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2010 Level 1, 70k miles, 1 owner, Pearl Hot Rod Yeller (of course). Looking to replace the battery. From all that I read, it seems that Yuasa is the battery I need; but which one?? Specs are slightly different between the GYZ20L (210 cca), YTX20HL (310 cca), and YTX20L (270 cca). Which one is the better battery to use? Thanks!!
 

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The GYZ is slightly heavier and has a higher capacity (20 amp/hr). The YTX is a lower capacity (18 amp/hr) battery, but has a slightly higher CCA rating. Several years ago (2009?), Yuasa found a way to make a higher capacity battery with larger plates in it, and released the GYZ series. Prior to that, all Wings came with the YTX from the factory. There is nothing wrong with the YTX at all, and it will work fine.

If it were me, I'd probably buy the one I could get the best price on. But if the price difference was small, then I'd go with the GYZ.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So, the capacity rating is more important to long life, cold weather starting, etc, etc, etc that the cca rating?
 

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The capacity rating speaks to how LONG the battery can provide current, and is rated in AMP/HOURS. The cold cranking (CCA) rating speaks to how much instantaeous current the battery can provide when cold, for cranking over the engine.

To understand how this relates, a battery with a higher AMP/HOUR rating will hold its voltage longer if the engine is not running but the key is left on. An example might be if you are listening to the radio or programming the GPS with the key in the accessory position and the engine shut off.

A battery with a higher CCA rating will provide more current to the starter motor when you turn on the key and hit the starter button on a cold day. This is usually the number folks pay the most attention to when buying a battery, because starting current is normally the most critical function of a battery.

Both batteries will work fine in this bike. The new GYZ has more than enough CCA to start the bike in most any circumstance. And the old YTX has enough AMP/HOURS to power the bike with the engine off, but the GYZ will power it for a bit longer with the engine shut off. However, I don't recommend leaving the key in the ACC mode with the engine off for a significant length of time on EITHER battery, as this will drain it and cause it start the sulfation process. If you need power on the bike for an extended length of time, it really should be plugged into a charger to keep the battery topped off.
 

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I shop at battery-stuff.com and have 3 stinger lithium batteries and not one problem with them. They fit, are much lighter and no sulfuric acid. The rest of my bikes will get them as the lead batteries need replacement. They don't cost much more than a good lead acid battery. I had an X2 power lead acid battery last 10 years in my CBR 1100XX so I'm not against the lead acid batteries. Just another option for you to consider.


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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rickathome Were you happy with the last battery? Your bike is a 2010, was that battery the original? Make it easy on yourself, just replace it with one just like it. The stock battery in my 2017 is a Yuasa GYZ20L. That is what I will replace mine with when necessary. $81.13 with free shipping from Amazon (Prime).
 

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Another way to describe the difference between the YTX and GYZ would be this. Think of battery capacity (expressed in terms of amp/hours) as a description of how much ENERGY a battery contains. A 20 amp/hour battery has more energy in it than an 18 amp/hour. So the GYZ has more energy in it than the YTX. And this also is shown in its weight, since it contains more lead.

But in terms of CCA, the YTX can expel more INSTANTANEOUS energy out of it, at least on the first crank event. So while the GYZ has more energy, the YTX can get its energy out faster. However the YTX will have used more of it's energy on the first crank and will have less energy left in it.

Since the GYZ has more energy in it, even though it can't expel it as quickly, it will have more energy left in reserve after the first crank. So if your bike took 5 cranks before it started, the GYZ would most likely do a better job on cranks 3, 4, and 5 and probably would crank it over more times than the YTX would. So if your bike was ever hard to start, you'd have a better chance of getting it started with the GYZ. But as everyone knows, on a Gold Wing, this is pretty much a moot point, as they fire off on the first crank just about every time.
 

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rickathome Were you happy with the last battery? Your bike is a 2010, was that battery the original? Make it easy on yourself, just replace it with one just like it. The stock battery in my 2017 is a Yuasa GYZ20L. That is what I will replace mine with when necessary. $81.13 with free shipping from Amazon (Prime).
As I just verified today directly from YUASA, my current 2008 GL1800 battery is 11 real years old and still going strong (made in 8/08, and started the bike today, 01/20!). When I replace it there is no question I will purchase exactly the same make and model. Hard to argue with $7.40/year for a battery. ???
 

