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Rear wheel removal

20K views 46 replies 31 participants last post by  Waldo  
#1 ·
On my 05 GL1800, I always have tough time to remove/install the rear wheel (just a regular Bridgestone G704)

_ Put the bike on center stand or motorcycle lift
_ Remove the license plate, rear fender and cross bar
_ Remove all 5 lug nuts
_ Here come the hard part: I try to wiggle the wheel out by pulling the tire to the left away from the lug bolts, but the tire get caught on the upper fender (near the voltage regulator or battery area) that prevent the wheel to go pass the lug bolts. I have to use lot of force to get the wheel off.
_ Putting the wheel back on is another nightmare: it's extremely hard to push the tire go pass the fender. At one point I almost dump the bike using the technique to put the wheel under and lower the bike on top of the the wheel after spraying a bunch of silicon on the fender itself and empty all air out of the tire. I finally get it in, but I know it shouldn't be that hard.

I saw some online video, and see it's a breeze to remove and install this rear wheel, but unfortunately, it's not my case.
Does it mean I have a bent frame that narrow the fender area?

Any thought would be appreciated.
Thanks.
 
#3 ·
Standard MC tire or CT? Some tires are a bit wider which I could see causing some issues but both my 2001 and my 2013 had / have plenty of clearance to drop the tire straight down so I don't know what is causing your issue.
 
#4 ·
This is just a Bridgestone G704 Motorcycle tire. This is my 3rd set of tires. I don't recall this clearance issue for the OEM Dunlop.
Does it mean the stone is wider.
Remove the air does not help. Motorcyle tire is hard as rock :)
 
#5 ·
This is just a Bridgestone G704 Motorcycle tire. This is my 3rd set of tires. I don't recall this clearance issue for the OEM Dunlop.
Does it mean the stone is wider.
Remove the air does not help. Motorcyle tire is hard as rock :)
Something must be off or out of place in your wheel well. G704 should just drop right out. I don't even recall it being tight in there.

Agree about air in or out...it's not going to change the width of that tire.
 
#6 ·
They can be a little snug sometimes.

Don't come straight out with it. Try pulling the bottom of the tire to the right as you come back with it. Kind of rotate the tire around the final drive.
 
#7 ·
I run a car tire and use the lay the bike over method. I have no problem getting a 195/16 past that area that you are having trouble with, and your tire is a 175/16. So I am thinking there is something wrong with the way things are assembled at the point of friction. Next time you have the wheel off, see if you can get a camera in there and post pictures. Someone will come along here and tell you if things need to change there. In the meantime, others have found slipping a plastic garbage bag into the space that causes friction will help you insert or remove the tire and wheel past the trouble spot.

David
 
#8 ·
I have a 2005 and have changed rear tires 3 times since I got it and never had any problems with it at all. I have used Bridgestone, Dunlop and now Metzler 888 series. Not sure what your problem is without looking at it in person and I imagine that isn't a choice at all. So good luck to you.

Big H
 
#9 ·
I use the laydown method.
Let me describe the way I do it.
-Set the bike on the side stand , with lots of room on the right side
-Put the bike in 1st gear, & place some cardboard where the crash bars will land.
-turn the handle bars all the way to the right.
-on the right side of the bike with my lower back against the seat, left hand on the right grip, right hand on the right passenger grip.
-Lower the bike onto the cardboard (try to use your knees )
-Now that the bike is down I put my right knee under the left rear crash bar and lift the bike so that I can pull down the side stand.
-then I loosen the lug nuts and pull the wheel out.

This method usually takes me about 5 minutes to RE & RE the rear wheel.
If you are having trouble pushing in the wheel during assembly then use the darkside trick of putting a plastic garbage bag over the tire and it will slip right in.
I hope that this helps you.
Paul
 
#11 ·
I have a large diameter car tire on my Wing and it was tight getting it on. I sprayed the side of the tire where it was causing the problem with silicon spray, and it slipped right in. It won't go on an off like a car or truck wheel, it has to be angled into or out of position. The amplifier gets in the way a bit.
 
#12 ·
I use the laydown method.
Let me describe the way I do it.
-Set the bike on the side stand , with lots of room on the right side
-Put the bike in 1st gear, & place some cardboard where the crash bars will land.
-turn the handle bars all the way to the right.
-on the right side of the bike with my lower back against the seat, left hand on the right grip, right hand on the right passenger grip.
-Lower the bike onto the cardboard (try to use your knees )
-Now that the bike is down I put my right knee under the left rear crash bar and lift the bike so that I can pull down the side stand.
-then I loosen the lug nuts and pull the wheel out.

This method usually takes me about 5 minutes to RE & RE the rear wheel.
If you are having trouble pushing in the wheel during assembly then use the darkside trick of putting a plastic garbage bag over the tire and it will slip right in.
I hope that this helps you.
Paul
:thumbup: what he said
 
#15 ·
Raising the rear suspension all the way up helps also.
That should not be true, the swing arm will be all the way down, even at the "0" preload setting, already when there is no load on it. If yours does hang-up with preload reduced, then swing arm bearings are probably damaged.

