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No snow to go snowmobiling, so its get the Wing ready for summer. 43000 maintenance free miles with only the normal things like air filter, oil & filter changes and periodic inspections during the riding seasons, along with a few tires.
Checked the valves, had three intakes at .004 and all the exhaust at .008. Ordered the shims from Hal and set them all back at .006 & .009. Went real smooth. Installed new plugs, gapped at the appropreaite setting while the covers were off. Old plugs were looking great, just wide on the gap.
Pulled the forks out and installed the ALL BALLS and then dismantled the forks to clean and change the oil. Found the left fork to have a disentigrating lower slider bushing. Installed new upper and lower bushings and seals plus Progressive springs and new 10W fork oil.
Greased the front wheel bearings and polished up the alum rim with the BOM to make it look like a chrome wheel. The BOM sure makes alum wheel care a breeze. Been 15 monthes since the last application and it still looked good.
Rear shock was getting real bad at the end of the season so out it comes tomorrow and off to Traxxion for an uprade and rebuild along with the adjuster.
During reassembly of front wheel and fender, found the back half of the front fender starting to crack so it is being reinforced and epoxied tonight, before putting it back on.

Keeping the Wing road ready and having fun doing it.
Farmer Jack
 
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Jack you may want to check with Mike at Traxxion first before you send them the shock . I understand they have partnered with Penski and now make their own shock, eliminating the OEM completely. So no need to send them yours anymore .
Max will correct this post if I am wrong, I am sure :roll:


... it isn't the first time I was wrong, nor will it be the last
:)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Winter maintenance project....

Strider, thanks for the info. I will definnately check with Max before I send the shock and adjuster off to him, if he dosen't respond here.

Farmer Jack
 

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Farmer Jack said:
Found the left fork to have a disentigrating lower slider bushing.
Did it look something like this?
(Old one on left - new one on right)



I just finished my forks and steering bearing. (All Balls) I'm curious: On greasing your wheel bearings, did you replace the seals with new ones or re-use the old ones?

Also, what did you torque your All BAlls to?

Thanks
 

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BOM polish

Hey Farmer Jack, Can you give me some info on the BOM polish? Sounds like what I need.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Winter maintenance project....

Soloquest,

Looked a lot like the slider bushing in your photo but was missing the teflon type material in a localized spot nearly from top to bottom resulting in about 20% missing teflon. I was at first concerned that I saw scoring in the bottom of the tube, but upon closer inspection after cleaning the tube throughly it was OK.
I greased the front wheel bearing with a fine grease needle. The needle is inserted into the bearing in two place, 180 degrees apart between the inner race (shaft) and the lip of the seal. The grease needle has a zerk head on it for your grease gun to snap onto.
I have used this method of greasing bearing for years with great success and years of extended bearing life.

Farmer Jack
 

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Don't forget to purge the old brake fluid with new and how 'bout that coolant? :wink:

prs
 

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alls balls & dust seal

I've purchased the bearings plus the dust seal.. Was it hard to remove the old bearing race from triple fork stem to replace the cover. Dealer says you have to really hit it hard assuming with screw driver or chisel. Any comments?

Gary
 
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Re: BOM polish

Mikes03Wing said:
Hey Farmer Jack, Can you give me some info on the BOM polish? Sounds like what I need.
Rejex polish. 100 times superior to anything else on the market.

Read about it here. http://www.corrosionx.com/rejex.html

Buy it at some Tru Value hardware stores, or at Skygeek.com.

You will be amazed.

Ride safe.
 

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Farmer Jack: did you notice ANY change in smoothness or performance of the engine after installing the new shims on the lifters? My '01 has 38,000 miles on it and is due for the valve clearance check. I do have a slight high speed miss and I was wondering if valve adjustment will help. The manual says it could. THANKS, Don W.
 

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Re: alls balls & dust seal

Gary O said:
I've purchased the bearings plus the dust seal.. Was it hard to remove the old bearing race from triple fork stem to replace the cover. Dealer says you have to really hit it hard assuming with screw driver or chisel. Any comments?

Gary
It's not hard, but you have to be persistent. Prop the stem up in a vise. You don't have to tighten the vise on the stem, just open the jaws til you can prop it up in there. Use a flat end punch and tap around the existing seal with a hammer until you get it to move a little, then get a heavy duty screw driver in there and pry it all around. Tap it, pry it, tap it, etc. A little at a time and it will come off. You're goint to chew up the old seal, but don't worry about it.

