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I have a vent to put in my windshield. I was going to cut it in with the windshield on the bike. Any advice on doing it this way? It seems like a lot of trouble to remove the windshield to do this.
 

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I have a vent to put in my windshield. I was going to cut it in with the windshield on the bike. Any advice on doing it this way? It seems like a lot of trouble to remove the windshield to do this.
I agree. And if you screw up, you're screwed. I'm not sure I would take that chance. I think I would just buy a shield with the vent hole already cut.

I just searched the term "windshield vent" and found the following threads. Lots of discussion on the subject.

http://www.gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=290732

http://www.gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288175

http://www.gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283941

http://www.gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=242076
 

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I would cut it while on the bike, it would be easier I think. Make sure it not cold and use the correct cutting blade.
 

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I have a vent to put in my windshield. I was going to cut it in with the windshield on the bike. Any advice on doing it this way? It seems like a lot of trouble to remove the windshield to do this.
I just installed a vent on my Showchrome (Big Bike Parts) acrylic windshield about a month ago.

Here are some very important lessons I learned:

1. The vents are designed to be installed on polycarbonate windshields! OEM Honda windshields are polycarbonate as are some aftermarket windshields (F4, National Cycle, & others). However, most aftermarket windshields are acrylic. This is important because the acrylic windshields are 1/16" thicker than the polycarbonate ones. As such, you can't just cut out the template hole for the vent, you also have to route out a section just outside of that hole to be 1/16" thinner. If you don't, the two sides of the vent will NOT be able to be attached to each other and it won't install.

When I did mine, I was able to route out that pattern using my dremel tool with its small router attachment. Did it all by hand and it was NOT easy. Plenty of opportunity to screw up! But doable if you're a good wrench.

2. I cut the hole in my windshield with it still on the bike. I started with a variable speed scroll saw with a 32 teeth/inch blade,and quickly stopped and cut the rest by hand with a 32 tooth/inch hacksaw blade held just in my hand. Waaaaaay too easy to catch a tooth when using the power tool and crack the entire windshield. (Note that an acrylic windshield is much easier to crack this way than is a polycarbonate windshield. Polycarbonate is much tougher.)

So, if you have a polycarbonate windshield (1/8" thick I believe) it's not a bad job if you're slow and careful cutting the hole. You should be alright. If you have a 3/16" thick acrylic windshield it's a much harder job and you will have to route out that thinner portion. Not easy but do-able.

This is the best advice I can give you having just done this.

I took some pics of this routing process when I did it, but am not where the pics are right now. Can post them later if anyone wants to see them.

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I would like to see the pics. Thanks Bill
Bill,

Just got home from work. Here are the pics from my install with some notes. Hope this helps out.

Now remember, if you have a polycarbonate windshield which is only 1/8" thick you don't need to do this routing procedure. It is only necessary on acrylic windshields or others that are 3/16" thick.

This first one is showing the windshield with the hole cut out using the template that comes with the vent. The black line around the outside of the hole is the part that has to be routed out 1//16" deep. You draw that line by inserting the front half of the vent into the hole and then "outlining" the outside diameter of the entire vent.



Note that you can see where I just started routing at the top right corner.

This second one shows my Dremel tool with the little routing jig attachment and the bit that I used to cut with.



This third one shows the completed routing area from the front. It's all about 1/16" deep.



This fourth one shows the completed routing area from the side. You get a better idea that this entire area is recessed looking at this angle.



Finally, this fifth one shows the vent installed.



You can see that I have a little gap between the outside diameter of the vent and the recessed area that I cut out. I blame that on my trying to smooth out the lines of my cut one too many times!

Important tip on routing the recessed area:
You will not be able to leave your routing jig set at the same depth to do the entire routed area. The reason is that sometimes the jig base is supported only on one side, and sometimes (particularly when rounding corners) it is supported on two adjacent sides. When supported on two sides the cut will be too shallow and you will have to reset your depth at those points to keep the depth of cut in the windshield at 1/16". As a general rule, a little too deep is better than not deep enough. If not deep enough, the two halves of the vent will not assemble through the shield because the shield is still a bit too thick.

Good luck!

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I just cut one in my stock windscreen 2 weeks ago.
Do it on the bike
The only problem i had was the templet didn't fit the vent, was way undersized.
Check your templet for fit on the vent before you start
the stock windscreen cuts and drills easy
 

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Vent

I wmduncan

When I buy my Win 2003 in 2008, a user.
I had no wind, I have to remove the windshield I have put the tape and I cut with a jigsaw, a job a little longer but does a nice job.








I have a vent to put in my windshield. I was going to cut it in with the windshield on the bike. Any advice on doing it this way? It seems like a lot of trouble to remove the windshield to do this.
 

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vent screws

re: the vent screws. A lot of windshields with vents, it looks like the area / corners of the vent where the screw is attached, it looks like the vent plastic has "spider web" cracks.

Is that due to the screw being over tightened when installed, and / or over time with the windshield flex that is just a stress point and it will always have "spider web" cracks?
 

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One thing you might try is to rout out the recessed area before making the pierced cut. That way the router tool will be fully supported for the entire cut. Just a thought.

Joe in Modesto
 

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I bought a newer model windshield from an 08 from this board. My old windshield I cut with a dremel and took about 2 inches off of the top and rounded it over into a sport windshield. After I cut it down I used a belt sander and a round orbital sander to take the rough edges out and smooth it over. Make sure to cover the bike as there will be lots of plastic dust.
 
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