I do it sort of like Proso does, but I slightly loosen the lugs before I lay the bike over onto furniture pads. Car tires and OE size moto tires just about jump back on. Be careful spraying lube spray around your brake rotor and pads.

prs
 
#16 ·
:idea:
No matter how you remove or install a rear wheel, here is how I protect the tire and rim from getting scratched or getting hung up.
I purchased 5 rubber vacuum caps from an auto store. I don't remember the size but will guess 5/8" :shrug:.
I shorten them to about half their original length with a single edge razor blade. I slip them over the lugs and wet them with my finger using silicon spray (Liquid soap may almost work as well :shrug:).
I can then remove or install the wheel without hang-ups, scratching the rim or bruising the tire :thumbup:.
 
#17 ·
I never tried the lay over method, and won't, but if you have a good lift like a Pitbull or J&S simply jack up the motorcycle, pull the tire out the bottom. So easy it doesn't even involve swearing. One of the best things I ever invested in was the Pitbull.
 
#18 ·
I use pitbull lift so no need to remove rear center fender, but yes it is a rather snug fit removing or reinstalling the tire, I usually remove the valve core to let the air out, it doesn't make the tire much smaller but every little bit seems to help.:thumbup:
 
#19 ·
On my 05 GL1800, I always have tough time to remove/install the rear wheel (just a regular Bridgestone G704)

_ Put the bike on center stand or motorcycle lift
_ Remove the license plate, rear fender and cross bar
_ Remove all 5 lug nuts
_ Here come the hard part: I try to wiggle the wheel out by pulling the tire to the left away from the lug bolts, but the tire get caught on the upper fender
(near the voltage regulator or battery area) that prevent the wheel to go pass the lug bolts. I have to use lot of force to get the wheel off.
_ Putting the wheel back on is another nightmare: it's extremely hard to push the tire go pass the fender. At one point I almost dump the bike using the technique to put the wheel under and lower the bike on top of the the wheel after spraying a bunch of silicon on the fender itself and empty all air out of the tire. I finally get it in, but I know it shouldn't be that hard.

I saw some online video, and see it's a breeze to remove and install this rear wheel, but unfortunately, it's not my case.
Does it mean I have a bent frame that narrow the fender area?

Any thought would be appreciated.
Thanks.
If I'm reading this correctly, your trying to pull the tire out the back which as you have found is very hard to do. Pull the tire straight down and out by either laying the bike on its side, or having a 2x4 under the center stand to give it more height.
 
#20 ·
I never tried the lay over method, and won't, but if you have a good lift like a Pitbull or J&S simply jack up the motorcycle, pull the tire out the bottom. So easy it doesn't even involve swearing. One of the best things I ever invested in was the Pitbull.
I have the J&S Jack but once one has ever done the "lay down" method, you won't do it another way. Doesn't do ANY harm to the bike at all and is just so easy. Just a little padding under the crash bars on the right side and you won't get any scratches at all. The tire slips right end and no if ting needed. Some claim it helps to put a plastic bag over the tire or spray silicone on tire to help it slide in..... I run a car tire and have never had any issue sliding it in fairly easily. Little bit of a pain to get the Centramatic slipped in but that isn't too bad either really. I can understand why some don't like the idea of gently laying the bike over on its side on top of padding and to each their own, but absolutely no harm, you get to practice picking it back up (which isn't hard either), and it's quick and easy.
 
#21 ·
Lift bike up to 25" on air powered Pitbull Dyna lift:arrow:
Image

Remove lug nuts.
Lower wheel down with Sears Aluminum Jack.
About 15 minutes on or off :bow:.
 
#22 ·
Thanks very much for all replies.
Very helpful ideas.
I never try the lay down method, but I couldn't imaging the clearance would be better with the bike laying down.
Also my bike have the Centramatic, but it's very flat and it couldn't contribute to the clearance issue.
I have the Pitbull lift, but I find it's easier to use the center stand.
If nobody have the problem, then I think my fender may be bent or out of shape.
Next time I will take a closeup pictures in the wheel well when I remove the wheel.
Thanks all for your help.
 
#24 ·
Thanks very much for all replies.
Very helpful ideas.
I never try the lay down method, but I couldn't imaging the clearance would be better with the bike laying down.
Also my bike have the Centramatic, but it's very flat and it couldn't contribute to the clearance issue.
I have the Pitbull lift, but I find it's easier to use the center stand.
If nobody have the problem, then I think my fender may be bent or out of shape.
Next time I will take a closeup pictures in the wheel well when I remove the wheel.
Thanks all for your help.
I also have Centramatic, if your Centramatic is flat then I think that you have it on the wrong way.
The tube should face the wheel.
 
#25 ·
If I'm reading this correctly, your trying to pull the tire out the back which as you have found is very hard to do. Pull the tire straight down and out by either laying the bike on its side, or having a 2x4 under the center stand to give it more height.
I do believe you nailed what his problem is. I have NEVER removed a rear tire out the back. If the wheel is dropped STRAIGHT DOWN it will literally fall right out. At first I thought maybe he had something bent, but after re-reading I realized what he was trying to do. I'm sure there is noting wrong with the bike.
 
#26 ·
If my 05' is on the lift, all I have ever done is remove the Lug Nuts, and drop it straight down.

Only time I ever removed the rear panel & Hitch, was in a Motel Parking lot once, because I couldn't get it high enough to drop it straight down.