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Discussion Starter #1
Do you order new valve stems for front and rear nrf or rf tires...if so, are they special or do you have to run a tire pressure monitor system. I normally check my air pressure on a weekly basis, or prior to a trip...once on the road I visually check after each fuel stop along with a general walk around observation.

Think, my combo will be BS Potenza G019 nrf rear, and BS 709 frt, w/Centramatics frt & rear

Thanks for your help regarding this question

Doug / AG5I
 

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I do the staight shorty stems and they last "LONGER"! They are plague free, NUFF SAID!........................
 

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OEM Honda stems are junk .TMPS not a bad idea. Any stem is better than what you got in there now. :thumbup:
 

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I use the 90 degree all metal stems that fasten from the inside of the run-flat. Use straight metal for the front MT.
 

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I use the Patchboy 90 degree metal stems.

After two valve stem failures (on the same day) with OEM, I learned my lesson.
 

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And his are not at a ripoff price like others!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
I used my last one on Vettersherps bike. I will order a handful through bulldog :yes1: JPINPA speaks nothing but praise for him :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ordered some stems, along with some other stuff...thanks for the heads up.

Doug / AG5i
 

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http://www.shop.shinhopples.com/product.sc?productId=669

I just got these, I prefer the nut being on the outside. IMO, the nut on the outside allows for a better seal because the pressure in the tire causes the primary seal and the nut adds additional compression of the rubber seal. I use the little short straights because I have the tyredog TPMS. IMO, the shorter, the better. Regarding TPMS, I use this because I fear a slow leak could cause a blowout even after checking the pressure that morning. It just takes one nail. The best time to make the decision on the need for these things is when you are on the freeway doing 75 a 80 mph with an 18 wheeler bearing down on you.
 

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Looks good, lasts a long time. Could not ask for better.

http://kurveygirl.com/shop/index.php?cPath=27
:agree:
I use these too, very light and seal great, lots of color choices too. If you face the valve stems to the right side, instead of the left side of the wheel then the stock support tab on the wheel does not need to be removed as per the instructions.

If you use straight stems then be sure to use use good metal valve caps, not the cheap plastic ones, because at high speeds centrifugal force can open the schrader valve, that is why high performance cars have angled stems like the ones in the photo.
 

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:agree:
I use these too, very light and seal great, lots of color choices too. If you face the valve stems to the right side, instead of the left side of the wheel then the stock support tab on the wheel does not need to be removed as per the instructions.

If you use straight stems then be sure to use use good metal valve caps, not the cheap plastic ones, because at high speeds centrifugal force can open the schrader valve, that is why high performance cars have angled stems like the ones in the photo.
I have to disagree, seems to me that centrifugal force would make the Schrader valve seal tighter. never heard this before.
 

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I have to disagree, seems to me that centrifugal force would make the Schrader valve seal tighter. never heard this before.
Well, it's the truth, get used to it. As the wheel turns centrifical force will exert more force to open the valve as speed (centrifical force) increases. How much force? Maybe in the neighborhood of 1600 G's. This probably occurs around 140 mph or maybe a little less depending on tire speed.

Here is a GIF of a Schrader valve in action. Think of the black object that they open the valve with as centrifical force.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...rader_valve_opening_and_closing_on_a_tire.gif

Well, I never drive my GW that fast and I have the stock Honda valve stems so it does not effect me. Well unless the little plastic holder that keeps your valve stem in place is properly installed it does and even if it is properly installed your valve stem is still subjected to centrifical forces that bend it over. Over time this force and the effects of mother nature on the rubber in your valve stem cause the valve stem to fail. Of the two I suspect that centrifical force is the biggest cause.
 

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I have to disagree, seems to me that centrifugal force would make the Schrader valve seal tighter. never heard this before.
With a straight stem you push the Schrader down towards the tire to open it, correct? Centrifugal force pushes everything away from the center of the wheel and towards the tire tread, so it pushes it down towards the open position. At 60 mph not a big deal because the tire is only about 850 rpm, but near 100 mph and up the tire is around 1600 rpm or more so centrifugal force is working pretty good now. With a good metal cap with the rubber seal inside it won't matter if the schrader opens or not, it will keep the air from leaking out.
I am not saying you should not run a straight stem, there is nothing wrong with it, just use a cap for insurance thats all.
 

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With a straight stem you push the Schrader down towards the tire to open it, correct? Centrifugal force pushes everything away from the center of the wheel and towards the tire tread, so it pushes it down towards the open position. At 60 mph not a big deal because the tire is only about 850 rpm, but near 100 mph and up the tire is around 1600 rpm or more so centrifugal force is working pretty good now. With a good metal cap with the rubber seal inside it won't matter if the schrader opens or not, it will keep the air from leaking out.
I am not saying you should not run a straight stem, there is nothing wrong with it, just use a cap for insurance thats all.
Yep, I see it now. Thanks for the explanation. Sorry walter, you are correct. Wow, learn something every day.
 
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