Silicone can be a really good adhesive. Maybe too good for that. I think I'd opt for the next size larger screw. Sometimes just a little longer one will get you down into good threads.

 

I would first try to re-tap the threads! If not possible due to damage, I would just use RTV sealant, sparingly. I would'nt drill and tap to a larger size, the RTV will seal enough with the other screws being tightened "finger tight.

 

I would remove the bottom of the air box and fix it properly. Anything less, and you'll just be making more work for yourself, and you'll end up having to come back and fix it right in the end anyway. Under NO circumstances would I attempt to put any kind of adhesive or sealant on it.

I don't remember for sure, but I think there are nuts in the bottom side of the airbox that those captive screws thread into. You might be able to just replace the nuts and/or screws, whichever have the damaged threads on them (probably both). I haven't checked the price of a new air box bottom, but it may be easier to just replace it with a new one if it isn't too costly.

 

I just checked on Ron Ayers for the prices.

These are for a 2002
17221-MCA-003 COVER, AIR CLEANER (Lid) $19.04

17231-MCA-003 HOUSING, AIR CLEANER (Bottom) $25.28

Looks to me like both parts are pretty cheap.

You may be able to go to a hardware store and locate hardware to replace the damaged fasteners. If you can't find what you need, then I'd figure out which one needs to be replaced and order replacement parts.

You will however need to remove the gas tank to get the airbox out of the bike. I don't know of a way around this. Might be a good time to do some other maintenance, like servicing/replacing rear shock etc.

Air box removal and re installation is covered on disc #4 of my videos. I'd suggest you watch it so you have an idea what all is involved in getting it out before you start.

 

The threads strip from improper starting and tightening of the screws. Once the threads are stripped, it is best to just replace the lower air box.

 

Thank you all for your replies.

 

You need the right tool for the right job.

I use this when guys strip out screws in plastic,and for making new side cover pins. http://plastex.net/
It comes in white/black/clear when cured.It is as hard as your wedding night in 10 minutes and can be drilled/sanded/molded. You can mold it to any shape imaginable with the molding clay in it's kit.So it's use is endless.
It will stick to glass!!

For the work involved in removing the lower portion of the airbox,I'd get this kit first.
Read the site and watch the "How to Video"


I tell people time and time again.Insert the screw into the part and reverse the screw driver until you feel the screw drop into a notch,(it just found the start of the threads) then screw the screw in and just "Snug" it down,don't over tighten it or you will pull out the threads!!

 

UPDATED

I had the same problem and ended up replacing the lower part of the airbox. I guess Honda realized the design problem because the current wing has a totally different setup with metal inserts on the bottom and uses machine bolts on the top – not the self-tapping screws used on mine. I ended up using the new setup but you will have to do some work on the top to use different bolts.

You might think you can just buy the new top that matches the redesigned bottom (I tried) but they have moved the hole where the IAT (intake air temp sensor) goes and it will no longer fit under the ECM.

 

04

HOUSING, AIR CLEANER 17231-MCA-003 - 001 $33.31 $25.65

001

$33.31

$25.65

 

UPDADED
I guess Honda realized the design problem because the current wing has a totally different setup with metal inserts on the bottom and uses machine bolts on the top – not the self-tapping screws used on mine.

I guess the first thing to do would be to determine which version he has. It's been a long time since I worked on an 02, and I was thinking you had metal threads in the bottom half. All the bikes I've had recently have machine screws that thread into nuts on the bottom side.

If the lower threads are indeed plastic, then a repair using some sort of adhesive in the thread holes might be a viable option. But if they are metal nuts on the bottom side then you're probably going to have to remove the bottom portion of the air box and either re-thread them or replace the hardware or the air box bottom.

The good news is that the air box bottom is fairly inexpensive, and if you already have the top shelter off, pulling the gas tank isn't much more work.

 

Putting goop on things results in ...........goop......goop never works .Lol! You always end up fixing it right later. Trying to fix threads with miracle products in a squeeze tube never works either. There is not enough surface area on worn thread to hold the material and it does not bond well as you cannot clean it well and on something you need to access again......then a release agent on the male fastener is required.......does not work well.

You can drill and install metal inserts.....but still you have to remove the lower air box to the bench to do that, and time you do this and buy the inserts and all the things to go with it.....a new lower airbox is cheaper and to do any constructive work on the airbox it has to come out of the bike anyway.

So a new airbox is the way to go.

Kit

 

Kit.in most cases you may be right.But not this one.(Don't knock it until you tried it-lol)

I have personally used Plastex and wouldn't recommend it unless it worked as claimed.
I have repaired may screw holes that owners have pulled the plastic threads out of the hole.

Only I add liquid,then a tad of powder then more liquid to layer the hole to the top.Takes a minute per hole.
I can then drill a small hole and screw the screw in and it's a permanent repair in 10 minutes curing time.

