids and 2x bled the rears according to the VERY LONG AND COMPlICATE OEM manual step-by-step process.
While my brakes are performing superbly, the front suspension behaves like it's in 100% anti-dive mode, I don't seem to have the front suspension travel I was enjoying. I Put 130 pleasurable miles on this week with "plenty o binder action" with good feel..., but I continue to feel I maybe.....introduced XXX into the system, air or ? and causing this "lockdown". of the anti dive valving? Did I miss something?

Advice from the audience?
Remove the top half of the ADV, safely nylon tie it to the fork, and retest ride. Did your ride quality change ???

Here's the part many don't understand. It's great that your brake fluid is getting changed. However, far most important is that it gets done every 2 years/24k whichever comes first. In your case, your brakes should be on its 11th fluid change. If it was maintained that way, the fluid that was exchanged would have looked very similar to the new fluid put in. Trying to "catch-up" on servicing is not nearly the same. As a result, parts are far more likely to fail. A common one is the ADV. Another is what SB-23 (service bulletin-23) addresses. The link below will take you to SB-23.

Years ago, here on this forum, and still some to this day, many would/will brag about never changing their air filter, brake and clutch fluid, and coolant. As time has passed, and 5th gens have aged, the importance of following Honda's Maintenace Schedule, in many ways has proven to being far cheeper then by not following it. Of coarse some will argue that doing 11 brake fluid changes is far more expensive the replacing an ADV, which if looked at that way is true, but these are long-distance m/c, and a lack of maintence increases the risk of break down, and if that happens in the middle of a trip, those costs can become very expensive quickly (tow, hotel, loss of trip time, etc).

SB-23 says "Honda has determined that under conditions where the brake fluid is subject to pro-longed aging due to a lack of maintenance (i.e., the brake fluid is not replaced for a long period of time despite the published maintenance schedule of replacement every 12,000 miles or two years, whichever comes first), deposits may form within the brake fluid. If sufficient deposits are formed, they can result in a malfunction of the secondary master cylinder, which may cause the rear brake to drag."

Those same contaminates are everywhere throughout the brake fluid, and often settle in low areas, and at endpoint point parts, such as an ADV.

 

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So I took a spin with the AD bleeder open with some heavy front brake etc. My rear pedal faded predictably. Back in the shop, I closed the bleeder and pumped the front a bit,..... no appreciable change. IE top of wind screen dips about 2 inches....

Clearly, there's now air in that line that might respond to bleeding. The suspension troubleshooting page states a hard suspension is possibly caused by a "blocked Anti Dive orifice"... So how do I service this? Bleed, refill the rear reservoir, then what?
Oh no you didn't??

That I would of kept secret. :rolleyes:
 

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If you get on the bike and get a good hard grip on the front brake, you should be able to push the front suspension up and down a couple of inches.
If you have a lesser grip and allow the front wheel to creep a bit while pushing up and down, after a while it should engage your anti-dive and lock up, with no travel.
Can you duplicate both of those conditions?
What you are describing is what activates the rear brakes when using the front not the anti-dive. The anti-dive is direct from fluid pressure, this is why there is a bleed port there.
 

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Wanna see if your AD is working after your bleed?
With bike on the ground and you on the seat, roll forward and grab a handful of front brake. The resulting dive in the front end will be minimal and pretty firm. Compare this action you just completed to:
Put the bike front wheel against a curb or a wall so that it cannot go forward at all. While straddling the bike again, push forward on the handle bars without grabbing any front brake at all. The front end should move up and down using most of the suspension travel. Just the way it would be while riding along on the street without applying the front brake.
 

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It also activates the anti-dive. Give it a try!
The anti-dive is activated by brake fluid of the rear brakes (part of the rear bleed process). The rotation of the left caliper activates the rear brakes. Because the rear brakes are now engaged, the anti-dive kicks in. If you don't do that complicated action just right, it will not work. It is much easier to just go directly to what does work and use the rear brake instead.
 
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