[spork]

This thread is another good example of why I would never buy a used Wing. If a Wing rider can't spend a few extra $ to use an approved oil then maybe they should try a bicycle instead.

Eh, this is more of a minority of people (unlike KLR circles), and even then, I think that the honda engine will be just fine as long as you add the recommended amount, and change when needed. Engines don't go kaboom because you used T6 instead of GN4. There's a youtube channel called Project Farm or something where dude runs small engines on bacon fat and then takes them apart for inspection, and (surprise) there is no extra wear on critical parts, and arguably better operating temperatures than conventional oil.

Anyway, I'm fairly confident that GWs will run 100k on pretty much anything that lubes which meets spec, the engineering is really that good.

 

[Big_Bear]

Eh, this is more of a minority of people (unlike KLR circles), and even then, I think that the honda engine will be just fine as long as you add the recommended amount, and change when needed. Engines don't go kaboom because you used T6 instead of GN4. There's a youtube channel called Project Farm or something where dude runs small engines on bacon fat and then takes them apart for inspection, and (surprise) there is no extra wear on critical parts, and arguably better operating temperatures than conventional oil.

Anyway, I'm fairly confident that GWs will run 100k on pretty much anything that lubes which meets spec, the engineering is really that good.

I'm not that easily fooled by youtube videos. Try running bacon fat at 70 mph and tell me how many miles you get before you seize a bearing. Lower operating temps, no extra wear? Hogwash!

I'm also certain a Wing can easily go 100k on any oil that "MEETS SPEC" and T6 doesn't meet spec.

 

[Big H]

I'm not that easily fooled by youtube videos. Try running bacon fat at 70 mph and tell me how many miles you get before you seize a bearing. Lower operating temps, no extra wear? Hogwash!

I'm also certain a Wing can easily go 100k on any oil that "MEETS SPEC" and T6 doesn't meet spec.

I'm not sure why you say that T6 doesn't meet the "specs" for the wing. Both T6 5w40 and T6 15w40 both have printed information stating that they are both JASO MA/MA2 rated and both full synthetic. And that does meet our specs. I don't use it, but just wanted to clarify things up a little.

Big H

 

[Big H]

Why do we always have to get into a "pissing" contest when we have discussions about oil. Do any of us do the same thing when it comes to our automobiles or trucks we drive everyday? I don't for sure. And I'm pretty sure none of you do it either. You use the recommended oil that is listed for your car and choose your brand and go with it. You don't get into forums about it, so why do it with the wing? Just use super quality oil that meets JASO MA/MA2 and get out and ride the thing instead of spending time on here debating what oil to use. Can I get an Amen!

Big H

 

[remoandiris]

I have even read posts where someone was inquiring about the possibility of using ATF for his forks instead of using genuine fork oil. Why? Maybe save a few bucks?

There are some bikes that use ATF instead of fork oil in their forks. The GL1500 is one example. At least my 1988 GL15 did. Not sure about later years.

 

[Doc832]

Well the first thing that gets removed is the Catalytic converter. So no worries here. Big engines don't need any more restrictions. We need Power and gas mileage.


https://rotella.shell.com › ... › Full Synthetic & Synthetic Blend Motor Oil
Strong Performance in Both Diesel and Gasoline Engines. Blended with lower levels of phosphorous compared to most diesel engine oils, Shell Rotella® T6 Multi-Vehicle 5W-30 is able to meet both API CK-4 and SN performance standards. Quoted from their site and advertisement.

 

[-Hairball-]

Well the first thing that gets removed is the Catalytic converter.

https://rotella.shell.com › ... › Full Synthetic & Synthetic Blend Motor Oil
Strong Performance in Both Diesel and Gasoline Engines. Blended with lower levels of phosphorous compared to most diesel engine oils, Shell Rotella® T6 Multi-Vehicle 5W-30 is able to meet both API CK-4 and SN performance standards. Quoted from their site and advertisement.

While the product you posted does cover an SN rating for use in trucks and cars, T6 multi-Vehicle oil has no JASO rating for use in motorcycles. It's also listing as an energy saving oil which the owners manual directs you to not use in the bike. But again, your bike and your choice...

https://shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en-US/c8878a7f-be48-4555-a194-6c2b8a3ed1dc.pdf

 

[bigbird1]

I'm not sure why you say that T6 doesn't meet the "specs" for the wing. Both T6 5w40 and T6 15w40 both have printed information stating that they are both JASO MA/MA2 rated and both full synthetic. And that does meet our specs.

The JASO MA/MA2 rating is only a rating for the compatibility of the oil with a wet clutch.
It has no bearing on whether the oil is suitable for a motorcycle ENGINE, only on the suitability of the oil to a motorcycle wet clutch.
A few posters have suggested that T6 is the same old formula as it's always been, and that Shell dropped the gasoline compatibility due to their wanting to not have to spend (read waste) their money to get the gasoline engine rating.
From what I've read over the last several years, from the BITOG forum to quotes and snippets directly from Shell posted on various motorcycle forums, Shell did indeed change the Rotella T6 formula.
They changed (lowered) the amount of ZDDP (Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) in T6 to make their new formula compliant with the demands of the catalysts on diesel engines.
That loss of ZDDP, which is an anti-wear agent, is apparently to blame for the dropping of the gasoline engine rating of T6 5W-40.
Motorcycle engines are notorious for requiring more anti-wear agents than are automobile gasoline engines.
The high rpm stress of motorcycle engines combined with their high load valve trains necessitates the higher level of ZDDP.
So, for those who are saying T6 is still T6, do a little investigating.
As for me, I tried T6 5W-40 on the 2nd oil change back in 2014, before the change in formula.
I decided to never use it again in my engine after only 2k km.
My transmission started to shift more noisily and clunky once the oil started to shear.
I now only run non synthetic motorcycle oil, JASO MA rated of course.
I go with house brand (Motomaster) from Canadian Tire, 4 stroke 10W-40 motorcycle engine oil.
It's inexpensive (under $6 quart) easy to find, and does the job.
My trans does not clunk and shifts with the click-click smoothness of new oil.
I've used GN4, which also shifts quietly, but is crazy expensive compared to the Canadian Tire stuff.
I've also tried Amsoil full synthetic, but didn't like the clutch operation with the synthetic oil.
Clutch engagement and take up was not as smooth as with a non-synthetic.