It's a very strong repair and saves lots of time,Instead of taking out fuel tank.The bottom air box which is a royal PITA..Because you now have to re-route the clear drain hose back to where it belongs under the left bottom valve cover!

Yeah the bottom air box is cheap,but at a labor cost to remove/install a new one,When a repair can be done in less than 15 minutes in the bike and is now stronger that the rest of the air box..:thumbup:

 

If it is the plastic version, which I'm sure it is, then get a soldering iron and some wire tires and melt some of the wire tie into the hole leaving a hole a little smaller than the screw. When it cools re-thread the screws into it.

 

Kit.in most cases you may be right.But not this one.(Don't knock it until you tried it-lol)

I have personally used Plastex and wouldn't recommend it unless it worked as claimed.
I have repaired may screw holes that owners have pulled the plastic threads out of the hole.

Only I add liquid,then a tad of powder then more liquid to layer the hole to the top.Takes a minute per hole.
I can then drill a small hole and screw the screw in and it's a permanent repair in 10 minutes curing time.

It's a very strong repair and saves lots of time,Instead of taking out fuel tank.The bottom air box which is a royal PITA..Because you now have to re-route the clear drain hose back to where it belongs under the left bottom valve cover!

Yeah the bottom air box is cheap,but at a labor cost to remove/install a new one,When a repair can be done in less than 15 minutes in the bike and is now stronger that the rest of the air box..:thumbup:

I'll agree with Rocky on this one - Used it to repair a plastic hinge on my gas trimmer that was no longer available - Also worked great on my wife’s refrigerator shelf .

 

If it is the plastic version, which I'm sure it is, then get a soldering iron and some wire tires and melt some of the wire tie into the hole leaving a hole a little smaller than the screw. When it cools re-thread the screws into it.

Good Idea for flat surfaces.
But trying this on a hole of any depth will leave an air bubble in the middle,seeing the hole is so narrow to begin with.You'd want the hole to be filled ,not just the surface..

 

Putting goop on things results in ...........goop......goop never works .Lol! You always end up fixing it right later. Trying to fix threads with miracle products in a squeeze tube never works either. There is not enough surface area on worn thread to hold the material and it does not bond well as you cannot clean it well and on something you need to access again......then a release agent on the male fastener is required.......does not work well.

You can drill and install metal inserts.....but still you have to remove the lower air box to the bench to do that, and time you do this and buy the inserts and all the things to go with it.....a new lower airbox is cheaper and to do any constructive work on the airbox it has to come out of the bike anyway.

So a new airbox is the way to go.

Kit

I agree with you ... glueing, plugging, and patching in most cases is a waist of time. I always have to look at it more from a professional point of view and can think of no one who would want to pay my labor charges to remove the lower housing and glue it as being recommended. In my case, I have to be accountable for the repair and would never want it to come back because the threads did not hold. I might feel different if Honda was a manufacture that wanted an unresonable amount for OEM replacement parts ... but they are not like that and the part is still available. So, even on my bike, where I have no labor charges, I still would repair it by replacing the housing. Repairing it correctly with a new part is, for me, affordable.

 

Kit.in most cases you may be right.But not this one.(Don't knock it until you tried it-lol)

I have personally used Plastex and wouldn't recommend it unless it worked as claimed.
I have repaired may screw holes that owners have pulled the plastic threads out of the hole.

Only I add liquid,then a tad of powder then more liquid to layer the hole to the top.Takes a minute per hole.
I can then drill a small hole and screw the screw in and it's a permanent repair in 10 minutes curing time.

It's a very strong repair and saves lots of time,Instead of taking out fuel tank.The bottom air box which is a royal PITA..Because you now have to re-route the clear drain hose back to where it belongs under the left bottom valve cover!

Yeah the bottom air box is cheap,but at a labor cost to remove/install a new one,When a repair can be done in less than 15 minutes in the bike and is now stronger that the rest of the air box..:thumbup:

Ok...but.....but.......but......lol! What about getting the screw back out for the next service. Will the cap screws come out or are they glued in .

I am all for easy, and will listen to my elders.

Kit

 

Ok...but.....but.......but......lol! What about getting the screw back out for the next service. Will the cap screws come out or are they glued in .

I am all for easy, and will listen to my elders.

Kit

Kit.Now you know why I do it my way.Fill the hole first in layers.Once it's cured and solid.I then drill a pilot hole for the screw.I then test fit the screw.If all is good? then the parts go back together.
My way there is never any residue on the screw itself.Clean and simple yet a solid repair that lasts.


You should be a test kit and try it out for the hell of it on scrap plastic.Only then will you see what I see.:thumbup:

 

Good Idea for flat surfaces.
But trying this on a hole of any depth will leave an air bubble in the middle,seeing the hole is so narrow to begin with.You'd want the hole to be filled ,not just the surface..