If you watch Fred's video's, it's a peice of cake. If you don't have Fred's video's, get them. You will use them more than you can imagine.

If you don't have the race tool to press the new one on, you will definitely need a chunk of 1 1/4" PVC.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Winter maintenance project....

Gary O, I ground a slot in the old bearing on the stem shaft with my Dreml tool and then used a chisel to break the race and it slid right off. I have an arbor press to instal the new tapered race.

dwitgoldwing, I have not run the bike down the road to determine if it is running any smoother after the valve adjustment. I am expecting to relize a differnce as I had to adjust all 12 valves and instasllednew plugs correctly gapped at the same time. It will be several weeks before winter loosens its grip on us so I can get it out on the road.

Mikes03wing, the BOMs alum polish is available from www.bikecleaner.com in an intire kit or just the alum polish.

Sorry for the delay in responding to everyone . I was busy last night pulling the rear shock and adjuster from two bikes to send off to Traxxion for upgrades.

Farmer Jack
 

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Thanks for all your replies.

Sorry for not replying sooner. Been a rough week. Looks like Saturday or Sunday will be hammer day. I'll let you know how it turned out. The heater will be on for sure!

Gary
 

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Got the race off

Did like you had mentioned, tapped it, pryed it etc and off she came. Popped out the old races and going to put new ones in this week. Had purchased a new bottom dust cover from honda dealer and noticed two came with the all balls, assuming one for the top and the other for the bottom. Should I use the one from dealer or the product in which they came with? May give him a call tomorrow. Anyways, thanks for the previous info on removal.

Gary
 

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During reassembly of front wheel and fender said:
You do realize that normal epoxy won't work on the 'wing ABS? A certain kind of 2 part glue is needed, and I don't recall what it is. Maybe you could try a 'fender glue' search, or ask somebody on here what Dayle's (with the yellow 'wing) handle on here is. I just don't remember what it is, (sorry Dayle) but he's wrecked two 'wings, and has used this glue to repair his cracked fender, and glue his fender extension on. When you find out, let me know as I need the info too.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Winter maintenance project

Got the back half of the front fender mended. Used an epoxy, two part material for fixing plastic car bumper covers. Very thick and sticky when mixed up. Stays where you put it and cures to a softer consistance than most epoxies plus has a holding strength of 1800 lbs. It sticks very good and doesn't run. Nearly impossible to remove without a scraper or grinder. I beleive this will do the trick. Covered the bushtec fender repair brackets with it and run it out onto the plastic in the inside of the fender
Rear shock is out to Traxxion this week and now changing coolant and brake and clutch fluid while I wait for the shock to return.
Got snow to snowmobile now so progress on this winter project will slow a bit.

Farmer Jack
 

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Re: Winter maintenance project

Farmer Jack said:
Got the back half of the front fender mended. Used an epoxy, two part material for fixing plastic car bumper covers. Very thick and sticky when mixed up. Stays where you put it and cures to a softer consistance than most epoxies plus has a holding strength of 1800 lbs. It sticks very good and doesn't run. Nearly impossible to remove without a scraper or grinder. I beleive this will do the trick. Covered the bushtec fender repair brackets with it and run it out onto the plastic in the inside of the fender

Farmer Jack


It sounds like you made out pretty good. What's the name brand of the epoxy?
 

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Plumbing ABS glue and fiberglass screen or cloth works well. Add a coat of glue, layer cloth, go over with glue. Let set about ten minutes and repeat. I like three layers and wider as it builds up. Split my front fender with garage door, two years now with repair from the underside.
 

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Epoxy

GL03 said:
Plumbing ABS glue and fiberglass screen or cloth works well. Add a coat of glue, layer cloth, go over with glue. Let set about ten minutes and repeat. I like three layers and wider as it builds up. Split my front fender with garage door, two years now with repair from the underside.

I'm real familiar with the glue, as I was a plumber in another life time. Also fiberglassing, as I was in the boat building/racing/repair occupation for about 20 years. That's why I am interested in the epoxy you said you used. I'd really like to see it.
Thanks. :)
 
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