my (new to me) 2018 6sp tour has quite a loud howl during braking. Sounds like tupperware amplifying brake noise. I very seldom use the rear brake, there is little or no vibration and the brakes are very effective. Gentle braking is quiet but hauling it done at anything over 80kph is loud. 5500km on the bike, I will take the calipers off this week (rain for the next 5 days) for a closer look at the pads and rotors. It is difficult to get a good look at the pads in situ.
BMcGoldwing
Your description sounds like the brakes on my 2022 Tour. I’ve gotten accustomed to it. Hardly notice it anymore. I hope it is “normal.”
You said you rarely use the back brake, I would encourage you to use it a lot more. It really helps with slow speed control. Some good videos out there I think it would really help your control.
I think braking howl as you call it is normal on the Goldwing and several other bike bikes including my old K1600's. Where that noise really comes from is open to speculation, but I believe it is from the rotors and can be amplified by bodywork. Looking at the Goldwing there is a tunnel from the front wheel straight up to the operator for noise to travel. On a new(er) bike I wouldn't be too concerned about it, but one should know what type of condition your brake system is in for proper operation and piece of mind.
In emergency braking operation ALL brakes should be used together to get maximum effective braking. Some people don't bother using the rear brake in normal everyday riding, but I don't believe that is a good thing. Muscle memory only works by doing the same thing over and over again until it is automatic. NOT using the rear brake in routine riding can result in NOT using it when you really need it. You haven't "programmed" yourself to use it instinctively. While it is true that most "experts" and motorcycle manufacturers claim the rear brake is only worth 10 to 20 percent of your braking efficiency, that may mean the difference between hitting something and not hitting something. There are also times when you should rely only on the rear brake, but that's another subject.
Rick H.
In emergency braking operation ALL brakes should be used together to get maximum effective braking. Some people don't bother using the rear brake in normal everyday riding, but I don't believe that is a good thing. Muscle memory only works by doing the same thing over and over again until it is automatic. NOT using the rear brake in routine riding can result in NOT using it when you really need it. You haven't "programmed" yourself to use it instinctively. While it is true that most "experts" and motorcycle manufacturers claim the rear brake is only worth 10 to 20 percent of your braking efficiency, that may mean the difference between hitting something and not hitting something. There are also times when you should rely only on the rear brake, but that's another subject.
Rick H.
FWIW, I get the grinding howling sound even when using the rear brake pedal alone. Some front brake is involved no matter what, and the rear brake probably contributes to the noise also.
My personal opinion is, the noise comes from the holes in the rotors grinding past the pads. It is amplified through the unusual design of fork, up through the fairing opening, direct to the ears of the rider. Other motorcycles make similar noises, but the fork design is the difference. Traditional telescopic forks keep most of the racket down on the street. Goldwing forks bring it right up.
My personal opinion is, the noise comes from the holes in the rotors grinding past the pads. It is amplified through the unusual design of fork, up through the fairing opening, direct to the ears of the rider. Other motorcycles make similar noises, but the fork design is the difference. Traditional telescopic forks keep most of the racket down on the street. Goldwing forks bring it right up.
You always use the rear brake, unless you somehow managed to disengage the linked braking system.
As for the noise, since it is a new to you bike, a previous owner may have replaced the brake pads with non-OEM pads. That could result in a less than quiet braking experience. Or not.
The noise, while annoying , is nothing to worry about. This Bike Stops on a Dime, and gives nine cents change! Braking is linked, still you need to practice rear braking because if your bike is leaned over and you grab front brake you're setting yourself up for a very bad day. If cornering a little too hot, the only way to save is brake from the rear. If you're going sub 5 mph and grab too much front it's not going to be a Goode day just like I mentioned already. In the old days front brakes on choppers were left off, commonly the front end extended was a magnifier of "Don't use the front brake when wheel is turned"! Bikes are much more fun nowadays! Enjoy your fine ride.
The front brake calipers are attached to a huge hallow sound chamber that amplifies the noise of the pad friction. Think acoustic guitar or violin.......
I am by no means any form of an expert in this subject but I too experience the "Howel" when strong front braking is applied. I myself doubt very seriously that it's the front rotors making any of the noise. If I had to make some form of an educated guess, I'd bet quite a bit on the front tire/tread being forced into the pavement. I have no real scientific data to support my theory or any other type of proof. But, applying the front brake agressively will do it every single time. My brakes are in perfect shape and to the best of my knowledge, do not produce any form of noise no matter how hard I apply them.
If there was a way to put a microphone right close to the contact point of that front tread, I'd surely think you'd hear normal contact noise as the bike is cruising along. But, hit those front brakes somewhat agressively and, well, it's my thoughts anyways.
Scott
If there was a way to put a microphone right close to the contact point of that front tread, I'd surely think you'd hear normal contact noise as the bike is cruising along. But, hit those front brakes somewhat agressively and, well, it's my thoughts anyways.
Scott
The howling is normal with OEM pads. I changed to Niche pads in the front and no more howling. Just powerful brakes.
If you have ever attended an Experienced Riding Course or even a Beginners Course you should know to use the rear brake often. This is especially true for the Goldwing. They teach and I have taught that you come to a complete stop at a stop sign or red light or any where else that you use both Rear and Front brakes to slow you down and then the final few feet you only use the rear brakes and when you come to a final rolling stop you put your left foot down and then the right foot down off the brake pedal. Now, on the Goldwing (2001-2017) with Link Braking, each of the three calipers has two pistons. The front brake actuates only one piston on both front calipers. The rear brake actuates both rear pistons and one each on the front calipers and the anti-dive. You know this by how you bleed the brakes. So, what I'm saying is use the rear brake more often. It is especially better to use it when in the corners riding in the Texas Hill Country. If you use only the Front brake to slow you down in the corners the bike wants to go straight instead of making the corner easier.