It works. You just need something there for the screw to bite into.

 

Kit.Now you know why I do it my way.Fill the hole first in layers.Once it's cured and solid.I then drill a pilot hole for the screw.I then test fit the screw.If all is good? then the parts go back together.
My way there is never any residue on the screw itself.Clean and simple yet a solid repair that lasts.


You should be a test kit and try it out for the hell of it on scrap plastic.Only then will you see what I see.:thumbup:

I should have added another.......but....but........cool, understood. And agreed. I have some soft plastic rod I use in plastic , it is designed to weld that orange plastic gas line together with you see sometimes. It melts with a specialty heat gun at low temp and changes chemically when it sets.......have used that in plastic....so a quality liquid plastic that sets up.....in plastic....agreed.

But...what about in the metal threads, some of the air boxes have nuts under the seal area of the lid, to the outside set in plastic...some have metal pressed in inserts. The metal receptor is that that holds the fastener.......right? Or am I eating a stupid pill again. I do sometimes. .......Oh never mind, and I will leave it posted, I did eat a stupid pill, I get it, light bulb came on....fill the part that is not threaded, drill the pilot hole and test fit the fastener, then put it together.....OK Got it. Lol! For sure better than silicone, put that around the air filter and come time to get it out, you might have to take it out in pieces......light bulb finally came on.


Kit

 

I agree with you ... glueing, plugging, and patching in most cases is a waist of time. I always have to look at it more from a professional point of view and can think of no one who would want to pay my labor charges to remove the lower housing and glue it as being recommended. In my case, I have to be accountable for the repair and would never want it to come back because the threads did not hold. I might feel different if Honda was a manufacture that wanted an unresonable amount for OEM replacement parts ... but they are not like that and the part is still available. So, even on my bike, where I have no labor charges, I still would repair it by replacing the housing. Repairing it correctly with a new part is, for me, affordable.

I agree , and for sure for another in a professional way stay professional. I am the same with my bike and my work.

But at home if the toilet breaks.....hey tie a shoestring to it, will fix it later.......later is sometimes six month later.

If the plastic repair will work and I do not doubt Rocky, it would be a very good alternative to tearing half the bike apart.

To some changing the air filter is a daunting task, let alone taking out the tank and getting to the lower part of the box. So a quality repair on the bike in the bike with a towel stuffed into the airbox to keep trash out..while working, sounds good......for the owner himself.

On a professional level.....no, change the airbox.....if not it will come back to haunt you.

I will not even remove screws and such from wind wings and the shelter if I do not know the person real well, I stand there and tell them how to do it. Once they get that far I will take over. A lot of shelter fasteners are stripped out by those who think if tight is good, tighter is better.....then they say......you did it......yea so you do it.

Kit

 

Replace it. Air cleaner integrity is too important. You don't want dirl bypassing the filter because of a loose screw. My opinion, not fact.

 

Since the part is relatively inexpensive and since Honda tends to raise such prices dramatically after a few years, then I would opt for a new part while the getting is good. But the "goop" Rocky adivses is an interesting alternative. The zip tie as plastic solder seems workable as the part may well be nylon.

Rocky's thread starting adivce should be taught in kindergarten. It sure would save lots of threads, especially the fine spring loaded ones like fork caps. Turn them backward until your feel or hear the click of the threads mating, then gently forward.

prs

 

I agree , and for sure for another in a professional way stay professional. I am the same with my bike and my work.

But at home if the toilet breaks.....hey tie a shoestring to it, will fix it later.......later is sometimes six month later.

If the plastic repair will work and I do not doubt Rocky, it would be a very good alternative to tearing half the bike apart.

To some changing the air filter is a daunting task, let alone taking out the tank and getting to the lower part of the box. So a quality repair on the bike in the bike with a towel stuffed into the airbox to keep trash out..while working, sounds good......for the owner himself.

On a professional level.....no, change the airbox.....if not it will come back to haunt you.

I will not even remove screws and such from wind wings and the shelter if I do not know the person real well, I stand there and tell them how to do it. Once they get that far I will take over. A lot of shelter fasteners are stripped out by those who think if tight is good, tighter is better.....then they say......you did it......yea so you do it.

Kit

Kit.Remember we are talking about a 2002 bike that has NO metal inserts.(at least that is what it says in his sig picture) They are just plastic!.

Now if you have the later model air box with steel nut inserts,Then I wouldn't waste my time to try and save it if a nut got cross threaded or was turning in it's boss?? . I'd just order a new one and be done with it..:thumbup:

 

Kit.Remember we are talking about a 2002 bike that has NO metal inserts.(at least that is what it says in his sig picture)

Interesting Rocky, my 02 has the metal inserts... far as I know no has ever replaced the air box. Maybe they changed suppliers mid year.....