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Discussion Starter #1
Finally fixed the wobble:

Here is the History -
1) New Metzler Tires - still wobbled between 30 & 40 mph
2) Tightened steering stem beerings - Still wobbled but now at 35 - 42 mph
3) Greased upper and lower steering stem beerings - still wobbled
4) REPLACED FORK OIL with 15 weight oil - VIOLA!!! Wobble gone.

When draining the fork oil, the oil was black and syrupy. I replaced with a 15 wight fork oil. Wow what a difference!!! The bike handles so much better. It's like a new bike.
I followed Fred Harmon's how to guide at http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon to change fork oil.
Barry
 

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Couple of questions.................


1. Did you install the Progressive Suspension springs? If so how are they?

2. Are the OEM springs hard to get out? (alot of tension like the GL1500 is?)

3. How do you arrive at the correct oil weight rating?


Thanks..............
 

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The only thing hard about the spring change is the right side. You have to looseten a lock nut on the damper rod that is screwed into the bottom of the right side cap. Not too difficult at all.
--- No Massive Spring Pressure to Fight with! :D

Now the Rear Spring, That's another whole story. :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Fork oil change

Changing the fork oil was a synch. I would have done it earlier if I would have known how easy it is.

I kept the original OEM springs.

The springs are not under a lot of pressure, so its pretty easy to reseal the forks. Just be careful not to strip the threads.

As for the weight of the fluid I had read that some folks had put in 20 weight and it was ok, some said it was too hard. I chose 15 weight as a happy medium. It feels wonderful.

Here are a couple of pointers:
1) use a measuring cup to measure the exact amount of oil that is being drained. That way you can replace the exact amount of oil that you drained.
2) Do one fork at a time.
3) There is no need to remove the spring in the left fork. Just drain the fluid and then replace the fluid.
4) Bend the end of a 14 mm open end wrench so that you can get to the retaining nut of the damper in the right side fork... see pictures on Fred Harmons site at pbase (see first post for link)
5) Remove the damper & carefully pump all the oil out of it into your measuring cup.
6) Reinsert damper into fork and replenish with the exact amount of oil that was drained.
7) Pump the damper to refill it with oil - carefull not to loose the shaft as it can drop down into the fork and will be hard to reach.
8) Re-tighten retaining nut and finish asembling fork.

Good luck

Barry
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wobble fixed

I forgot to mention that I have 19,658 miles on a 2001 wing.

Hope this helps

Barry
 

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Barry,

Thanks for taking the time to reply to my questions...............sounds like a reasonably simple procedure.
Now I have to decide If I want to go to Progressive Suspension springs as long as I'm in there doing the oil change.

Hal has 15% off sale today so it makes the cost a little easier!
Hummmmm :eek:


Thanks again..............
 

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What is the stock fork oil weight?

Do you know what the stock oil weight is? In the shop manual it states SS-8 whatever that is. 8 weight maybe.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Fork oil

Stock OEM oil is SS8. SS8 = 10 weight oil.

Personally, changing the oil has made such a difference and is so easy to do. Why not chnge the oil and see the difference before you spend the money on progressive springs.

It is very easy to later add the springs if you so desire.

Once you get into the forks, you'll see how simple it is.

Barry
 
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I made the change to 20w oil a while back and liked the idea the front end didn't top out when I hit big bumps. It didn't make a world of difference otherwise. The slight wobble is still there but it's so minor I won't waste anytime with it. I have my own way of doing things and have the post on one of my web pages -http://www.wingtechtips.com I guess I'm to lazy to do things by the book.

I had to put a small disclaimer on the page as "never fails" someone sent me an email telling me -
Altering the fork tube and recommended oil viscosity in such a manner could result in changing the handling charactoristics and may result in an accident
Now I know why lions eat their young :chicken:
 

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I think you can suck the old fork oil out

I think I read on this site some time ago that you can suck the fork oil out of the tubes with something like a Mity Vac. Just remove the springs and pump out the oil. Does that possible? It would seem to me that would be a quick way if it works.
 

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Had the progressive springs installed at Sturgis.They sucked the oil out of the top and used 15 wt fork oil. Bike sits a little higher in the front and rides great! I've used them -progressive- in the past and it has always been worth the money. Tom and happy Thanksgiving!!
 

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I always remove the bolt at the bottom of each fork leg to drain the fork fluid out the bottom. All the residue ends up there so doing it this way is sure to get as much of it out as possible. On another thread, when I rerferred to those lower bolts as "drain bolts", I was told in no uncertain terms that they were not called that. I drain the fluid by removing them so I will stick to calling them drain bolts. You can call them whatever you like. If you want to loosen those bolts, make sure you do it before removing the fork top caps. The pressure of the fork spring will help keep it from turning inside the fork instead of loosening the (drain) bolts.

Be advised that you will leave some dirty fork oil in there unless you remove all the parts and clean them before reassembly. It is not all that much work and it gives you a chance to see if the seals are still good and if the bushings are worn to the point of needing to be replaced. If you don't have the time, then changing the fork oil without disassembly is better than leaving that smelly old oil in there. I recommend replacing the fork oil every two years or 20K miles but many say it needs to be done on an annual basis.
 

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Holy Moley! How in the world do these ancient threads get resurrected? This one is over 5 1/2 years old.
 

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Holy Moley! How in the world do these ancient threads get resurrected? This one is over 5 1/2 years old.
Some issues stand the test of time
 

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use the traxxion spring kit i think you will like it more then the progressive kit......but thats just me
 
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