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My 08 still going just fine as well. Always laugh and say "for peace of mind I should have replaced this battery 4 times", but I don't replace things that aren't broken, as it's really fruitless to try to predict life of a battery or anything else for that matter in my opinion.
 

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2010 Level 1, 70k miles, 1 owner, Pearl Hot Rod Yeller (of course). Looking to replace the battery. From all that I read, it seems that Yuasa is the battery I need; but which one?? Specs are slightly different between the GYZ20L (210 cca), YTX20HL (310 cca), and YTX20L (270 cca). Which one is the better battery to use? Thanks!!
That's an easy answer. Put the one in that was engineered for your Wing ... nothing more, nothing less. Part #1 calls for a YTX20L-BS. 2010 Honda GL1800 5A BATTERY | MRCycles
 

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I think from my experence at least the -BS Yuasa, meaning bottle supplied (acid pack added manually) last longer than the newer GYZ factory activated type, but the -BS needs to be carefully charged with correct amps to last longest. I think they recommend 1/10 the AH rating for several hours, so it needs 1.8A give or take for 10hrs or so to be charged and ready to use for best results. Most chargers will not do a great job, battery tender ect, ect to fully activate the battery correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Many thanks for all the responses. I ended up going with the GYZ20L (Amazon).
 

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Many thanks for all the responses. I ended up going with the GYZ20L (Amazon).
Given that you will put the battery in service right away, that is a fine choice. You do not have to put the exact OE model in, the engineers at Honda will not look down their noses at you. Make sure you charge the new battery before you install, it will be close to full anyway, but lead acid batteries tend to perform better if not challenged when new.

prs
 

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In Fluke's case, and generally in the way I buy batteries, I prefer the ones that come with the electrolyte in the special separate container and the battery empty. That way, we can have the next battery on hand, in storage, for use when the current battery shows signs of failing. In this scenario, it is very important to properly initialize the BS battery before use. Install the electrolyte, let the newly filled battery rest for several hours or even a day before charging, and then fully charge the battery at a low rate (2 amps) or less before installing.

prs
 

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I just checked Amazon and the GYZ20L is $141 and YTX20L-BS is $80. (I tried to quote one of the above posts above and can't make the new quoting procedure work.)
 

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Amazon.......GYZ20L for $83.61

Wow, that's a good price for the GYZ, thanks for posting that.

I think from my experence at least the -BS Yuasa, meaning bottle supplied (acid pack added manually) last longer than the newer GYZ factory activated type, but the -BS needs to be carefully charged with correct amps to last longest. I think they recommend 1/10 the AH rating for several hours, so it needs 1.8A give or take for 10hrs or so to be charged and ready to use for best results. Most chargers will not do a great job, battery tender ect, ect to fully activate the battery correctly.
You are right, it is very tough to properly activate a new battery with any of the automatic type chargers, because many of the will shut off too soon. Battery voltage can go as high as 17 volts during activation, and this can cause some automatic chargers to go into the float mode too soon. I wish someone made a charger that had an "Activation Mode" that you could set on a timer. Yuasa says that if you buy their charger, that it will take a newly activated battery to 100% charge before going into float mode. I don't know if any of the other chargers on the market do that, but I don't think the Deltran Battery Tender will.

Also, keep in mind that since the GYZ is a higher capacity battery, it needs between 2-3 amps from the charger. Many motorcycle chargers put out slightly below 2 amps so they can take longer to charge the GYZ.
 

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I wonder why when I type GYZ20L in the Amazon search I get a page that shows it costs $141? EDIT The Amazon description for the $83 one is YUAM720GZ, but the picture is of the same GYZ20l that shows as $141 on my search.??
 

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I wonder why when I type GYZ20L in the Amazon search I get a page that shows it costs $141? EDIT The Amazon description for the $83 one is YUAM720GZ, but the picture is of the same GYZ20l that shows as $141 on my search.??
I ordered the battery in the Amazon link I provided above ($83), about 3-months ago, and I received the GYZ20L battery.

Not much information on various battery numbers but found this on Revzilla's site, which shows it's the same battery.

364923
 

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I wish someone still made a fully manual battery charger for a price whithin reason. There still may be chargers made this way, but not the norm. I remember Shumacher used to make a charger that was awesome, you put in your own amps ect and it just charged at that rate, knobs you turn to set amps and volts, no automatic crap. I suppose though that the thought of doing anything manual turned off a lot of buyers, and opened the door for operator error.
 
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