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That's my question - I just blew my fork seals and need fix them so while I'm going to be in there - any ideas? I was thinking of just changing the springs to Progressive, Traxxion or Race Tech. But will that even make a difference? Should I just fix the bike stock or what?
 

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That's my question - I just blew my fork seals and need fix them so while I'm going to be in there - any ideas? I was thinking of just changing the springs to Progressive, Traxxion or Race Tech. But will that even make a difference? Should I just fix the bike stock or what?
I just rebuilt my front end a couple of weeks back. My left seal was seeping, so whay not?? I put Traxxion springs in, new guides, seals etc. I also disabled the anti dive even tho it was working fine. It's like a new ride.....
 

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That's my question - I just blew my fork seals and need fix them so while I'm going to be in there - any ideas? I was thinking of just changing the springs to Progressive, Traxxion or Race Tech. But will that even make a difference? Should I just fix the bike stock or what?
The stock springs are really to soft unless you are a fly weight and they wear out quickly. An upgrade to any of the ones you mentioned would be well worth the investment of just over $100.00 in my opinion. I prefer the straight weight springs over the progressives but again thats just me. I dont know where in MA you are but if you are anywhere near Lowell you are welcome to try my bike. I just had 1.2 Traxxion springs and Race Tech valves put it.
 

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Yes. Yes. Yes! Go to the RaceTech site, use their interactive tool to find the right spring weight and order them right away. Why not? Also consider AllBalls or at least checking the steering head bearing torque. This is the time to do it. Parts and labor should be, what, $200?

My ride is much SOFTER since putting in the new firmer springs. Go figure!
 

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Another vote for Race Tech. Mine has .95 Race Tech springs ( I weigh around 195) along with their valve kit. This is not hard to install. The difference is very noticeable. Use a good synthetic fork oil (not the Honda crap) and take your time to clean everything thoroughly. The instructions are not horrible but read them completely several times before you start. There are some good pictures of the valve stack and you do reuse one of the OEM spacers. I did the seals and sliders at the same time and at 40,000 miles the sliders/bushings were shot. If you haven't, while you have the forks off, change the stem bearings. Between all of this, the front end becomes much more stable. The entire thing can be done in a weekend if you are handy with tool without being rushed.
 

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I just rebuilt my front end a couple of weeks back. My left seal was seeping, so whay not?? I put Traxxion springs in, new guides, seals etc. I also disabled the anti dive even tho it was working fine. It's like a new ride.....
:agree: :thumbup: If you go with Traxxion...check weight chart and buy the springs for your weight. I would do All Ballz bearing in stirring stem if there stock. Disable Anti Dive is a must IMHO. (no more left seal problems) Bike preforms better when AD is disabled IMHO! Toss a Progressive rear spring on the back and you will be amazed how much better your wing will be!

NOTE: Never disable AD with stock springs! There not heavy enough! Just say'n

Poor mans suspension upgrade

1. All Balls Gold Wing Steering Bearings $40
2. Performance Fork Spring Kits $110 (More weight options )
3. Rear Shock Spring $95
4. Front Fork Seal Kit $113 (2001 to 2005 kit ...cheaper if newer bike)
5. 2 qt Fork oil $24
6. If your bike has more than 40K miles on it. I would consider a 2012-2014 rear shock takeoff with 0 or low miles. Can be had for $100.

$381 (parts)
$100 (takeoff shock)
$481 poor mans suspension upgrade...

Hope I did not forget something...(not uncommon for me!? :shock:

Fred H has a CD set out there that will walk you threw the whole repair. (If your ADHD like me...play CD's at 3X to keep your mind from drifting!)

Or I am sure Fred H will work you up a price to install if you don't like getting dirty. :lol::thumbup:

PM me...I will let you borrow my steering stem socket as long as you pay for my shipping on return. Or buy one...I think there out there for around $50.

Good luck....the above is worth the time and money if you don't/can't do a full blown suspension upgrade!! :thumbup:
 

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That's my question - I just blew my fork seals and need fix them so while I'm going to be in there - any ideas? I was thinking of just changing the springs to Progressive, Traxxion or Race Tech. But will that even make a difference? Should I just fix the bike stock or what?
I put Progressive springs on mine after 1 year and 12,000 miles. YES, it definitely made a difference. I was no longer bottoming out on the curb going in to my work parking lot. No regrets at all. I didn't do all the other stuff people are talking about. I'd say to definitely do the Progressives at least and if you have a bunch of money to throw at it you can look at the more expensive options.
 

