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Neotec/Sena SRL battery replacement

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28K views 33 replies 22 participants last post by  howrad  
#1 ·
The SRL has been on the market for 6+ years and Sena is still refusing to provide a replacement battery, maintaining the position that it is not replaceable. I had my complete headset replaced under their 2 year warranty when the original battery failed but after the warranty expires they just say buy a new headset when the battery no longer holds a charge.
My battery life is now less than 3 hours so did a quick search and found an aftermarket battery on eBay for $27, ordered it and can report it works fine. It is actually higher amp hr rating and the first charge went over 12 hrs of use. Just do a search on eBay for SRL battery, seller was Kindly-store and it was in stock in California, arrived in Florida in 5 days with free shipping.
The battery is replaceable, plug and play actually, but does require removing and disassembling the holder. Small screwdriver is provided with the battery.
Image

New battery is above, original beneath.
Image

The battery simply plugs into the Sena circuit board and tucks nicely back into the housing. Sorry, no photo of it installed, be sure to take a photo of the housing with the cover removed so you get it back together properly.
 
#2 ·
@gv550 valuable information and lead, I just placed an order for a future replacement! Thanks
 
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#4 ·
Wow Garry, great information! I'm going to place my order now. I'm still using my original that is four years old, but only holds a charge for 6 or 8 hours of very light use. CB and GPS, no music.
 
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#10 ·
The SRL and SLR-2 also go in the J-Cruise / J-Cruise II, and GT Air helmets as well as the NeoTech and NeoTech II helments.
 
#11 ·
@gv550

Battery indicates SRL2. Does this also work with the first SRL?
 
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#14 ·
@gv550

Thanks for the quick response. Just ordered one.
 
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#16 ·
Less inventory and more profit for Sana...not replaceable and just replace...

3.7v battery with same connector will fit, as long as dimensions allow.

One of the reasons why I opted to NOT get this headset when I bought my NeotecII, which added additional few hundred $$$ to already expensive and nearing it's life cycle helmet.

Good info for those who dished out the extra $$$👍
 
#17 ·
I use my Sena 10 all the time when I'm riding with greyhound, (Larry) we just ride and talk, and totally enjoy ourselves......(bike 2 bike).......I never use it for the music, I listen to the bike speakers. and only if I get a incoming telephone call, I then use it for the phone purpose.. just to answer... When I was in the HVAC heating/cooling, business, I was really using it to answer calls, BUT now that I retired, I don't have to talk to anybody while riding.............. God do I love R-E-T-I-R-E-M-E-N-T

Ronnie
2/18/22
 
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#18 ·
Well, good to know it is possible to replace these batteries, but unfortunately for me this seller won't ship to Canada :mad:. Hopefully I'll be able to find one internationally.
 
#21 ·
I changed mine out and have some tips that might help:

- As Garry said, take photos as you take it apart. They can save you confusion later. I only took the one below once I had the cover off.
Image


- I actually forgot exactly how to get the rear "pod" out of the helmet. You push that little tab forward (towards the front of the helmet), but it does not pop right out. There is another tab in the rear of the pod that has to come free - so, you have to get your fingers under the front edges of the pod and lift and tilt it back a little to get it free. Not a big deal, but it helps to know before you try to take it out.

- There are just 4 little screws to take the pod apart. I was afraid I would have to pry something apart.

- My main concern was damaging the circuit board. I pulled it out by grabbing on the edges and pulling it out like you would a saltine cracker.

- Note that the circuit board slots into two about 1/4" slots in the bottom of the pod. You need to make sure it goes back into those slots when you reassemble it.

- Be careful disconnecting and reconnecting the little battery connector. It tried to get my fingernail under the lip of it and pull up. I am not sure if that did the trick, but eventually it pulled out. To connect the new one, I supported the board underneath with my finger, but I tried to keep any pressure off of the computer chip that is near that edge. You can tell when it is seated correctly because it will be even with the other connector next to it.

