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Changing tail light bulbs

9.9K views 16 replies 12 participants last post by  kmassey  
#1 ·
One of my bulbs in the left saddle bag was out so I set out to replace it. I removed the bulb and replaced
it,without any problems. So in my infinite wisdom, and because it's an 02, I dicided to change all the tail light bulbs. The saddle bag lights were no problem, but the trunk lights were a difirent story. I tried but I couldn't loosen the cap nuts, not without breaking something, or stripping the studs. So I left it alone. I don't have any burnt out lights on the trunk, yet, but I got the bike in August of 01 and it has 80,000 miles, so it's just a matter of time before one does burn out.

Has this been an ongoing problem and how is it corrected? Is this a manufacturing defect, and will the dealer repair even after warranty has expired? Has there been any recalls about this?

I was thinking of taking bike to dealer to have them replace the bulbs, and if they break something it's there fault and they will eat the repair cost. Or is this just wishfull thinking
 
#2 ·
Breaking those studs trying to replace the taillights must be a big problem. I have read about it several times on here, but have not tried it myself.

If mine go out, I am taking it to the dealer. Honda designed it that way, so they can deal with it.
 
#3 ·
Are you talking about the three "acorn nuts" in the trunk?
... or the base of the bulb sockets once
you get the nuts off and the taillight housing out?

The base of the bulb sockets are "sealed"
with an O-ring and are VERY hard to twist
but they will (only a 1/4 turn to release)

The acorn nuts should be pretty easy.

I've removed them on my 2007
and just recently on my 2008
without any problems.

Nothing special... but I use a very small
quarter inch socket wrench for most
all work on the bike so I can't "twist" too hard.

Wonder what is different (other than age?)
with yours ...?

Dennis
 
#4 ·
mine started burning out the first time shortly after 100,000 miles

one by one i replaced them all as they burned out

got lucky, never had any of the problems getting them out that many others have had

this spring round #2 started and i've replaced 4 so far

i bought and carry a 8mm nut driver in the trunk just for that purpose
 
#6 ·
BruceW;

DO NOT break them loose. Shoot some Liquid Wrench or Kroil back in the recessed areas and repeat for several days. Apply only moderate loosening force to them and if they do not give, repeat the penetrant. Sooner or later the nuts will spin right off. Since you lights are working, there is no rush. One of mine was stuck and it took two weeks before it just spun right off.

prs
 
#8 ·
If they tightened to much at the factory and the bolt is not holding on the inside of the housing and the entire thing is spinning liquid wrench won't do any good, I checked all mine on my 08 so if I had a problem it would be taken care of under warranty, they are all O.K.
 
#9 ·
Had same problem on my 02. Had to use cordless drill and keep turning nut while pulling out on tail light housing. Finally got hot enough to pull housing off. Taillight housing is about $40 from Hal
 
#10 ·
On my '05 there are little access doors under the assembly inside the trunk. Pry one down and you have access to both light bulb sockets.
I hope this works for you!
Good Luck!
 
#11 ·
will the liquid wrench do any damage to the plastic of the trunk?
Liquid Wrence and WD-40 were used on mine with no ill effects. If the stud is already spinning, this trick will not work; but if yours is just stuck, this will eventually unstick it. Since the plastic seals so well, it may take awhile for the penetrant to leak into the threads.

prs
 
#12 ·
My 2001 was just out of warranty at purchase, however the dealer did replace the complete assembly under sufferance.
This was not the first time I had heard of the acorn nuts being tightened too firmly "from the factory".Several friends had younger bikes...2003-2004 where the acorns were too tight.Turning the acorns with any force eventually spun the studs in the plastic.No amount of penetrating lube would free them.
Only solution was to break the lense to be able to get to the rear of the studs to hold them. Of course this means complete assembly replacement. Personally I would press the issue with honda....it was a factory fault!You may get lucky.
 
#14 ·
Geeze Ozwig;

I am not fibbing! The penetrant WILL (at least in one case) do the job, my bike is living proof. It may take a looooooonnnnnnnnnng time; but it will work. Now, if you must get the nut off in one afternoon; tha go ahead and destroy parts; but if the bulb is functioning and you have noticed the nut is stuck, what is the harm in applying penetrant and patience?

But even you are going to destroy parts, don't wreck the lense. Melt out the stud or grind off the nut.

prs