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Discussion Starter #3
I have 32,000 miles, put a new tire on last week and have noticed a rotational clicking from the front wheel. Sounds like my Valk did when the bearings started to go bad. Just looking for a generic part no. so I do not have to wait for a Honda part. I also need brake pads so I ordered a EBC set from Hal.
 

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6004 sounds like a generic bearing number. Go to any bearing supply house. Don't buy Chinese, Indian, Korean, or Pakastani bearings. They are poor quality.

Stick with either Japanese or US made bearings.

Fafnir are a good brand to use. Also be sure to get double sealed bearings. I have used Fafnir bearings in other bikes with good success and never had a failure of one, though they cost a bit more.
 

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I would want to remove the bearings and hand carry them to a bearing supply house to insure a proper match, but here is what I found on 6004 bearings......

http://www.nobtech-hosting.com/cgi-bin/ ... search.cgi

ESI# 6004 $5.60
Dim: ID:20mm x OD:42mm x W:12mm
Desc: Radial Ball Bearing, Chrome Steel 52100.
Brand:premium
Dynamic Load: 1900 (lbf) Cr
Static Load: 1090 (lbf) Cor
Speed: Grease:17000 RPM , Oil:20000 RPM


Here is another good site.

http://www.awbearings.com/awbearings/
 

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Fred...me thinks that you must eat, sleep and breathe motorcycles. You are a tremendous asset to this board. Thanks for all you do for us.
 
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markj said:
Has anyone swapped out their wheel bearings? I am afraid it is time for mine. I see a part number or bearing number of 6004 anyone bought these from an outside source? Thanks for any info you may have on this subject.
Please be aware that the GL1800 has a "double set" of bearings on each side, left and right, on the front. They come as a "stuck together" set.
 

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Fred H. said:
6004 sounds like a generic bearing number. Go to any bearing supply house. Don't buy Chinese, Indian, Korean, or Pakastani bearings. They are poor quality.

Stick with either Japanese or US made bearings.

Fafnir are a good brand to use. Also be sure to get double sealed bearings. I have used Fafnir bearings in other bikes with good success and never had a failure of one, though they cost a bit more.
Is this brand any good? :D

http://www.ahrinternational.com/fag_bearings.htm
 

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Wheelbearings

Before you jump into new wheelbearings try resetting the clearance between the brake caliper and the rotor mounting bolts. I think if you set the clearance buy the book the noise will go away. And so will the rubbing on the bolt heads. Try it...............Loosen the axle pinch bolts and reposition the strut to axle, this is only like .030 I don't remember the exact clearance. Good luck.
 

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Fred H. said:
6004 sounds like a generic bearing number. Go to any bearing supply house. Don't buy Chinese, Indian, Korean, or Pakastani bearings. They are poor quality.

Stick with either Japanese or US made bearings.

Fafnir are a good brand to use. Also be sure to get double sealed bearings. I have used Fafnir bearings in other bikes with good success and never had a failure of one, though they cost a bit more.
Be aware - the front wheel has a total of four bearings - two on each side. They are sealed on one side. The unsealed sides are face to face.

Also - I had a difficult time getting mine out when I had the front powder coated. Had to make three different tools before I got it right.

For what it is worth.
 

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Be aware - the front wheel has a total of four bearings - two on each side. They are sealed on one side. The unsealed sides are face to face.
Good info, thanks. I haven't pulled mine out yet, but probably will replace them at 50k miles. What does the tool look like you made?

I guess the rear bearings are built into the rear drive unit and hub?? If so, maybe you don't have to ever change them??
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks to all that replied, (and those that didnt) :)

Joewinger I will try that again tonite. I did loosen the axel pinch bolts and axel bolt, bounced the front end a couple times and re-tightened things. Makes a kind of clicking sound that does not go away with brake pressue applied. Gets louder as I go faster. Tonite I can get to it, been taking care of my son nites while the wife works and he gets into things in the barn if you know what I mean.

Fred H. you are a wealth of information.

Draco, thanks for the heads up on the wheel bearings I would have messed up and ordered only 2.

Thanks guys, this board is a nice place to visit due to its members.
 

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"Fred H."

Good info, thanks. I haven't pulled mine out yet, but probably will replace them at 50k miles. What does the tool look like you made?

I guess the rear bearings are built into the rear drive unit and hub?? If so, maybe you don't have to ever change them??
Fred

Sometimes the spacer will move side to side enough to carefully press the bearings out but mine did not. Think it is due to the design of the wheel.
What finally worked - I took a bar that just fit inside the bearings and was longer than the wheel was wide. I bored out a portion of the bar to fit a tapered punch. I then turned down the same end of the bar leaving a ridge at the very end. Then I sawed across the end in two places leaving me with four serations. I slipped this into the bearings until I could feel the lip catch at the edge of the bearing. I then took my tapered punch and inserted it in the opposite end. I tapped the punch in forcing the lips of the bar into the space between the bearing and rim. Then it was a matter of pressing the bearing out. Start by pushing the bearing on the left side out. This will allow the spacer to also come out and then pressing the opposite bearing is simple.
 
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