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Discussion Starter #1
I finally hooked up the wife's CanAm trailer to my wing after installing a bushtec hitch. I only pulled it around the block, but all seemed ok. I did notice that the Spyder hitch is 15 inches to the top of the ball. My goldwing hitch is only 12 inches. The trailer is definately nose down.

How about some ideas to raise my ball (hitch ball that is) another 3 inches. :shrug:

Another problem is that the safety chains from the trailer will not reach the connection points on the bushtec hitch.

Joe in Modesto
 

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I finally hooked up the wife's CanAm trailer to my wing after installing a bushtec hitch. I only pulled it around the block, but all seemed ok. I did notice that the Spyder hitch is 15 inches to the top of the ball. My goldwing hitch is only 12 inches. The trailer is definately nose down.

How about some ideas to raise my ball (hitch ball that is) another 3 inches. :shrug:
I had a similar situation. I carefully measured the height of the draw bar, as if pulling it level. I then went to a bolt company (A&L Bolt Inc.) the tech raised the ball about an inch and a half with large flat washers, and then put in a 1 1/2 inch longer than standard shank. Draw bar is now level when towing. I just finished a 3,100 mile trip to the smokey mountains and it works flawlessly. Others may have safety issues with this method, but I can think of much worse (ie. 180 degree swivel ball).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I finally ordered my wiring harness for the wing. I got the isolated one from EC. As soon as that comes in, I'll start making my adaptor for the Can Am Spyder trailer. I already have the parts, so that should go easy.

I still have to come up with a 3" heighth increase in the trailer ball.

Joe in Modesto
 

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I finally hooked up the wife's CanAm trailer to my wing after installing a bushtec hitch. I only pulled it around the block, but all seemed ok. I did notice that the Spyder hitch is 15 inches to the top of the ball. My goldwing hitch is only 12 inches. The trailer is definately nose down.

How about some ideas to raise my ball (hitch ball that is) another 3 inches. :shrug:

Another problem is that the safety chains from the trailer will not reach the connection points on the bushtec hitch.

Joe in Modesto
Bushtec has a drawbar with a two inch lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey Donnie, I saw that on the Bushtec site. Kind of pricey though. I was hoping for a somewhat cheaper solution.

Joe in Modesto
 

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I hauled this one all over the country over lots of mountain roads...loaded down with camping gear...total weight 565 lbs. Started out using a 3" drop tongue on my Rivco hitch but really can't tell the difference using a 6" drop.


South Utah


Grand Canyon


Bear Tooth


Cheif Joseph


Devil's Tower


Eureka Springs


Deal's Gap


Skyway


The little trailer pulls good. My biggest complaint is no rock gaurd for the front of the trailer. Even with the mud flap, I picked these knicks up in 6,200 miles. The plastic over-lay does not prevent all the chips and only makes it harder to fix them.



This is now my dedicated camping trailer.




Z
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey zackybilly1, Thanks for the pics of your setup. My Bushtec hitch comes out flat under the rear fender with no rise or drop. It seems to me that it is a little too nose down. I don't know if this will cause any problems so will have to try some local towing around to see if it feels ok. I'm still looking for an inexpensive (realitively) fix to raise my ball (trailer ball) about 3 inches. I am thinking that if I can find a ball with a threaded recess, I can have the machinist where I work turn me a 3 inch bushing and then use a longer grade 8 or 12 bolt to connect to the hitch plate.

Joe in Modesto
 

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Jo,

I don't know that I wouldn't try it, as well. I am not that familiar with that hitch but, if I recall, that ball height is roughly the same as a Rivco with a 6" drop.

On your safety cables, I have something rigged up similar to this...I don't have access to my photos at the moment but you can easily fab up something along these lines out of a piece of flatbar on a drill press.


Work out your lengths then connect two chains to the hitch frame, hook the cables from the trailer into the chain ends and then, hook into the spreader bar with the hooks. If the tongue falls out of the reciever, you're covered...if the coupler comes off the ball, you're covered. If you are concerned about tongue height, maybe you can put the spreader between the ball and the tongue for a little lift.

Below is a diagram of the BRP trailer plug. Unless you are willing to cut the cord on the trailer for the Wing, then you will need to build an adapter to use it on the Spyder and the Wing.



You'll end up buying an receptacle from BRP to make the adapter. I'd venture to guess that if you do get it rigged up behind the Wing, it will see more mile behind it than the Spyder.

I don't know if you are a trailer hauler or a Pakit Rack guy but don't forget to rig up an isolator. Personally, I like EC's isolator with the plug n play sub-harness. Quick clean install, durable relays (so far). The "under trunk" trailer plug receptacle mount is a worth-while project. Keeps the plug out of the road spray and funk. It's hardly detectable on the bike when not towing.

Now, you know as much about it as I do. Good luck and let me know if I can help.

Z
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks again zackbilly, you've given me a few more ideas to run with. I have the EC isolating harness and the GL1800 sub harness. Just received them yesterday. I refuse to pay the BRP price for their adapter harness. I found the same style plug that BRP uses on a site called wirecare.com. The part was their HD10 series. All I need now is a 5 wire flat connector (for now, I will work on a mounted recepticle later). I think I can pick that up most anywhere.

I have never pulled a motorcycle trailer before. I will probably be the primary user. I still want to rig up a rack like the Pack-it-Rack a little later. I want to make one that can mount to my Bushtec or to the Spyder. I think my wife would be more likely to use the rack than she would the trailer.

Thanks again for your help.

Joe in Modesto
 

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I found the same style plug that BRP uses on a site called wirecare.com. The part was their HD10 series.

Good find, Jo.

I bought my trailer but had a Roadster Spyder. Therefore, I had to buy an RT ignition to get a tumbler to be able to lock the trailer (trailer comes with no tumbler and the RT comes with an extra so all the keys match).

That was the most expensive key I'll ever buy.

Keep us posted.

Z
 

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The little trailer pulls good. My biggest complaint is no rock gaurd for the front of the trailer. Even with the mud flap, I picked these knicks up in 6,200 miles. The plastic over-lay does not prevent all the chips and only makes it harder to fix them.




Z
Is it possible some of that debris could have been kicked up by the mudflap itself occasionally dragging on the road surface? Doesn't look like you have much clearance underneath it.

I have a 'mid-flap' I designed to (hopefully) reduce the chances of rear flats caused by objects flipped up from the road surface by the front tire. Got tired of finding unwanted metal objects embedded in my rear tire. I mounted the flap just ahead of the coolant overflow tank (between front and rear wheel) and also intentionally very low to the road. No rear flats since, but a 'side effect' appears to be more sandblasting of the rear rim when the rubber flap brushes the road over bumps and in the twisties.

But I'll take some minor sandblasting over a rear flat anyday. I replaced the 'mid-flap' last spring after finding several ugly holes and rips in the rubber after about 25K miles of use. The rear tire presumably may have otherwise taken the brunt of this, so it looks like it's doing it's job...
 

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Doug,

That was apparently part of the problem but I'd put 8-10k miles on the trailer with hardly a blemish prior to the trip out West. The flap is stiff and although not dragging the road, I suspect it "wisped" the debris up when passing over. I did shorten it a smidge later. I also suspect it had been doing it for some time but less apparent due to less abrasive debris. This may be a stretch but I think part of the problem was the sharper, more angular gravel/rocks than what I'm used to encountering in the Southeast.

Z
 
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