Don't put T6 5W-40 up on a pedestal without really researching it.

 

[Bubster25]

Thanks for all the input guys.
I guess I will go with the HP oil.
Eric

 

[spork]

Why do we always have to get into a "pissing" contest when we have discussions about oil. Do any of us do the same thing when it comes to our automobiles or trucks we drive everyday? I don't for sure. And I'm pretty sure none of you do it either. You use the recommended oil that is listed for your car and choose your brand and go with it. You don't get into forums about it, so why do it with the wing? Just use super quality oil that meets JASO MA/MA2 and get out and ride the thing instead of spending time on here debating what oil to use. Can I get an Amen!

Big H

For my kia the recommended is 5w30 regular oil, but since it is a turbo, I always get synthetic due to the extra wear the turbo puts on the oil.

 

[Big H]

There are some bikes that use ATF instead of fork oil in their forks. The GL1500 is one example. At least my 1988 GL15 did. Not sure about later years.

Well this was person with a GL1800. He thought since it looked the same, that he could use it and save money. That's why I said what i said. I don't know about GL1500 models.

Big H

 

[Big H]

The JASO MA/MA2 rating is only a rating for the compatibility of the oil with a wet clutch.
It has no bearing on whether the oil is suitable for a motorcycle ENGINE, only on the suitability of the oil to a motorcycle wet clutch.
A few posters have suggested that T6 is the same old formula as it's always been, and that Shell dropped the gasoline compatibility due to their wanting to not have to spend (read waste) their money to get the gasoline engine rating.
From what I've read over the last several years, from the BITOG forum to quotes and snippets directly from Shell posted on various motorcycle forums, Shell did indeed change the Rotella T6 formula.
They changed (lowered) the amount of ZDDP (Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) in T6 to make their new formula compliant with the demands of the catalysts on diesel engines.
That loss of ZDDP, which is an anti-wear agent, is apparently to blame for the dropping of the gasoline engine rating of T6 5W-40.
Motorcycle engines are notorious for requiring more anti-wear agents than are automobile gasoline engines.
The high rpm stress of motorcycle engines combined with their high load valve trains necessitates the higher level of ZDDP.
So, for those who are saying T6 is still T6, do a little investigating.
As for me, I tried T6 5W-40 on the 2nd oil change back in 2014, before the change in formula.
I decided to never use it again in my engine after only 2k km.
My transmission started to shift more noisily and clunky once the oil started to shear.
I now only run non synthetic motorcycle oil, JASO MA rated of course.
I go with house brand (Motomaster) from Canadian Tire, 4 stroke 10W-40 motorcycle engine oil.
It's inexpensive (under $6 quart) easy to find, and does the job.
My trans does not clunk and shifts with the click-click smoothness of new oil.
I've used GN4, which also shifts quietly, but is crazy expensive compared to the Canadian Tire stuff.
I've also tried Amsoil full synthetic, but didn't like the clutch operation with the synthetic oil.
Clutch engagement and take up was not as smooth as with a non-synthetic.

Don't put T6 5W-40 up on a pedestal without really researching it.

Definitely was not trying to put it on any pedestal. I don't use the stuff. I use the right oil in my DCT. I don't care what anyone else on here uses. I could care less. If the T6 5w40 doesn't meet our specs, then sorry. I only meant to say that it was JASO MA/MA2 rated and that's what I look for in any motorcycle oil. Keyword, being motorcycle.

Big H

 

[Big H]

For my kia the recommended is 5w30 regular oil, but since it is a turbo, I always get synthetic due to the extra wear the turbo puts on the oil.

Ok......

Big H

 

[bigbird1]

Definitely was not trying to put it on any pedestal. I don't use the stuff. I use the right oil in my DCT. I don't care what anyone else on here uses. I could care less. If the T6 5w40 doesn't meet our specs, then sorry. I only meant to say that it was JASO MA/MA2 rated and that's what I look for in any motorcycle oil. Keyword, being motorcycle.

Big H

I wasn't aiming the pedestal thing at you, Big H.
It was directed at those who think T6 should be considered a viable and acceptable oil to use in a Goldwing, based on their observation that since it is JASO MA rated, it has to be acceptable.

 

[OnTheFence]

Oil analysis show T6 to be substantially similar to honda GN4 in additives and ZDDP.

T6 shears into a 30 weight over 10k miles. GN4 probably shears out if grade as well. I am guessing Honda knows that and isn’t too concerned.

What would be the point for shell to get an SJ rating on their oil. Pretty much nothing on the road today besides motorcycles use that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Big H]

I wasn't aiming the pedestal thing at you, Big H.
It was directed at those who think T6 should be considered a viable and acceptable oil to use in a Goldwing, based on their observation that since it is JASO MA rated, it has to be acceptable.

Ok. It sure seemed like you where especially since you used my quote. Thanks for clarifying things. I sure don't want to "ruffle" the feathers on Big Bird. LOL.

Big H