[Johnny S]

My apology if this has been covered before. My 2010 ABS came from the factory with a Yuasa GYZ20L even though the Honda parts lists show the Yuasa YTX20L-BS to be OEM. Yuasa's own cross reference chart shows the G series to be an upgrade over the Y series unit, but at the same time lists the Y battery at 270 CCA and the G battery at only 250 CCA. How is that an upgrade? However, the weight is 4.0 lbs. heavier for the G unit which is due to heavier plates, thus a more powerful and longer lasting battery according to Fred Harmon.

I'm reluctant to downgrade the battery in my bike even though I know a lighter battery will probably do the job adequately. (I'm running loads of accessories) The best price I've found on the GYZ20L is $89 through Amazon Prime. The YTX20L-BS can be purchased much cheaper, but at 7-8 year replacement cycle, low price is not a high priority.

Does anyone know where to get a better deal on the GYZ20L? Is my battery analysis all screwed up?

Johnny S

 

[Art H.]

CCA is the amount of amps available for 30 seconds at 0 degrees. Reserve capacity is probably more important.

Not sure what the reserve capacity of those batteries are.

 

[INTHEWIND]

:click:

My apology if this has been covered before. My 2010 ABS came from the factory with a Yuasa GYZ20L even though the Honda parts lists show the Yuasa YTX20L-BS to be OEM. Yuasa's own cross reference chart shows the G series to be an upgrade over the Y series unit, but at the same time lists the Y battery at 270 CCA and the G battery at only 250 CCA. How is that an upgrade? However, the weight is 4.0 lbs. heavier for the G unit which is due to heavier plates, thus a more powerful and longer lasting battery according to Fred Harmon.

I'm reluctant to downgrade the battery in my bike even though I know a lighter battery will probably do the job adequately. (I'm running loads of accessories) The best price I've found on the GYZ20L is $89 through Amazon Prime. The YTX20L-BS can be purchased much cheaper, but at 7-8 year replacement cycle, low price is not a high priority.

Does anyone know where to get a better deal on the GYZ20L? Is my battery analysis all screwed up?

Johnny S

Get the GYZ20HL. Higher CCA's. Same size battery.


:click:
http://gl1800riders.com/forums/5-gl1800-tech-board/279426-new-battery-2.html




https://www.amazon.com/Yuasa-YUAM720GH-GYZ20HL-Battery/dp/B003RF5AWI

 

[Mr. Whiskey]

Get the GYZ20HL. Higher CCA's. Same size battery.

At's what I'm runnin'. Much better battery IMO.
Yuasa say's it wont fit, but jus' requires that little bend to the hot wire connector:thumbup:
http://www.yuasabatteries.com/battery.php?bID=B208&vID=7826

 

[Fred H.]

According to Yuasa's specs, the YTX-20 is an 18 amp hour battery, the GYZ is a 20 amp hour battery. Its got more overall capacity.

The GYZ-20H has 320 CCA. The GYZ-20L has 250. The H designation on the end is for Heavy Duty and all batteries with this letter at the end will have higher CCA numbers.

The YTX-20HL has 310 CCA and is comparable to the GYZ-20H

See the charts on page 4 and 8 of this Yuasa document.
http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/Yuasa_Application_Guide_2017.pdf

 

[GatorWing]

My apology if this has been covered before. My 2010 ABS came from the factory with a Yuasa GYZ20L even though the Honda parts lists show the Yuasa YTX20L-BS to be OEM. Yuasa's own cross reference chart shows the G series to be an upgrade over the Y series unit, but at the same time lists the Y battery at 270 CCA and the G battery at only 250 CCA. How is that an upgrade? However, the weight is 4.0 lbs. heavier for the G unit which is due to heavier plates, thus a more powerful and longer lasting battery according to Fred Harmon.

I'm reluctant to downgrade the battery in my bike even though I know a lighter battery will probably do the job adequately. (I'm running loads of accessories) The best price I've found on the GYZ20L is $89 through Amazon Prime. The YTX20L-BS can be purchased much cheaper, but at 7-8 year replacement cycle, low price is not a high priority.

