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Discussion Starter #1
Tonight on the way to a ball game I noticed my on-board honda marine Volt meter was giving various readings between 12V - 14V. Historically that volt meter has always read a hair over 14V. I rode the approx. 10 miles home from the ball park and before I shut the bike off I obtained the following from the battery terminals:

At idle - 14.1V
At 2000 rpm - 14.25V

After engine was turned off - 13.3V

When I plugged in the battery tender it indicated the battery was charged (as did my volt meter).

Before I shut the bike off I checked for FI codes using the neutral/kickstand method-nada.

It looks like all the numbers are within spec and wonder if perhaps my on board Volt meter took a dump.

This is a 2004 Level 1 with approx. 102k miles. A new OEM battery was installed in May, 2009 with 55,110 miles on the bike.

Any thoughts/input appreciated. Thanks is advance.
 

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I have had two of the Honda Marine volt meters go south.

The first one I had boot legged into the power outlet under the left pocket and it would fluctuate at idle with the headlight modulator. That finally finished the first one off.

Got another one and wired it direct from the accessory outlets on the fuse panel. It lived about a year.

I now have the one from EC and it has done fine.

From the readings you have I would highly suspect the volt meter. Or the voltage regulator in the alternator.
 

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The first thing you do is run a check on is the meter,especially if it's an anolog meter.They may work in cages,but can't stand the vibrating enviorment of a motorcycle long term.
Digital is the way to go-solid state holds up better in my opinion.
Mine is sealed in epoxy.(datel)

After having two whacky meters on past wings myself, I went with digital not only on my bike but suggest them to others too,not one of them has had to be replaced yet.I'm talking about a dozen or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks to all. I am thinking it is the voltmeter. Went for a ride today and all was normal. I also got out another of my DMMs and checked the bike only to discover that there is a .12V difference between the results reported from my two meters (crap). Now I have to figure out which one is off.
 

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Same results with digital voltmeter on my 2006 wing. Took 3 dealers during our troubles to diagnose a alternator was going out. Just surfaced on 2007 with sweeps from 13.8 to 14.4 when normal is 14.5 to 14.6 with 0 fluctuation.

4 what it is worth I would keep an eye on the charging system
 

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Richard, you very well could have a voltmeter that is going bad, or just a bad connection at the battery. But you have just pointed out one of my big beefs with the Electrical Connection voltmeter.

At least a couple of people on this board that I am aware of have been burned by that meter being plugged into the heated grip connector. Since the meter shares its connection with other devices on the bike, it is susceptible to reading fluctuations caused by the slight voltage drop in the wiring. It creates a lot of unnecessary anxiety, and causes owners to head in the wrong direction when troubleshooting a problem.

Personally, if I were to buy one of these, the first thing I would do is cut off the plug, splice in two longer wires, and hook the meter up to the accessory terminals on the fuse block. This is the only way to be certain you are reading the actual battery and alternator voltage. If you want to monitor a voltage, then you have to measure it as close to that device as possible, not just some randomly convenient point that has 12 volts on it.

I understand that Lewis tries to make installing accessories as easy as possible for owners. But in this case I don't think he is doing anyone any favors with this hookup method. It causes the meter to become eye candy only, instead of a useful gauge that you can trust.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
DJ, thanks for that advice, and, yes, I will keep an eye on it. I don't need issues on some of my 1000 mile trips @ 2 A.M.

Larry, thanks for the tip on re-wire to accessory terminal. I am going to do that. Even if it turns out my gauge is bad, at least I'll already have the wiring where it should be.
 

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When you rewire it, if EC doesn't haven an inline fuse holder installed, add one to the end of the wire. A 1 amp fuse is more than enough. Voltmeters don't pull any appreciable current. The fuse is just there to protect the wiring.

Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
When you rewire it, if EC doesn't haven an inline fuse holder installed, add one to the end of the wire. A 1 amp fuse is more than enough. Voltmeters don't pull any appreciable current. The fuse is just there to protect the wiring.

Good Luck.
:thumbup:Thanks Larry.
 

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