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Absolutely

Stock springs are VERY weak. Something ridiculous like .75 or around there. They went entirely for cushy and did not account for large americans.

The problem with too cushy is that they become extremely harsh when you hit a rough road or big dip or pothole as they simply are not strong enough to support the 900 pound bike and 300 pounds of rider(s) and gear that is on it.

A stiffer spring can take that same bump without bottoming out. It is predictable and smooth. Yes, it's more firm, but not harsh.

Honda knows the front is under sprung which is why they use the anti-dive valve (ADV). The problem is the ADV will try and kick in and make the front end very stiff right before it bottoms out. This is what blows the fork seals. It's also not an optimal situation as your front gets very stiff right at the point where you are needing the most traction in a turn and it may not be able to grip the road as well.

Moving to the correct spring allows the front end to move consistently all the way through the stroke. This consistency translates to much more confidence and control to the rider, is less likely to blow a seal, and I believe actually gives you a smoother ride.

Springs are $140 and disabling the ADV can be done for 5 cents.

If you are going to be in the front end doing work anyway, it's a no brainer to spend the extra $140 to have the correct springs and get rid of the ADV.

Side note....my preference is for a linear spring with the correct spring rate vs. a progressive spring or cartridge. Progressive monotubes are way better than stock and I had them on my last bike, but after having both I think just replacing the springs and disabling ADV is just as good if not better and it's about half the price of Progressive monotubes. There are other pro's / con's for the monotubes related to valving and pre-load adjustability but for my 230 pount self, a 1.2 spring was better than the MT.
 

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:agree: :thumbup: If you go with Traxxion...check weight chart and buy the springs for your weight. I would do All Ballz bearing in stirring stem if there stock. Disable Anti Dive is a must IMHO. (no more left seal problems) Bike preforms better when AD is disabled IMHO! Toss a Progressive rear spring on the back and you will be amazed how much better your wing will be!

NOTE: Never disable AD with stock springs! There not heavy enough! Just say'n

Poor mans suspension upgrade

1. All Balls Gold Wing Steering Bearings $40
2. Performance Fork Spring Kits $110 (More weight options )
3. Rear Shock Spring $95
4. Front Fork Seal Kit $113 (2001 to 2005 kit ...cheaper if newer bike)
5. 2 qt Fork oil $24
6. If your bike has more than 40K miles on it. I would consider a 2012-2014 rear shock takeoff with 0 or low miles. Can be had for $100.

$381 (parts)
$100 (takeoff shock)
$481 poor mans suspension upgrade...

Hope I did not forget something...(not uncommon for me!? :shock:

Fred H has a CD set out there that will walk you threw the whole repair. (If your ADHD like me...play CD's at 3X to keep your mind from drifting!)

Or I am sure Fred H will work you up a price to install if you don't like getting dirty. :lol::thumbup:

PM me...I will let you borrow my steering stem socket as long as you pay for my shipping on return. Or buy one...I think there out there for around $50.

Good luck....the above is worth the time and money if you don't/can't do a full blown suspension upgrade!! :thumbup:
Really good advice in this post. Even if you can't do the labor, you can have all of this done for about $500 more getting you a pretty good upgrade for $1000.

If I went this far, I personally would spend $500 more and get a better triple tree though. You'll end up spending $1500 total to have it done but you'll have an entirely different (better) bike. $1500 is a lot of money....but way more useful than a bunch of asthetic accessories that can easily cost that much or more and do nothing to actually improve the bikes performance.
 

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Really good advice in this post. Even if you can't do the labor, you can have all of this done for about $500 more getting you a pretty good upgrade for $1000.

If I went this far, I personally would spend $500 more and get a better triple tree though. You'll end up spending $1500 total to have it done but you'll have an entirely different (better) bike. $1500 is a lot of money....but way more useful than a bunch of asthetic accessories that can easily cost that much or more and do nothing to actually improve the bikes performance.
Funny how people will spend hundreds if not thousands on "performance chrome", but balk at spending a dime on true performance parts. Hmmmm. :shrug:
(No accusations meant here at all, so do not take it the wrong way! That's an order!)
 

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No don't do it it's a Trap :eek:4:
 
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