[jeffersonbiker]

My 2003 won't start. All was fine, I shut it off and went to start again and nothing. No click, no fire. I replaced the battery after it tested bad, but I have not charged the new battery and everything works - radio, lights, etc. I replaced the start button switch because I had to hit a certain spot on the button for a while for it to start, so I thought it had just finally gone bad and my cruise button was bad anyway. It still doesn't start. Any ideas before I keep replacing parts? It is in neutral, the kill switch is not in the kill position and I checked the fuses.

 

[RogerC]

"but I have not charged the new battery and "

Typically, new batteries need to be charged. Your new battery probably isn't any better than the old one until you do a full charge. Then, you can start troubleshooting if it does not start.

 

[jeffersonbiker]

Thank you. I'm sure that's the next step. i just moved cross country on my bike after being out of work and now out of money, so no tools, etc. I plan on charging it at work tomorrow. It just seems like I would have gotten a crank or something with the new one. I'll give it a try!

 

[revrunt]

My 2003 won't start. All was fine, I shut it off and went to start again and nothing. No click, no fire. I replaced the battery after it tested bad, but I have not charged the new battery and everything works - radio, lights, etc. I replaced the start button switch because I had to hit a certain spot on the button for a while for it to start, so I thought it had just finally gone bad and my cruise button was bad anyway. It still doesn't start. In order to understand your problem, this statement needs clarification. Do you still have no click, no starter kicking in or is it turning over but not starting? Do the headlights go out when you hit the starter switch? Have you checked the sidestand switch? Is the neutral light on? Is the reverse button depressed? Any ideas before I keep replacing parts? Yes. Find someone who can help you troubleshoot the starting system. It is complex, but not rocket science. You will go broke if all you do is keep throwing parts at it. Keep posting on here and systematically answer every question you are asked. There are some really talented troubleshooters here. It is in neutral, the kill switch is not in the kill position and I checked the fuses.

You will find it if you keep doing a step at a time! :thumbup:

ps... do you have jumper cables? Have you tried to jump start it form a full charged battery? what happened? (happens?)

 

[techdude2000]

You said it's in neutral, is the neutral light on? If it is on, then that eliminates the reverse system switch, the reverse actuator limit switch, and the gear position switch. Even a new weak battery will click the "A" starter relay. There's something else wrong. I would put your original battery back in it and do some voltage checks. Do you have a hand held volt/ohm meter? You are going to need one if not. Even Walmart sells a cheap meter that can be useful for these kinds of basic checks. Your bike can be fixed, it just might take some time.

 

[moonrunner]

check the side stand switch, that's usually what it is

 

[31261]

Thank you. I'm sure that's the next step. i just moved cross country on my bike after being out of work and now out of money, so no tools, etc. I plan on charging it at work tomorrow. It just seems like I would have gotten a crank or something with the new one. I'll give it a try!

Sometimes a battery will light the lights , run the radio and so on but not have the voltage to crank the bike .

A new battery sitting and not charge may be low on voltage so first step is to make sure the battery is fully charged.

But, But.........but..........ya know no click......hum?? Generally will click the relay.

So battery charged, double check the fuses, use a tester on them they can look good and not be good.
Connections to the start relay might be loose or dirty or something. Assume battery connections are secure with a new battery.

I bet.......replaced the start switch, go check that, I bet.........yep........Do the headlights dim or go out when you push start swith(low beam) if not the switch .

 

[techdude2000]

check the side stand switch, that's usually what it is

Except when it is in neutral. The ground from the sidestand plays no part in the start circuit if the transmission is in neutral.

 

[jeffersonbiker]

I have been trying everything with the kickstand and clutch, kill switch, etc. I am encouraged that when I started taking it apart - again and heard a slight click with the seat off, so I think charging will do the trick I hope. The battery guy thought it should start without a charge, but I think that's the problem. And no, i don't have cables either. Everything I own was on my bike and cables didn't make the list. Thank you all for your input and I'll let you know tomorrow! Cross your fingers - I am!

 

[techdude2000]

Be sure and keep your charging current at no more than 2A. :thumbup: If it still won't start after the charge, I have a couple of things for you to check, please keep us posted.

 

[jeffersonbiker]

Well, I took the battery to the Wing Enterprises this morning. It read 12.6 when I dropped it off, they charged it for the day and I got it back at 13.7. Bike still doesn't start, but there is a click at the middle / back of the bike when I try. Motor doesn't try to start, starter motor doesn't turn, lights do dim when I hit the button. Is in neutral, reverse is off, kickstand up or down, no difference. Is there a switch there I should be checking? Kill switch is not off. Tried it in gear with clutch in and kickstand up. Still notta......

 

[techdude2000]

OK, is the reverse light blinking?

 

[jeffersonbiker]

No, reverse light is not blinking.

 

[techdude2000]

Do you have a volt meter handy?

 

[jeffersonbiker]

No, but I could go get one.

 

[techdude2000]

OK, what I want you to do after you get the meter. Set it for DC volts and I need you to hook the ground lead to the battery's ground connection and the positive will go to fuse #12 in the fuse box. Turn on the key with it in neutral, hit the starter button and watch the meter. When you hear that click near the battery you should see the meter read the battery voltage. If you don't get anything, try the other side of the fuse. If you still don't get anything, your "A" starter relay either has a loose cable connection or the contacts are toast. If you do get battery voltage, we will have to do some more checks to see why the "B" starter relay isn't energizing. I hate to leave you hanging right now, but the SO says we need to eat, so I'll check back in a little while and see what you found with the meter. :thumbup:

 

[jeffersonbiker]

Haha, no problem. It will take a bit to get that done. I am not too close to anywhere to get the meter, but I will find one. I appreciate the help!

 

[jeffersonbiker]

The meter didn't move during any of those tests. It did go clear to the other end of the meter when I moved the dial on the meter with the key on, but without hitting the start button. Then just one side of the fuse made the needle max out.

 

[techdude2000]

OK, pull that fuse out and see if it is blown and then try the test again with the fuse out of the box. One side of the fuse holder should read battery power only when you hit the starter button. You can pull fuse #9 to kill the headlights to keep from draining the battery too much during these tests. Set your meter range a little higher so it doesn't peg the needle.

 

[jeffersonbiker]

I had actually tried it with the fuse out the first time, but i just checked the fuse and replaced even though it looked good and still no movement of the meter.