I can always tell a newby rider no matter what the bike when they come to a stop and they waddle up to the stop with both feet down using only the front brake. Their are afraid of falling over, (I guess) and their right foot is not touching the brake pedal because it is flying out there like a right side side stand that they wish they had.
I can always tell a newby rider no matter what the bike when they come to a stop and they waddle up to the stop with both feet down using only the front brake. Their are afraid of falling over, (I guess) and their right foot is not touching the brake pedal because it is flying out there like a right side side stand that they wish they had.
I suspect engine braking is applied when a certain amount of front brakes is applied because the bike brakes suddenly bites more when the howling appears. The front brakes bites at a certain point. Before and after this point you can control the brake very nice
But what @jryan19 is wrote does not strengthen my statement.
About using the front brakes in corners. Yes offcourse but it is all about smoothness. Apply the front brake smoothly and release it smoothly. Then nothing strange happens. Downhill the rear brake alone is not enough.
The famous trailbraking relies on smooth usage.
But what @jryan19 is wrote does not strengthen my statement.
About using the front brakes in corners. Yes offcourse but it is all about smoothness. Apply the front brake smoothly and release it smoothly. Then nothing strange happens. Downhill the rear brake alone is not enough.
The famous trailbraking relies on smooth usage.
The sound is normal, but produced only under very hard braking conditions.
It is not a “howl” or “whine” as some have described it. It is a “groan.” If you have never had to brake extremely hard, the brakes are quiet and don’t make any sound.
I surmise the “groan” is the result of the brake pads’ particular compound interacting with the metal of the discs. It’s normal.
Tim
It is not a “howl” or “whine” as some have described it. It is a “groan.” If you have never had to brake extremely hard, the brakes are quiet and don’t make any sound.
I surmise the “groan” is the result of the brake pads’ particular compound interacting with the metal of the discs. It’s normal.
Tim
Hello, proud owner of a 2023 Goldwing Tour DCT. Once I drove it off the lot, I heard the 'for better word' noise when braking. Smooth gentle braking if fine, but that's not always possible. Glad I saw this post because now I know it is normal or at least a lot of other people have noticed it and accepted it as it is and there's nothing wrong. Still a very weird sound that I never got out of my other Goldwing's.
I must say, as gorgeous as this bike is (I also own a 2003 Goldwing), the seat on the 2003 is way more comfortable and way less maintenance. It has 75,000 miles on it and is vinyl and looks new. On the 2023 I've had for a few days and already has scuffs on it and that is being careful
.
I must say, as gorgeous as this bike is (I also own a 2003 Goldwing), the seat on the 2003 is way more comfortable and way less maintenance. It has 75,000 miles on it and is vinyl and looks new. On the 2023 I've had for a few days and already has scuffs on it and that is being careful
.Unless something has changed in the realm of linked brakes, the best most efficient way of obtaining maximum threshold braking is to apply both brakes, front AND rear at just about the same time. Using just one dramatically reduces the amount of braking power, or efficiency. From years of police riding and teaching I still find that in a dramatic braking moment I apply my front brake just before I apply the rear to get front end weight shift going in my favor. The best way of doing this is front brake application first followed almost immediately by rear brake application. This method of brake application was instilled in me a long time ago by some very good instructors and it still holds true today.
Braking in a curve is something that we all do and no doubt will continue to do, but there are certain limitations to braking in a curve. This has somewhat changed with the advent of certain high end ABS systems that allow hard braking in a curve, but absent that we can still brake in a curve as long as we don't overdo it, or panic. For most riders who find themselves in trouble in a curve and need maximum braking efficiency, the best course of action is to stand the bike upright and properly apply both brakes. This can be quite difficult to do for a lot of riders as our first thought is to negotiate the curve with secondary thought given to braking. When it finally dawns on them to brake it is either too little too late, or they completely blow the application of their brakes and jump on them. This is where a little track time can really help out when trying to learn how to negotiate curves and brake in a curve. Most often setup for a curve can be the biggest help of all and never ride over your experience level. Remember too that you should base your speed on how far you can see through a curve. Ride safe and practice braking as much as you can.
Rick H.
Braking in a curve is something that we all do and no doubt will continue to do, but there are certain limitations to braking in a curve. This has somewhat changed with the advent of certain high end ABS systems that allow hard braking in a curve, but absent that we can still brake in a curve as long as we don't overdo it, or panic. For most riders who find themselves in trouble in a curve and need maximum braking efficiency, the best course of action is to stand the bike upright and properly apply both brakes. This can be quite difficult to do for a lot of riders as our first thought is to negotiate the curve with secondary thought given to braking. When it finally dawns on them to brake it is either too little too late, or they completely blow the application of their brakes and jump on them. This is where a little track time can really help out when trying to learn how to negotiate curves and brake in a curve. Most often setup for a curve can be the biggest help of all and never ride over your experience level. Remember too that you should base your speed on how far you can see through a curve. Ride safe and practice braking as much as you can.
Rick H.
What a rider hears from the cockpit is greatly influenced by the windscreen. Size, shape, and position. This, coupled with uncertain states of hearing loss in riders, accounts for most of the varying descriptions. From, “I hear nothing,” to “it drives me insane!”
Also, helmet design. Earplugs. Ambient racket. I could go on.
I currently own and ride two Gen6 Wings. One a DCT the other a MT. Both make the brake noise, and the noise varies with windscreen position and whether I’m using my stock screen or the large Honda touring screen.
Also, helmet design. Earplugs. Ambient racket. I could go on.
I currently own and ride two Gen6 Wings. One a DCT the other a MT. Both make the brake noise, and the noise varies with windscreen position and whether I’m using my stock screen or the large Honda touring screen.
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