- The most fiddly part was getting it back together. The wires that come out of the sides are difficult to get back just the way they were. This is where more photos would have helped me. I made sure the wires inside were "up" towards the circuit board - I think that is the way they should go, but correct me if I am wrong. It is tough to get those rubber grommets in place until you actually get the cover in place - once you do that you can move them into place and see how they are supposed to sit.

- It helps if you can have someone to help you put the screws back in while you hold the pod and cover in place. I did it myself, but it would be easier with one to hold it together and another to put the screws in.

- The screws should go in easy, otherwise you are pinching something in there. The lower two do have some resistance as you get further down because the cover is pinching the rubber grommets a little (it is supposed to).

- So far, so good, everything works fine. I charged the battery before I turned it on and it only took a few minutes to charge.

- Hope this helps :)
 
#22 ·
I changed mine out and have some tips that might help:

- As Garry said, take photos as you take it apart. They can save you confusion later. I only took the one below once I had the cover off.
View attachment 396772

- I actually forgot exactly how to get the rear "pod" out of the helmet. You push that little tab forward (towards the front of the helmet), but it does not pop right out. There is another tab in the rear of the pod that has to come free - so, you have to get your fingers under the front edges of the pod and lift and tilt it back a little to get it free. Not a big deal, but it helps to know before you try to take it out.

- There are just 4 little screws to take the pod apart. I was afraid I would have to pry something apart.

- My main concern was damaging the circuit board. I pulled it out by grabbing on the edges and pulling it out like you would a saltine cracker.

- Note that the circuit board slots into two about 1/4" slots in the bottom of the pod. You need to make sure it goes back into those slots when you reassemble it.

- Be careful disconnecting and reconnecting the little battery connector. It tried to get my fingernail under the lip of it and pull up. I am not sure if that did the trick, but eventually it pulled out. To connect the new one, I supported the board underneath with my finger, but I tried to keep any pressure off of the computer chip that is near that edge. You can tell when it is seated correctly because it will be even with the other connector next to it.

- The most fiddly part was getting it back together. The wires that come out of the sides are difficult to get back just the way they were. This is where more photos would have helped me. I made sure the wires inside were "up" towards the circuit board - I think that is the way they should go, but correct me if I am wrong. It is tough to get those rubber grommets in place until you actually get the cover in place - once you do that you can move them into place and see how they are supposed to sit.

- It helps if you can have someone to help you put the screws back in while you hold the pod and cover in place. I did it myself, but it would be easier with one to hold it together and another to put the screws in.

- The screws should go in easy, otherwise you are pinching something in there. The lower two do have some resistance as you get further down because the cover is pinching the rubber grommets a little (it is supposed to).

- So far, so good, everything works fine. I charged the battery before I turned it on and it only took a few minutes to charge.

- Hope this helps :)
 
#23 ·
Hi... thanks for the info and help.... finally got the circuit board seated properly which i think was my problem putting the pod back together. Fiddly.... for sure. Loosely screwed one side down then seated the wires into place on both sides. then put the other 3 screws in after dropping 1 a couple of times into the helmet. That was fun. Anyway, listened to music, made some calls and charging. Thanks again!!
ira
 
#24 ·
Great Info Guys! Thx. I just got a Neotec II and put in the SRL unit also. Only diff with SLR2 is it comes with a small lead mike to attach inside a full face helmet. Thx for info on battery replacement which I think I will order sooner than later. They say the OEM battery does not have the life of a Cardo, etc,(10 hrs +) but the Sena reputation and helmet integration draws in a lot of rider Best Wishes.
 
#26 ·
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#29 ·
I received the spare battery and tried to install it. I am not mechanical or good with my hands. When I removed the tab where the battery clips into the circuit board I broke the receptacle the tab clips into off of the circuit board. Now I am trying to decide whether to try to solder it back on or just give up and get a new SRL unit.
 
#30 ·
If you can't solder it back on yourself, you might be able to find someone who does. Just a couple of thoughts that come to mind..... We have a local television/electronics repair shop that will work on most anything. We have both a vocational school and community college with electronics-related programs who I know have fixed one-off things for people in the past. There is also a local radio-controlled airplane club with a few old-timers who can solder delicate electronics. Let us know how you get it resolved.