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what can i just wire the trailer like H/F sent in the box and use it with my bike...both are 12V...????and what this little box I've been seeing... don't understand...
 

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There are really 2 issues at hand here...

First, your bike uses a 5 wire lighting system. The HF trailer is set up from the factory as a 4 wire system.

4 wire system: (1) ground, (2) left turn/brake, (3) right turn/brake), (4) running/tail
5 wire system: (1) ground, (2) left turn, (3) right turn, (4) brake, (5) running/tail

In the 5 wire system, the brake lights are separate from the right and left turn lights. In a 4 wire system, they are combined.

Second, you need to be concerned about isolation. If you just wire the trailer lights directly to the bike lights, you are putting extra load on the bikes lighting circuit. You are also exposing the bikes lighting circuit to issues if you develop a short somewhere in your trailer wiring.

So, most folks advise that you always use an isolator box when connecting the trailer lighting to the bike. This box contains relays. The bikes lighting circuits simply pull the relays in and out which connect your trailer wiring to heavier (and fused) wiring from your bikes battery. No chance of frying your bikes wiring with a short in the trailer.

You can change the trailer wiring to be a 5 wire system and simply use an isolator as described above. Or, you will need a box to convert from a 5 wire to a 4 wire system.

I kept the HF trailer that I built as a 4 wire system, and used a U-Haul box that is BOTH a 4-5 wire converter and isolator in one unit. This allows me to easily tow the HF with my car (4 wire system) if needed as well.

The converter/isolator stays on the bike side, and the HF side is wired just like the HF instructions show.

I am sure others will chime in with more details. But, if you need additional info, let me know.

Thanks,
Tom
 

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Adding a Hoppy converter to the Trike is fairly easy. You have to take the seat off, and add it at the connectors. Slicing is required if you do not have Y connections. the Absolute EASIEST way is to order the converter/isolator from EC Electrical Connections, not the cheapest but the easiest.
 

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George just hit it. EC Isolator is the easiest, but seat has to come off. All the connections are there - just pull the stock ones apart and put the new ones in. One wire to the battery for the isolator, and then you have to decide what you want for a trailer connector. 4 wire flat, 5 wire flat, 5 wire round, 6 wire flat, 6 wire round, 6 wire 3X2, etc.

If you go to a five wire connection and wiring system (european style), you may have to add a couple of lights. I do not think that HF trailers have seperate or dual brake lights/turn signals.
 

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George just hit it. EC Isolator is the easiest, but seat has to come off. All the connections are there - just pull the stock ones apart and put the new ones in. One wire to the battery for the isolator, and then you have to decide what you want for a trailer connector. 4 wire flat, 5 wire flat, 5 wire round, 6 wire flat, 6 wire round, 6 wire 3X2, etc.

If you go to a five wire connection and wiring system (european style), you may have to add a couple of lights. I do not think that HF trailers have seperate or dual brake lights/turn signals.
+1 on the EC isolator and 5-wire reducer to 4-wire kit. Worked great and easy plug and play. :thumbup::thumbup:
 
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