[flyerq68]

I'm sure the switch is worn, and not making contact. Have to play with shifter to make light go on, even when it's in neutral. Everything works off the light, can't use reverse, or anything else till light goes on.. Thanks for any help, Ken

 

[techdude2000]

It's in the front cover of the engine. This is a picture of the cover and switch removed from the engine. The clutch slave cylinder has to be pulled off of the cover first. This cover is to the left of your oil filter looking at it from the front with the lower cowl removed.

 

[flyerq68]

Thank you very much techdude.

 

[techdude2000]

Just a quick note, you can leave the hydraulic line attached to the slave cylinder when it's pulled off. This will keep you from having to bleed the clutch system when you reassemble it. :thumbup:


Here's your part numbers:

GASKET, TRANS CVR #11391-MCA-000 $6.45

SWITCH ASSY., CHANGE #35759-MCA-003 $54.28

These are HDL's prices.

 

[ssncob]

Kudos

Dr. Techdude, once again some superb help for someone. Kudos to you sir. :bow::thumbup:

 

[techdude2000]

Thanks! Just payin' it forward! :thumbup:

 

[flyerq68]

Wow, I've saved enough money on this forum, I would almost be willing to pay dues or a subscription, almost. Thanks again, Ken

 

[JDBRIDER]

You need a new gear position switch. Its located on the front of the engine. The hardest part of the job is getting to the plug to unplug the switch. I think if I had it to do again I would cut the wire and solder and shrink tube the new one.

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

So long as the Wing is not ABS equiped, you will be able to follow the wire up to it's boot and disconnect is. Don't forget you may new oil and filter too. Center stand the bike, make sure it is nuetral, pull the front lower cowl, and the black one above it. Remove the slave cyliner, disconnect the sensor, remove the slave cylinder, and then the tranny cover and the switch. Make sure you index pin with the case as it shows in Techdudes pix above and reassemble. Again, make sure it is in N once you center stand it.

If it is ABS, pull the shelter, tank, and air filter box to disconnect the GPS.

To break the gasket loose on the tranny cover, on the bottom of the cover facing forward, place a block of wood on the lower lip and smack it with a hammer. You will need a can of gasket remover.

 

[demoderbydave]

It's in the front cover of the engine. This is a picture of the cover and switch removed from the engine. The clutch slave cylinder has to be pulled off of the cover first. This cover is to the left of your oil filter looking at it from the front with the lower cowl removed.

My neutral switch appears to be worn (imagine that with 198K on it!:shock: ) You often have to wiggle the shifter often to get the light to come on...

Anyways based on the photo that our beloved TECHDUDE supplied in this earlier post :thumbup: I have a simple question. I looked around a little and it looks like the neutral switch screws in and out of that sensor assembly. Why would you need to replace the entire housing/sensor assemby and disasemble half the bike (on my ABS bike) to remove/replace the harness ect when there is only one wire on the actual switch itself?

My thinking is...buy a new switch and gasket, drail the oil/remove the cover disconnect the wire/replace the switch and reinstall the cover and oil and you should have that problem solved... Am I missing something?
Thanks in advance guys!

 

[techdude2000]

Dave, the switch/sensor is the part the 2 bolts are holding to the cover. If you don't want to dig in and unplug it from the harness under the airbox, you could possibly splice into the harness just on the outside of the cover exit. The switch is sealed to keep oil out of it and breaking that seal to swap the wires on it would probably cause it to have a short life. There's 5 wires on it. I would just wait until the next air filter change and swap it out, harness and all.

 

[Waldo]

The cover must come off to replace the switch. As far as the wiring goes, you could put the cover back on then cut and solder to the old harness the new harness colormatching. You'll have extra wire to play with if you cut the old leads at the switch. Just paraphrasing Techdudes post.

 

[Larry Price]

You don't... You only need to pull the cover to get to the switch... No need to replace the cover/housing....order switch and gasket from HDL for about $65.00 and away you go... I am pretty sure there are 5 wires to that sensor, not one....

here's the parts break down at HDL....

http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_secti...=Motorcycles&make=HONDA&year=2002&fveh=124371

My neutral switch appears to be worn (imagine that with 198K on it!:shock: ) You often have to wiggle the shifter often to get the light to come on...

Anyways based on the photo that our belove TECHDUDE supplied in this earlier post :thumbup: I have a simple question. I looked around a little and it looks like the neutral switch screws in and out of that sensor assembly. Why would you need to replace the entire housing/sensor assemby and disasemble half the bike (on my ABS bike) to remove/replace the harness ect when there is only one wire on the actual switch itself?

My thinking is...buy a new switch and gasket, drail the oil/remove the cover disconnect the wire/replace the switch and reinstall the cover and oil and you should have that problem solved... Am I missing something?
Thanks in advance guys!

 

[demoderbydave]

The only reason I ask is I have seen this listed on ebay and it looks like it would just replace the center of the switch shown in the photo from techdude. I guess i am wrong...certainly isn't the first time!

 

[techdude2000]

Dave, that is by Honda's name in the parts list, the neutral switch, but it is actually the reverse switch that's mounted in the right side of the engine case and has nothing to do with the neutral light. When the bike is not in reverse, that switch is pushed by a rod inside the engine and shorts the wire on it to ground, thereby supplying the ground path for the "B" starter relay's coil for engine starting. When in reverse, the switch is open and this is what keeps your bike from starting if you park it in reverse. :thumbup:

 

[demoderbydave]

I knew it couldn't be that easy... That's why I asked you guru's!
i will order the correct parts! Thanks as always! :bow:

 

[Waldo]

I knew it couldn't be that easy... That's why I asked you guru's!
i will order the correct parts! Thanks as always! :bow:

The "gear postion switch" has five wires and six positions that it comes to rest in. All gears are important because that switch tells the ECM what gear you are in so it can do what it does. In fifth, it illuminates the OD light and in neutral it illuminates the N light. They are all switch(es) to ground, 1st gear being open. There are five color coded wires inside the tape of the "wire" that exits the chamber. Again, if you just pull the old switch, insert the new, you can clip both and solder coded wire to coded wire ad not have to get to the plug which is buried pretty deeply *remove airbox at least.

Here are the wire colors.