Does anyone know where to get a better deal on the GYZ20L? Is my battery analysis all screwed up?

Johnny S

I would avoid the GYZ20L like the plague. True it reads a bit stronger but it is minimal. The problem is large dealers say they maybe sell 3 a year. The problem is they may have been stored for a long time in a warehouse and not charged enough to prevent the plates from sulfiding. I had 2 go below 50% in 4 months.
The YTX20L-BS is a better battery for me and I have lots of accessories including heated jackets for winter riding. The advantage with the YTX20L-BS is you get it without the electrolyte added and it will last forever. It can not sulfide until you add the electrolyte and that only happens to any battery not properly maintained.
Before you jump for the GYZ20L call a dealer or someone like Honda Directline. I will bet they will tell you they need to order it as there is a low demand for it. The YTX20-BS is usually in stock everywhere.
You will find the GYZ20L on Amazon but remember why it is always in stock there :22yikes:
I will never purchased a factory sealed battery as it history is always a mystery you can't find out :crying:
That is just my experience.

 

[Mr. Whiskey]

The YTX-20HL has 310 CCA and is comparable to the GYZ-20H

I might go with the YTX20HL-BS next time...
http://www.yuasabatteries.com/battery.php?bID=B173&vID=1042
I do prefer a bottle supplied electrolyte to factory activated:thumbup:

 

[Johnny S]

Right now I'm leaning toward the YTX20HL-BS for the simple reason I'll know when the battery was activated. Like Gator Wing said, there's no way to tell when the GYZ series was activated. I was going to discount that info till I read some reviews on Amazon's site and sure enough there were some complaining about premature failure from receiving old batteries that had been activated as long as 3 years before they received them. So I'm giving up 2 amp/hours to get that peace of mind.
So thanks everyone for their input...and when the end comes it probably won't have even mattered...lol!

Johnny S

 

[Fred H.]

I've never purchased a GYZ battery except for the one that came in the bike and I have yet to wear one out, so I can't speak to the quality of the replacement ones. Most of the time replacement batteries never last as long as the OEM ones do. So going with a YTX that you can activate yourself might make sense.

 

[Johnny S]

I've never purchased a GYZ battery except for the one that came in the bike and I have yet to wear one out, so I can't speak to the quality of the replacement ones. Most of the time replacement batteries never last as long as the OEM ones do. So going with a YTX that you can activate yourself might make sense.

Thanks Fred, good to have your endorsement. I take your word as gospel for almost everything.

J S

 

[2WheelNut]

Johnny...I think you made a good decision. Unless you are leaving the bike in ACC mode for long periods of time, the extra 2 amp hrs aren't going to matter even if you have a lot of accessories as the alternator should be putting out enough power to keep the battery fully charged. Assuming you only leave the bike in ACC mode for short periods, I'm guessing most of the time you'll use less than 5 of the amp hours on your 18 or 20 amp hr battery anyway.

 

[Zee Fifty]

I went to take my 2013 out to run an errand today and the battery gave it up. Click click click in my shop. I went down to my local accessory store and he had a Yuasa YTX20L-BS on the self for $90.99. So I took it and it's on the trickle charger now getting conditioned.

I just pulled my title and the first registration of my bike by the original owner was Oct. 2013..... I'll switch out the battery tomorrow. I'm not sure if it was factory charged or not or if it will have a date code on it.

So it looks like mine had a useful lifespan of 48 months.

 

[Johnny S]

I'm pretty sure the battery I'm replacing is the original in my '08...Chris E would know for sure since he bought it new...and it lasted 9 or 10 years. I'm guessing an '08 bike was probably assembled sometime in '07 but not sure if the battery was activated then. Either way, that's darn good service for a battery.

J S

 

[Bernie (PC)]

This was very informative. My F6B OEM battery is the yuasa GYZ20L and I left my LEDs on since Sunday, it's Saturday now. I was planning to ride to my GWRRA MD B chapter meet and found my dead battery. Trying to test the volts and amps but as on now on a charger, it won't start - click click u know.

Trying to pick a replacement now as my battery is 5 yrs old. Purchased bike n 2016 new in showroom at Atlantic Cycle n Power in LaPlata MD.