You realize this is a CAN buss motorcycle..Right??:smile2:

 

Absolutely, that’s why I am asking the question. The Clearwater lights has its own relays wired directly to the battery. It monitors the Highbeam wire as a signal wire to trigger the lights for high beam operations. It does not pull load from the highbeam circuit. BMW riders have used them for years, they even integrate into the Wonderwheel via a can-opener.

Just trying to do some research so I will know what I don’t know, that’s the things that will hurt.

 

That does not mean that he can't do what he wants if he finds the right wire. I had a Canbus on my BMW and I believe that the kit came with resistors that spoofed the Canbus into not complaining. I found that you had to just try with the Canbus to see if it worked.

 

What is stock location? Do you mean the fog light location?

 

While checking for the same thing on my bike, I found that the Hi Beam fuse goes hot with the high/low switch. I would think that you could tap off the downstream side of the fuse to power a solid state relay. From what I’ve heard, the power from the fuse goes back through one of the control units that monitors the amperage.

I just looked in the electrical troubleshooting manual, and the wire going to the high beam is blue. The low beam is yellow/black.

 

Thank you, I will check with clearwater to verify that the sensor wire does not change 'any' load on the wire it is monitoring. This would be a perfect location to tap for me. That way I would not have to remove all the tupperware to get asset to the plug on the back of the headlight.

Thanks for the education, I meant no harm, just wondering.:smile2:

No Worries, Fair statement. Thats how we all learn. I have been privileged to read so many post for all of you that have taught me things without me having to ask.

What is the part # for the Clearwater lights? Thanks

Here is the link to the Clearwater lights. This is a fantastic company to deal with, Highly recommended. https://www.clearwaterlights.com/products/darla-honda-goldwing . I have the set of Darlas' and also a Set of Erica/Krista. I had all of them mounted on my Victory, but removed them when I bought my Wing. I mounted the Darlas' on the Wing in the stock fog light location in the lower cowl, perfect fit. The Erica/Krista set I mounted on my V-Strom in preparation for it's journey from Key West, FL to Deadhorse, AK next June on the Ultimate Coast to Coast ride. (Wish I could take the Wing, but i don't want to expose her to the Dalton Hwy)

What is stock location? Do you mean the fog light location?

Yes, exactly, in the lower cowl.

 

Have you read what Lewis of Electrical Connections said about why he will not be plugging into the factory wiring on the 2018 Goldwing?
https://electricalconnection.com/index.php/2018/09/12/2018-honda-goldwing-not-plug-play/

 

Thank you for the link. I have read it, Yes. This is the very reason I will not just look for the wire with a probe. But understand that the products EC sells are doing the very same thing that I am trying to accomplish here. I.E. Accessory is powered outside of the Canbus and isolated from the system. This can easily be accomplished with a diode and a resistor, that would allow for the trigger wire to read the status of voltage on the Highbeam circuit and let the light controller handle the power demands on its own.

 

Interesting thread. I'll be putting fog lights on mine this winter and the Clearwater Darlas are what I'm leaning towards right now.

 

Blue Bird Bill, I did the same trip last year on my HD ultra, with a passenger. 14500 miles in 7 ½ weeks. The Alcan Highway and the Dalton are not that bad.... My HD had rear Ohlins, and handled the detours and the gravel sections with out any problem ..... Also,, because the days are so long, we never had to ride in the dark...PS. distances between fuel wasn't a problem; I used a CT and had absolutely no problems. In fact, I enjoyed the trip so much I might go back next July August on my GW

 

Still hoping to (simply) find the high beam headlight wire, preferably under the seat where the big bundle is. Anyone???

 

There is a 6 wire connector connected to back of the headlight. You can see it by looking down through the tunnel area. The is a LIGHT BLUE wire that is the hi-beam power wire. I tapped into this wire for my Clearwater lights and it works great.

 

There is a 6 wire connector connected to back of the headlight. You can see it by looking down through the tunnel area. The is a LIGHT BLUE wire that is the hi-beam power wire. I tapped into this wire for my Clearwater lights and it works great.

THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!


I kept looking at that wire bundle and kept thinking it was too easy, I figured they had to be wires like what was on the Honda ST1300, for the little 'cat eyes'. I figured the low and high beam wire bundle was under the seat and the appropriate wires running up under the front plastic.


I have now isolated the high beam wire and now I can use it for my trigger source for my LED light dimmer. THANKS!!

 

Thanks also!

 

Interesting thread for ideas. I have a Flash-to-Pass garage door opener that was on my 2012 Wing. I e-mailed the company about using it on the 2018 Wing high beam switch but they said not compatible with canbus. From what I see on this thread, I can possibly use the high beam wire or better yet the high beam fuse location to power a solid state relay and wire the Flash-to-Pass on an isolated circuit controlled by the relay? That would be great - I could still use the high beam switch and not have to install stand alone switch just for the Flash-to-Pass. What do you think? Thanks in advance for all suggestions!

 

I used FTP on 2 BMWs with Canbus with no special tricks or relays. I put one on my 2018, no problem. I ended up using an old garage door opener triggered and powered by the High Beam wire across the door opener battery terminals, FTP style. No problem. The old door opener gave me greater range. I know there are many dire warnings on the forum about Canbus. I am just saying I did what I did. I tapped into the HB wire at the plug down in the tunnel where it connects to the HB assy. I flash once instead of twice. If the HB are already on I still just squeeze the trigger once.

 

I would NOT tap into anything on a Canbus system (and I've had a Canbus system for a long time with my GSA) without using a RELAY;


The relay is used to pull power from the battery instead of the canbus while the trigger wire to activate the relay, can be pretty much anything (not brake lights) since it won't be used to pull enough power to cause a problem to the canbus.

 

This is what the wires look like at the connector.